I didn't drop it....I swear. It worked about 6hrs earlier than when I realized it wasn't working. I only wanted to check the voltage on my 10440. It read 4.01v so I put it back and twisted it on, but nothing! I tried cleaning things up but still nothing.
I also searched the web on how to remove the pill but it seems to be glued in place. Is this true?
Anyone try to remove their A3's pill?
This sucks. I was hoping for ARC AAA reliability. It's only been 6 months.
The pill is glued and cant be removed without destroying the head. I think these have a 1 year warranty. Contact the distributor where you got it for a replacement but dont tell them that you used 10440's. Let us know how things go for you.
Mine is working good for more than a year now. I only use AAA's with it though. 10440 can be used on a XR-E led AAA light without much problem but they sometimes can fry the circuit in a XP-G light. Not instantly but much quicker. I think low forward voltage of XP-Gs stress drivers too much under Li-ION powers.
if it's built like the A1, removing the pill is going to be hard. old4570 posted a how-to thread here. i used a slightly different procedure which involved heating the head on a frying pan over a stove on low heat. i think i used less heat than old, but the led on my A1 still didn't survive.
I bought three iTP A3's with the XP-E LED. All three of them died in three months. I sent them all back and received three more. They all died within the next three months. I have been sent the XP-G R5 as a replacement now (which I don't like because R5s have the most horrible color and CRI) and it seems to be doing well. If these fail, I guess I will have to bite the bullet and get a 4Sevens Preon Revo.
I bought two , an A3 and an A2 from Shiningbeam for a couple of friends . One of them is a mechanic , the other in construction . Those lights got used . And then died . I sent then back to Shiningbeam and they were replaced for free .
My friends said they would try not to beat on their lights as much .
All of the others I bought are still working just fine .
have ordered a titanium (twice as expensive as the aluminum). as long as i like the tint and the light doesnt die on me within the next few years, i'll be happy with the purchase (XP-G R5). the Titanium is still being sold with XP-E Q5, XP-G R5, and even XP-G S2 emitters.
threads are said to be gritty with (any kind of) titanium light, so i need to check on that too.
will run Unprotected 10440's in it most of the time (in Low and Medium mode) since Protected 10440's are said not to fit.
Hearing so many reports of dying A3's, maybe my main concern should be that it doesnt die at all. i dont think that my dealer could be helpful within the first 2.0 years of Olight warranty term because it's an ebay purchase and Titanium's are limited in supply.
i dont even know if the Titanium's are still being produced .. since Olight produces the i3.
fish....nice to see that you got good customer support with your a3.
for those who's still experiencing a3 failure here's my post in another thread here and hope it helps.
i think i know what ails our lights. i noticed that when not fully tightened (off position) the light still tends to activate momentarily when a slight downward force is applied to the head. i noticed this a couple of times so i suspect that inside my pants pockets it could have happened more times. especially if your wearing jeans.this seems to have an effect on the contacts inside the light such that even when fully tightened the contact dont seem to connect to each other.
what i do is to give it a gentle tap on the head (or sides of it) and presto.... it lights up! i have done this ever since and the light activates. so its a twist and tap routine now.:)
so to avoid this i suggest to make a extra turn or two when you loosen the head to switch off the light to prevent unwanted downward pressure on the head when in your pants.