KD (kaidomain): Deals and new products thread

It’s a old SA police light so not exactly a mag light but I got it free and guess I gotta make something g of it. Hand grains a spacer that I will press fit then need to establish the exact height of the mcpcb/optic/reflector/lens so I can make another copper spacer for above that. Which 5x5 optic you seen? The head ID is not massive


I have the led dna ones for my various S2+, they are good and have 5x5mm clearance. Never tried them with an XHP though, but they should work?

Hello Ban,

Could you find these emitters for sale?

Maybe this can be of help:

  1. XHP35A domed, U-C4-0E2 (CRI90+, flux C4, 0E2 chromaticity region: 5700K) @ Arrow Available in small quantities.
  2. XHP35A domed, U-C4-0E3 (CRI90+, flux C4, 0E3 chromaticity region: 5000K) @ Arrow 500 pieces minimum order right now.

Had A bookmarked since long ago, never got it back then.

As I said before, domed version is not for my current needs

Wellp adam7027, problem is the majority of high power leds we use here are domed.
I recently found an interesting way of dedoming emitters. Quick and neat:

This is a Nichia 219B 4500K Ra9080.

Used 7 small, stacked 0.1mm copper sheet cuts over the MCPCB surface to adjust milling depth. Six 0.1mm sheet cuts ended up being too low for an LH351B.


Are you going to sand it or leave it rough? Seems just as easy to slice it with a washer if you dont care about the top finish?

My thought too: if you have your washer right, you may as well slice the dome with a razor blade and have a nice clean finish.

I've cut a few XHP50As, using a big 1mm copper plate with a hole in the middle, sliding the blade atop. That way I do not obtain a fully level cut, it ends up being a slope. I can do a couple cuts from each side and obtain an 0K to look at low hill. But I do not like that much.

Concerning washer and razor blade cut dedoming, it works but I need a washer with the right thickness. I know washers are precisely sorted by diameter, but are they by thickness? And then there is the cut which, with a washer on top, I may need to slide the blade at an angle.

With the above method I can hot glue a bunch of emitters over the table, adjust the milling depth once and make short work of 'em. If the dome surfaces end up a bit coarse, so be it.

I have a set of 4 washers for slicing the LH351D, from thick to thin, starting with the thickest to slice off the top of the dome, working my way to the thinnest one that slices just above the phosfor. The thinnest one was sanded from a slightly too thick washer to the correct thickness. The blade must be kept at a fixed angle when doing the last cut, to get the cut level.

It does require reflowing the led flat against the ledboard, or you end up cutting into the phosfor.

Yea you can buy washer in different thicknesses i personally use nylon washers when slicing. Its easier to slice straight if the LED is on a new MCPCB.

I had another idea you can buy thickness gauges and drill a hole in each thickness. These are supposed to be precision tools but when buying online be weary i wouldn’t relay on one to tell me proper bore thickness lol. We use these to gauge thickness in engine walls and stuff but it can be used a general guide any where you can’t fit a caliper. Like a spark plug gap.

They look like this but i am not sure if these are wide enough i got a set in my tap and die kit but its a bit small i have seen much wider ones.

Mmm those gauge blades can be very handy to adjust milling bit height precisely. Thanks for pinpointing this everydaysurvivalgear. I made a search and found bigger sets for more or less the same money:

Guess I can stack the blades, so not much of a big deal choosing one set over another.

Doesn't it?

Cheers :-)

You can make your own with shim stock and a shim punch or see if you can find what you want in precision shim packs…Yahoo Search - Web Search;_ylt=AwrJ6ytXOA1dQ.cAR2tXNyoA;_ylu=X3oDMTE3aTNjYjR0BGNvbG8DYmYxBHBvcwM4BHZ0aWQDQTA2MDdfMQRzZWMDcmVsLWJvdA—?p=metric+shim+packs&ei=UTF-8&fp=1&fr2=rs-bottom%2Cp%3As%2Cv%3Aw%2Cm%3Aat-s&fr=yfp-t

I make my own having accsess to all kinds of shim stock (steel/plastic) and my Precision Brand Shim Punch.https://www.tequipment.net/Precision-Brand/40105/Punch-&-Die-Sets/?rrec=true

It’s also great for making many other things, like copper contacts,copper rings for spacers or driver adapters, glow vinyl dots, glow vinyl gaskets…

Another tool of my trade…

Hi BanL,

four months ago I got a 53mm dust cover for a flashlight that I measured to be 51mm instead. I sent an email with some fotos to you and was told they would pass them to the product support. I haven’t heard back anything since then. My order number was 2994 and I sent you the fotos on february 14th.

I ordered the dust cover with 53mm for my Cometa, but I couldn’t make it fit, even though it has been recommended somewhere here on BLF.

Does anyone know the MCU on this driver

The default UI looks useless, but the MCU looks like it could be an attiny85, so maybe it can be flashed with useful firmware.

That’s a no-go. The MCU is the 10-pin chip, probably a PIC. The larger 8-pin chip appears to be a FET.

Oh. Yea I was looking at the 8 pin chip. Well that’s a shame. Who would design a powerful driver like this to START on turbo?

Its not about driver design. Its namely about whoever decides which software goes into the MCU, and the reasons behind. Likely many of these drivers are mainly software implemented for some sort of generic market or generic abroad market. The mode spacing in that driver is terrible, too.

The Chinese, It use to be alot worse than it is now but thanks to several contributing members here on BLF it’s becoming rare. At least most of them are making the strobes and flashes hidden after many years of complaining about them in the main UI.

I always wonder why.

How come these Chinese software engineers can’t come up with good original UI ideas?