I just put together my new light using KD’s 8x7135 driver. It appears I only have HI mode. I remember someone else having this problem but don’t quite remember what the fix was. Any help guys?
Led - grounded to outer ring on driver IIRC.
Hmmm. I think that is exactly what I have! I wasn’t getting contact from the driver edge to the pill so I had to add a blob of solder. Just my luck I added it right at the ground wire. I’ll have to check it out in the morning.
Thank you 
Yep, that should be the case.
You might be referring to ME because I posted this exact issue 
haha
Happened to me before too,now we can change the thread title to “how to make a one mode driver” that question comes up often here.
I agree. It’s actually kind of a pleasant surprise if we’re getting a regulated 1-mode driver :bigsmile:
Shorting led- pad to gnd ring gives direct drive(bypasses 7135’s) shorting led+ pad to input pin of 7135 gives 1-mode current controlled(bypasses micro controller).
That’s what I was wondering. That’s why I said “IF we’re getting a regulate…”
Thanks for the clarification!
Got it fixed! :bigsmile: I just wish I had known the directions for the jumpers for HI-MED-LO and LO-MED-HI were switched. I wanted low first but got hi first using the directions supplied. Hmmm. Got hi first. That didn’t sound right.
Heh, heh. Probably why you messed up the solder.
Prolly why I didn’t read the directions first too!
I just went and re-read the directions. I thought the O was open and the X connected but the directions say the opposite. That means the directions are right and I was wrong. I guess it pays to read ALL the directions and not just glance at the chart.
Yes, but the directions used to be wrong, so to do it wrong was right! Oh, and I also have shorted the LED to ground, same way you did!
Dog gone it! Now I’m having trouble maintaining a good connection from driver to pill. I cant solder the edge to the pill because it’s aluminum. What’s the best way to fix it?
Old-Lumens had a great idea to fix this problem a small piece of wire.
I ordered SOLDER-IT aluminum solder paste - hoping this will do it, waiting for it to arrive. for the light I'm working on, there is a lot of upwards pressure on the driver because of the stiff + and - wires, so soldering to aluminum is my only choice - lack lathe or other press-fit choices. Several attempts have failed - think I ruined 2 drivers.
Thanks E1320. I’ll give the wire a shot.
Tom E I don’t have any experience soldering to aluminum but let us know how that Solder-It works out for you.
Would one of yooz please post a pic of all these connection possibilities? I just wanna make sure I don’t thermal-fuse another driver. 
Well, there is the Nanjg105c and the KD V2 driver.. both have differente mode settings.
Some nice pics of the Nanjg105c:
I read your slightly derailed thread asking about the connections.. you can see most of the traces in these pics. Besides the MCU (Attiny13) and the AMC7135 chips there are only 4 more parts.
The black thing on the right side of the MCU is for reverse polarity protection, the two resistors should be for low-voltage stepdown and I dont know about the brown thing on the backside, but it looks like a capacitor.
indeed a capacitor. I bridge them with a resistor to cut stubid next mode memory out and leave instead a 3 second back to high. I use a 1 megaohm resistor. Or, I eliminate the capacitor alltogether and bridge-solder without the resistor to get one-mode high. I find myself for simplicity’s sake leaning toward the latter these days. Particulary needed on weapon lights. H)
Next mode memory? Nanjg105c usually remember the mode you had set. No capacitor -> only high mode?