Here’s an idea, what if you added a plastic ring around the switch to protect it?
Maybe make it just shorter than the switch height and just around the sides and top. Exact height would be owners preference.
If you can’t make the switch lower, raise the sides. 
I like a form factor of G20 but the tint is too cold to my taste.
Any chance to see the inside (pill, wires, driver)?
its why i swapped it for a MT-G2, now mine as a perfect smooth tint, and has a better smother flood beam.
Did you do anything to the reflector? Does it fit just like that? Thanks.
no reflectors mods needed, MT-G2 had lots of space.
Thanks for the review.
Did anybody compare it to the DQG Tiny 26650 3rd?
Dumb clarification question - when you say “Cooled” (vs uncooled), is this just pointing a household fan at the light while it is on? Or is there some kind of cooling attachment that is actually put on the light?
Lately there has been some worry over the electronic lockouts increasing parasitic drain. I left the battery into the G20 for 4 weeks (28 days) with the electronic lockout activated. After sitting on the shelf the battery read 4.08 volts and during recharging it took in 420 mAh which averages out to the 5100 mAh battery discharging completely in about a year (5100mAh/420mAh*28d=340d). Of course the standby current may increase on lower battery voltage to keep power draw constant, but in practice the lockout mode doesn’t have a meaningful effect to the parasitic drain. You should remove the battery if left unused for longer periods.
I highly suggest dedoming and possibly swapping the emitter to a bit warmer and higher CRI one if you decide to get the G20.
The emitter is on a small copper MCPCB. The thermal sensor seems to be attached to the shelf, which explains the ringing in the output when the light adjusts its output. The temperature changes are faster than if it was positioned on the driver for example.
With the change the beam becomes very consistent, the hotspot and spill are almost identical in tint and there’s no artifacts either.
I swapped a CRI80+ 4500 K XHP70 onto mine (Cree part XHP70A-01-0000-0D0HM245G). Here’s the results with the stock LED, the 4500 K LED and lastly the new LED with a sliced dome (I used a razor blade).
I wasn’t happy at all with just the emitter swap, since the huge tint shift (greenish yellow to blue) was still there. Slicing the dome fixed that right up and the beam is now excellent!
Since my original G20 had pretty much identical tint and tint shift to my sample of the Olight R50 Pro Seeker, here’s beamshots from that and the newly modded G20 with a sliced dome using the same camera settings (with a slight desaturation of the R50 image to make it look more realistic).
CRI Data reveals that the new emitter is actually CRI80, but the hotspot was terribly tinted towards yellow/green (duv 0.009). It was also much warmer than specified (4000 K vs. 4500 K), but this seems to be often the case when measured from the hotspot in a flashlight with a reflector.
First, the new emitter with the dome intact.
And with the dome sliced off things look much better. More neutral (duv 0.004). And as expected, a slightly warmer hotspot at 3900 K. CRI dropped by one at that particular position of the beam, no worries, it was back to 80 on the next spot I measured.
Output at 30 sec changed as follows:
Stock: 2200 lumens
4500 K: 1990 lumens
Dedomed: 1760 lumens
A sacrifice I’m more than willing to make for the prettier beam. I didn’t measure lux, but the hotspot was clearly brighter after dedoming the 4500 K LED. Getting more throw wasn’t the goal of this exercise. Now the light quality is actually superb and Klarus should offer it with a dedomed XHP70 (like every other manufacturer). I hoped Cree would also manufacture XHP50/70 with no dome, but I guess flashlight industry isn’t big enough. In my opinion the beam quality always improves after dedoming when using these.
The finished mod.
That’s the main reason why i modded mine with a tail clicky switch instead of the usless second electronic button it came with.
thank you for your review. and can you advise for my trouble? i try to buy klarus g20 for my bicycle. i probably will use “high” mode most often. but g20 is 520 lumen.
but acebeam ec50 gen2 is 1380 lumen.(following your another review)
g20 looks like more floody and wide. it is good. but concerned about 520 lumen.
what do you think which is better choice?
(apologize my terrible english :D)
Great review maukka! I was reading Klarus g20 review here. But, I am seeing you have also given lots of effort in this g20 review. My question is if i compare klarus g20 flashlight(3000 lumen) with klarus xt11gt (2000 lumen) then who will the race? Because, I am feeling that although g20 is 3000 lumen but it cannot compete with xt11gt's 2000 lumen. Their price almost same too. What is your personal opinion about this?
The XT series consists more of throwers while the G series are floodier. The hotspot on the XT11GT will be much brighter than on the G20. The right choice depends on your needs. I haven’t tried the XT11GT so that’s all I can comment on it.
Hello guys , which one is better - Klarus G20 or Imalent DN70 ?
A really great buyer beware review. Thanks! This light is worth $20 not $100.
Soon we can build our own light in this format. Lexel is working on a boost driver that runs NarsilM and might be ready in a month or so.
I plan to take another Supfire L5-S and build a single 26650 light with xhp70.2 and SMO reflector.
Any chance we can get the reflector dimensions? It looks like this light will take the carclo XHP70 TIR optics
26.5mm diameter, 13-14mm depth, I’m looking around for a good host to fit these optics.
XHP70.2 would also be a good upgrade.
!
!
Just below 12mm height and 29mm diameter.
Ah, thanks for that uselessuser. Perhaps the next size up with some shaving and without the glass lens, a fun future project.