Just starting, not important

Off-topic Chatter
1

Hi, I am posting here than in the higher profile forums because I want to make sure I don’t create any undo notice. My post is relating to “how to confirm” you are getting what you pay for. I recall seeing threads that compared fake emitters and pill components to the real mccoys, and now it is eluding me. It can all be very confusing and once again I find myself at a loss. Does anyone have a link that maybe discusses any BLFa6 imitators?

I want to be clear that I am not trying to sound any alarms. Maybe I should just ask if the pill boards are supposed to be red with “Alex Wells” on them. Also I do not have the proper equipment to view the emitter to confirm it is a true Cree. Having just received a total of 4 BLFa6’s, I want to rest assured they are genuine BLF quality before gifting them.

Also, please post if you want to throw out some suggestions for budget priced magnifiers that are good for viewing emitters.

Thanks, I really appreciate your help.

PS: if all is genuine my first mod attempt is to add a spring bypass. Again, thanks

2

Welcome. Alex Wells was the person responsible for designing the driver. That part sounds real enough, without pics it is hard to tell if it has the right LED, should also have a copper direct thremal path star for the LED.

3

Turn the light on at turbo for 1 minute. Is it too hot to hold? If yes then you have a genuine CREE led.

Also, it is very unlikely that you get anything fake with these lights, it happens more often with cheap ultrafires, clones, SRK multi emitter lights, etc.

4

Well, the first Eagle Eye X6 BLF-SE was “cloned” and lots of people got fake ones. It still had “BLF” typed on it, but it wasn’t the same.

5

Sorry for no pics. Learning how to properly post them is in my near future is a must, and hinders your “welcome” help in the meantime. My apologies

I take it the direct copper path requires removal of the star to view it?

So much to learn!! I also have to learn how to properly reply using multiple member quotes in my post. I’d like to acknowledge each reply as it is important to me. Each one is very much appreciated.

Thanks!

6

There’s not really a way to see DTP without removing the LED from the star and checking with a DMM. If it says ‘Alex Wells’ on the star, I would be confident it’s legit.

I also have not heard of any copies/clones of the A6 yet.

7

All replies have been music to my ears. I thank you

Any magnifier suggestions for inspecting emitters?

8

Where did you buy them from?

9

I use my phone camera for this kind of thing, get as close as the focus will allow, take the image then zoom into that :slight_smile:

Cheers David

10

As was suggested earlier a camera usually works great to take a picture then magnify the image. For quick things I just use an old plastic Aspheric lens I ripped out of a terrible host.

11

Confirming DTP with a multimeter / DMM is generally easy. Most MCPCBs include two little extensions for the thermal pad which allow extra solder to bead up beside the LED. If good electrical conductivity exists between these and the bottom of the MCPCB then it is safe to assume that it is a DTP MCPCB.

12

Am I correct that in order to view the backside of the star, which I want to do, I must de-solder the leads first? It looks to be the only way I see it happening at this time. For me everything is hands-off until I know I will not be damaging it. I have viewed different videos but so far nothing is specific enough on this EDC.

It would be nice if I had an old plastic Aspheric lens handy as suggested but fear I am predestined to spend money at this critical stage of my growth. I am curious now that you mentioned it though. Do you think a “particular” lense might be the “best value for the desired results”? That maybe I don’t require something fancier (?) that costs more but isn’t necessary? I’ll be proud to purchase whatever a journeyman suggests!

I guess it is safe to say where I purchased them since all indications at this point of the quality is good. Banggood, US direct out of California, 3 days ship. I was very happy with that.

Thanks again, each post is giving me more confidence to keep moving ahead and I need all I can get :db:

13

For magnifiers, I remember these being mentioned in a thread somewhere:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003UCODIA/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_nS_img?_encoding=UTF8&colid=XNQXT9IKBFT2&coliid=I2SBPI46PIHQ6D

14

RE: magnifiers… I personally use a jeweler’s loupe (a 7x triplet). A nice head mounted magnifier is something I’d like to try for a while… it sounds like a good option.

15

Very nice pictures LightVision1, Thanks, It’s really something how pictures can say it all. One thing I noticed is how much cleaner and whiter your lettering is, whereas mine appear dirty white. Only a picture would be of help so excuse my poor description. So are you just prying out the board and under the board is that aluminum triple disc, and I’m guessing for heat dissipation?

Thanks wight, you reminded me that I have a Bausch and Lomb 10x(?) eye loop I have had for 10+ years . I guess my memory isn’t too bad since I could have bought a new one before remembering. lol I have it in my van and just as soon as I have to walk out to it, I will retrieve it. Right now it’s too late plus its about as cold as a witches heart.

thanks again and stay warm

16

You are welcome.

I saw LightVision1’s post before, but now it’s missing for me. That seems strange.

I would avoid judging the inexpensively made driver boards based on such minor factors as the shade of the silkscreen. Comparing the markings on the MOSFET would be much better for starters.