Just ordered my first light (plus three more…)

Wasp · July 13, 2026, 9:18am

Hello everyone. A week ago I wasn’t really aware of the flashlight enthusiast community. Now I have four of what I hope are cheap-but-nice lights on order, thanks partly to this forum!

Context:

My adolescent “nice” light was a Mini Maglite LED, back when LEDs were still novel. Well used for Scouts/camping/recreation and amateur theatre. I still have it but it was left with alkaline cells for some years and so is unsurprisingly not functional. I really like the form factor and build quality but know they are not “good” by modern standards.

My other light of note, that triggered my rapid descent into the flashlight rabbit hole, is an original model Petzl Zipka which is still in regular use but showing signs of age, with cracks appearing in the now brittle plastic case. I love the automatic retracting headband. It’s extremely convenient for storage, and rapidly changing to different users and uses (e.g. fastening to a wrist or pole) without having to manually adjust the size. I wanted a direct replacement and was sad to find the Zipka range discontinued and no obvious direct alternatives (possibly due to a Petzl patent).

While I was looking for a Zipka replacement I discovered this community and found the priorities for my next light rapidly changing…

I live a sheltered urban life and am good with my phone for EDC. My original requirement was a compact and lightweight headtorch for occasional light recreation - family camping etc.

Lights I settled on:

Manker E03h iii 519A 4000K - seems like a great compromise between size and performance and I like that it can use standard AA as spares.
Manker E02 iii 519A 4000K - because I couldn’t resist the cute smaller version of the E03h…
Sofirn HS10 4000K - for the compact size and stepless dimming. The less common cell size put me off but I ultimately couldn’t talk myself out of ordering, especially considering the low price.
Convoy T6 SFT40 5000K - a compact thrower to complement the headtorches - with the same cell compatibility as the E03h for ease of logistics when packing spares.

And the total combined cost is less than some more premium lights so it’s fine, right?

I was also tempted by the Wurkkos HD12, which seems somewhat similar to the E03h and has red emitters and an onboard charger, but no warm white option and perhaps a less good driver.

Would anyone like to reassure me on my choices while I await their delivery - or else prompt me to reevaluate my priorities?

raccoon · July 13, 2026, 9:59am

Thanks for signing up, Wasp!

gravelmonkey · July 13, 2026, 10:04am

Welcome to the forum.

Not bad choices, I try to live by the rule of not purchasing more lights until the ones on order show up!

Once they arrive, use them a bit and decide what you like and don’t like about each. You’ve 2 lights with 519A in 4000K and the SFT in 5000K so should be able to compare which CCT you prefer.

Additionally, you’ll see discussions about tint, which is the green/pink hue to the light, very generally, neutral to slightly pink is preferable, some like moderate pink tints. The 519A is known for being slightly rosy.

I’m a big fan of right angle lights as they can be used on your head or in hand, whereas cigar tube lights are impractical to wear as a headlamp.

My bugbear (at least with the Manker E02 I have) is the UI - I like to go up/down light levels quite dynamically, the UI on mine (if it’s still same as current) has 2 channels so it’s not possible to switch between low and medium without turning the light off completely. That said, I’ve not seen many other complaints of this, so perhaps it’s just me.

My most used light currently is a Wurkkos HD10, I don’t like red LEDs as I find the light they produce a bit disorientating. The HD10 headband sucks but the HD12 band is available separately from Wurkkos and works “okay”. 14500 fuel only, if that matters to you.

You seem to like 14500 size right angle lights, so if you’re still searching for “perfection” you could look at the Emisar DW3A or perhaps the D2.

Alternatively, if you’re looking to expand the different types of lights you have, look at the Wurkkos CL01 lantern. Although the daylight hours are currently long, I used mine a bit during 9 days car camping 2 weeks ago.

Wasp · July 13, 2026, 10:31am

Thank you for the tips! And I will try to follow your rule in the future…

I would have probably gone for the HD10 and not the Mankers if it was dual fuel but it seems too much of a missed opportunity to have a light that size not work with readily available AA cells.

I just checked out the Wurkkos lantern, did you mean the CL01? It looks interesting. I also looked briefly at the Sofirn LT1s while I was looking at the HS10 but am not really shopping for a lantern right now.

The Emisars you recommended look very nice but they seem to be on the bigger and heavier end of 14500 lights. Looking around the Emisar/Noctigon catalogue, the KR1AA looks like a premium alternative to the T6 I have on order, that might be a tempting if I turn out to like that form factor.

TETANOS · July 13, 2026, 12:24pm

Welcome aboard and have a good one !

All the “new” flashlights are pretty good this days, and is very difficult to find a “bad” one, more like is to find the features that they fit in your preference !

Im my opinion is a good thing to spend a few more money and take a nice external charger and a few extra batteries so you don’t put pressure into your flashlights by charging the batteries in them, and you will have the extra batteries if - when you will need them ! The Vapcell S4 Plus V3.0 is a pretty good charger for its money !

gravelmonkey · July 13, 2026, 5:15pm

Depends on your setup, if you have other devices that you carry spare AA’s for, I can see the appeal.

I was also of the same mindset until the last 2 years or so, I think as I’ve acquired more lights with 14500 compatibility, the number of devices I have that run on NiMh cells has reduced to the point where I now have no need for AA’s.

As an aside, I like cells with built-in USB C charging to reduce number of spares and chargers I need to carry.

The H10 has built in charging anyway, so most times if I go away somewhere urban for a weekend etc, I’ll just bring a cable as I’m carrying a charger for my phone.

Yes sorry typo! Hanging ring and very strong magnetic tail are both useful. I was sceptical when Wurkkos released these but it’s actually been a good light, I accidently dropped it from 2m+ onto concrete and it survived with a scuff.

ToyKeeper · July 13, 2026, 5:49pm

The main thing is what gravelmonkey said: Try not to ever have more than one light on its way at the same time. This is true of pretty much any “Gear Acquisition Syndrome” type consumerism hobby. Slow down, and adjust course after each item, so you can get to your destination with fewer purchases.

And then once you find your “holy grail” item… it’s generally a good idea to get another of the same thing, if you can. Because in many cases, it won’t be available again later.

Yeah. It’s my favorite light. And I’m very, very picky.

OTOH, I’m also very, very biased. I’ve literally got two in my pockets right now, and that’s while wearing a bathrobe.

So… YMMV. Different people have different needs, different taste, and literally see differently. Like, the same colors won’t look the same to different people. Nobody can tell you what you’ll like.

BTW, side note… if you end up getting any Emisar/Noctigon lights (or Fireflies, or any flashable models from Wurkkos or Sofirn), it might be a good idea to grab the firmware flashing adapter too. The firmware on those gets updated periodically with new features and fixes and stuff, or you can modify it yourself. Almost everything current uses a 3-pin adapter, or there’s also a 6-pin adapter for some older models.

jon_slider · July 13, 2026, 6:13pm

Welcome Wasp

yes.. and we will all support you in buying more lights later.. lol

you catch on Quick!

The KR1AA is a personal favorite.. Its fine I have more than one right? lol:

KR1AA Are dual fuel, lately Ive been using USB-C 1.5V LiIon in them:

(they weigh less than Eneloop, and wont leak and ruin a light like Alkaline can)

since you have shown an interest in the HD12, I will tell you one of the reasons I did not buy it is because I dont like their choice of LEDs.. but since you also express an interest in White plus Red LED capability, I point you to my newest purchases.. a pair of Dual Channel Emisar D3AA:

(these are not dual fuel, but Im a big fan of the USB-C 14500.. unfortunately you have to buy them separately.. they are not cheap… but you wont need to buy a charger…)

Wasp · July 13, 2026, 9:28pm

Thank you all for the friendly replies!

It is partly that I have a lot of NiMH cells already and partly the comfort of being able to easily find primary cells in a village shop if I find myself out of spares. But it’s probably as easy to find a cafe or a pub to plug in a charger. And then, well, one would have to find something to do in the pub while charging…

Yeah this sounds like common sense really and is probably advice I would give on another topic on another day. But in this case I think I had a bit of decision paralysis and it was either by the whole shortlist, or buy none… haha

I think the E03h and the T6 were really my top choices and they will both serve quite different roles. The E02 and the HS10 were more impulse buys that I may come to regret. But hey, they were not expensive, especially the HS10.

Hahaha

Nice. I can’t decide whether I prefer the bare metal or the dark grey. Or maybe the black or the blue…

jon_slider · July 13, 2026, 10:46pm

At this time, the Silver colored one has the most developed design, intended for battery changes through the head.

Imo this is more convenient than manipulating the tailcap, especially if the clip is installed.

But all the colors work equally well once closed.. suit yourself.

fwiw, the Silver has Clear Anodising, it is not actually bare..

Note the Anduril User Interface and feature set of the KR1AA is state of the art when it comes to operating firmware. It is by far my favorite..

It did take some focused attention to learn how to use it, but to me, totally worth the effort.

Wasp · August 5, 2026, 11:43pm

Well, I have used my four lights for a couple of weeks now, around the house and on a family camping trip and thought I would post an update. More for my own cathartic pleasure than because anyone should care!

The E02 and E03 are both very nice. They feel well made and high quality - though I have had a weird issue with the E02 not turning off that I have posted about in another thread. I enjoy the quality of the light and can see why the 519A is well loved by the community.

The E02 is so compact and lightweight that, even though I have never previously felt the need to EDC a light, I have been putting it in my pocket because, ‘why not?’ I think it would make a great emergency backup light for hiking and wildcamping, for the same reason.

I really like the ultra low moonlight modes on both the E02 and E03. For our camping trip although we had hanging lanterns, we preferred to use the E03 with white diffuser fitted, hanging on its headband, as our lanterns did not go as dim. I do recognise Gravelmonkey’s complaint about not being able to switch between the moonlight and general modes while the light is on, but I generally haven’t needed anything higher than M3 so this hasn’t really bothered me. However, I would prefer them to always go to the lowest level in the group without memory.

I love the T6. I have it set to the L/M/H/T group without memory. Most of the time Low is enough but Turbo is only three taps away if needed. And because it takes the same 14500/AA cells as the E03 and the two lights are somewhat complementary – one a floody (especially with the diffuser) headtorch and the other a handheld with more throw – I can see these two together being my regular use lights.

But the unexpected star of the show has been the HS10. Its low price was the main reason I bought it and I wasn’t expecting a lot. It has certainly beaten my expectations.

There are some negatives.

Although it is very lightweight and short, its larger diameter means it doesn’t feel small compared to 14500 lights.
The beam quality is lower than the Mankers, the beam is narrower which bothered me at times, especially when reading, and there is a slight green tint.
I would like the lowest brightness to be lower.

But nevertheless, the Sofirn got most use during my trip. It is very light, the headband is comfortable and I like the asymmetric holder that brings the lens closer to the middle of the forehead than with other 90° lights used as headtorches. The UI is simple and intuitive and the battery charge indicator is reassuring – even if it can’t be seen while wearing the headtorch… The beam quality and green tint were not noticeable outdoors and the narrower beam helped to put more light on the path ahead without spilling onto other tents at the campsite. I thought I would like the continuous ramping mode but actually found stepped brightness more convenient.

Finally a reflection on CCT. I knew I didn’t want very cool white. But I was also nervous about the usefulness of light <4000K. I now realise that within memory, the standard for domestic lighting, car headlights, flashlights, etc was incandescent lamps, probably around 2700K-3000K, which were not perceived as too warm. I’m not yet committed to growing my light collection, but if I do, my next buy might be around 3000K.

jon_slider · August 5, 2026, 11:58pm

Congrats on going camping.. great opportunity to use different types of lights

I have come to feel the same way lately..

my present EDC is this dual channel Emissar D3AA:

It is 3 lights in one.

And the USB-C battery

and Deep Carry Clip mod

make it a Total Package for me.

mcjtom · August 6, 2026, 5:11am

My HD12 white LEDs were producing, how to put it scientifically, dirty light. Got it changed to 519a 5000K and added diffusion foil. It’s pleasant and useful now.

HD12 got bad press for misadvertising the 14500 part of the driver. It may not be the most efficient circuit, but it works and also has a nice feature for a headlamp - it keeps going and going for some 6 hours on low to moon as a reserve between 3.2 and 2.6 V. Inspires confidence.

Not a big fan of a sideways button (or any buttons) on headlamps - a single dial akin to HS43 would be most welcome. That would also improve the chances of not turning on turbo every other time (Morse’s two dots) when I want low red (three dots) - it remembers last levels on white and red separately, but is amnesiac on last used channel and defaults to the last white level from off - so it’s always triple click to red from anywhere - rhythmically or else turbo…

Lightbringer · August 6, 2026, 6:10am

Wanna breathe in some new life to that Minimag?

Drill out the salt-lick formerly known as alkaleaks as best you can. Sand and otherwise treat the inside so it’s down to the friendly bare metal.

Then goggle “match mod” right here, and go crazy.

Pick your emitter, then find one of those 800mA boost drivers that work great from 3V from alkaleaks and 2.4V from NiMH cells. That driver should push about 2W through the LED, or about 200lm at 100lm/W. Plenty more than the hotwire bulb used to (80lm with fresh cells, dropping fast each second).

Still love the simplicity of Minimags…

Oh, and you can order a 141000 cell from Acebeam (get a Pokomon 2AA and order an extra cell. you’ll thank me later), and use that with a regular driver made for Li cells.

Don’t go too crazy, powerwise, as the thermal path ain’t the greatest, and you don’t want to cook the little f’er. 2- or 3 7135 drivers (700mA-1050mA) is plenty.

Go crazy…

Wasp · August 6, 2026, 7:46am

Yes I did have a vague plan to do more or less what you suggest but didn’t really know where to start on removing the remnants of the cells. One of the two cells came out but one is firmly stuck inside.

When you say “drill out” do you literally mean put a drill through the cell case and is there anything safety wise I should look out for if I do that? Yes it’s likely fully depleted and it’s obviously not the same risk as with LiIon cells but I have always been wary of damaging cells of any kind.

The tail cap is partly corroded but still looks functional, and the end of the tube that I can see looks salvageable as well.

I’ll definitely look up match mod, thanks for the tip.

ToyKeeper · August 6, 2026, 8:07am

I was into smooth ramping for a while, and it’s still nice sometimes, but mostly I use a stepped ramp. It’s nice to have a consistent reference point for how bright each level is, and know roughly how long it’ll last per charge. With smooth ramping, I never know how bright it is or how long it’ll last.

I’ve added a few features which help though…

Manual memory or hybrid (timed) memory: Starts at a consistent user-configured level each time… optionally waiting a configurable time before resetting to this level. I generally save ramp level 2 or 3 as the manual memory level, and give it a timeout of 10 minutes. So if I haven’t used a light for 10+ minutes, it’ll start at a predictable level. Then I can ramp up/down if needed.
Button LED threshold: Changes the button LED from dim to bright at a specific ramp level, so I can get a consistent “mile marker” while ramping.
“Voltage” aux LED mode, and POVD (Post-Off Voltage Display): Lights up the RGB aux LEDs, to show battery charge level by color. That way, I can know roughly how long it’ll last, at a glance.
Mid-ramp blip (on some lights): Blips off the main LEDs for a few milliseconds when passing a specific ramp level, to provide a “mile marker”. I’ve mostly stopped using this though, in favor of other options.

With a little bit of configuration, I end up usually needing only the most minimal user inputs during regular use. One click to turn on at the saved level, one click to turn off, and zero clicks to check the battery level (glance at the color of the aux LEDs once in a while).

… but I still keep it in stepped ramp mode most of the time, so I’ll have a few other consistent levels available. It’s pretty uncommon for me to use smooth ramp mode these days.

RichH · August 6, 2026, 8:11am

Of course, that’s right, everything’s fine.

Of your choices, the only one I’m familiar with is the HS10, and agree about the battery. CR123 size battery powered lights are a rare thing these days, simply because the runtimes aren’t great.

Mine has a specific use, it’s in my first campervan aid kit and invaluable for seeing splinters, dressing a cut etc in low light.

Wasp · August 6, 2026, 8:20am

I’m curious to know… I guess the tint will look weird and it wouldn’t score highly for CRI, but if you had to give a CCT number to the mixed mode what would it be?

Lightbringer · August 6, 2026, 8:28am

Those cells are piles of salt. Start with a 14mm bit and drill em out.

Pipe cleaner kits (nylon, brass, steel) are great for more-gently abrading away the non-case nasty bits.

And they self-center when scraping away softer bits.

jon_slider · August 6, 2026, 12:14pm

Here are some visuals of a 2500K mix with a very rosy tint, because of a high proportion of Red in the mix.

I think of it as a pretty pink sunset color, that I like to use before bed.

The mix proportion is variable, more or less White added to more or less Red. It will result in more or less Pink tinted White light.. With less Red in the mix, the color moves closer to the 4200K white LEDs.

On a spectrum plot it is the black dot way below the 2500K mark. And in the bottom half of the image it is being compared to the smart bulb on my ceiling, set to its most red color (620nm):

I hope the visuals help.. it might make more sense if you experience a mix with your own eyes.. Photos are only an approximation, and exaggerate differences depending on what colors are being compared.

After dark, or before dawn, a Rosy mix can be very pleasant.

Anduril has some very powerful features.. It allows variable mixing, plus there is a 50/50 mix option, and also a gradient that mixes automatically based on how bright the light is turned up.. so it becomes whiter at higher output, and redder at lower output (or even vice versa).. You really have to see and experience it, to understand what it can look like.