Knife Sharpening

Macka17 · 2018-08-05T04:14:56.000Z

Been sharpening and skinning for over 60 yrs. Tried a few systems and ways in my time.
Incl the sloooow Japanese water stones.
You get old just doing it that way.
Nowadays. I find. myself. that the easiest and most constant ANGLES kept. Which is the most important part of sharpening.
Along with the finish. Is using the DMT Diamond plates.
modded to fit in the RUIXO Angled sharpener tool.
Cheap. Chinese. had for yrs. still works. Gives me Euro and Japanese blade angles to suit every time.
With a small diamond 600 Grit tool (5in by 1 in.worn down well over 30issh yrs. to top off in the field.

I got on well with a small oil soaked 3 in Axe stone. fine/med, in my pocket for longer than I remember.
(50odd yrs ago)
So anything will do the job. Try ’em all.

Those powered tools do nothing for me. When I look at them all I see is a grinder…
My PUMA Prince. Duke. Are still (after 1973/’81 purchase) as new, with hand sharpening only.
Along with a coupla Custom skinners.
Plus I strop blades to finish with an old ex UK army 3in by 1\4in Donkey saddle strap.
was about 8 ft long to start, made 2 for me 1 left.
Beautiful oiled leather though.

contactcr · 2018-08-05T04:59:55.000Z

LichtAn · 2018-08-05T09:38:37.000Z

I wouldn’t ever use any non-water cooled device to sharpen a knife, as the heat weakens your edge significantly. If you really want to get deep into knife sharpening, look up Cliff Stamp.
Otherwise I’d recommend a coarse waterstone for setting an initial bevel and something like a Spyderco Sharpmaker for touchups.

CNCman · 2018-08-05T12:01:58.000Z

Well that is a lot of advice, Thanks Guys

To each his own on this one. But I prefer hand sharpening, as it is relaxing and stress relieving. I do use a 5 stone Lansky old school model for all my smaller pocket knives. I want to learn to use Water Stones like ” LichtAn ” mentioned, but time constraints has postponed that for now. Just a quickie note for large Knives say over 8 inches. I use a full sheet of the black silicon carbide wet or dry abrasive paper, wet both sides with water and lay it on a flat surface, and at the edge. The wet back side will hold it in place, now you have a large flat surface to sharpen on for those big blades. For kitchen knives I only use 600 grit because it cuts better with a little course grit. Keep it wet on top with water and a little dish soap.

Macka17 · 2018-08-05T14:09:29.000Z

Get a commercial Butchers diamond 10 or 12in steel. I have a 600 diamond grit,
with a Ceramic 12in polishing steel. Once you get your edge.

At home They usually keep your edges up for up to a month . Wife’s knives in kitchen I “sharpen” on diamond plates around once every three months or so.
The diamond steels keep her Wusthof and VG10 Jap blades up to hair shaving for that long with normal kitchen use.

Hunting. I used to last a week out in bush unless on Buff’s or goats.
They have scales, not skin.
Roos. We’d “touch up” on plates b4 every Day. and the steels would cover edges for several hundred ’roos a day.
6 blokes. one freezer van.
Good commercial skinning/boning blades would hold it that long.
Fancy Damascus and Carbon Japanese blades get too much chipping of edges to be any good on serious work.
A well folded Length of tensile steel cable makes a good blade though sfter quenched several times.

A 2 or 3inch Power saw carbon blade makes one of the best skinning blades possible.
Snap off the length. Slow grind the shape,then profile the curved leading edge.
Rubber dip the handle with enuff layers to give good grrip. (or whatever)
Those things will do pigs. goats and roo’s all day long.
and come back tomorrow for more.

Eldest son still uses one I made up over 30 yrs ago. Still got the blue on sides of blade.
Mate dipped handle enuff times in Tyre rubber compound vats till he got bulky enuff.
then we fine ground it down to suit my grip. Magic knife (for skinning)

Power sharpeners are good for one thing. Knife salesmen.
Think about it. what are you doing when that belt is spinning around. and you pushing your blades up against it.
Buzzing away to itself.Wearing away all that lovely EXPENSIVE steel……
At a much higher rate than any other way of sharpening.
The clean edge LOOKS nice. but you giving it a new one every time you do so.
Usually most blades just need the tip of cutting edge unfolding and laying straight again.
Look at them in a magnifier.
Unless you really worn it blunt (then reshape it) It usually needs only unfolding.

plasma327 · 2018-08-05T14:48:03.000Z

The machine run at a low enough rpm there is no heat generated to remove or hurt the temper of the blade…
I also have the old school lansky system and used it for years. Even after using this i still finish with a leather
stopping belt i have used since my first knife… With all the points made above i agree but this sharpener does
work as advertised… No more 2 hrs to sharpen a blade and i like that too…
I almost invested in this but for a complete kit it is expensive in my book. Any member have one of these?

Wicked Edge

Sharpeners

Three of these sharpener models are available in pre-packaged bundles with multiple accessories. To view those bundles, check out Pro-Packs.

flyboy · 2018-08-10T04:12:05.000Z

I had only small success with stones, from pre-teen till about 40. I used two-grit carborundum, soft Arkansas/Washita, Black Arkansas, with indifferent success, then I got a crock stick sharpener for $4.95 off ebay its early years, and used it with great satisfaction. One guy at a gun show didn’t believe me when I told him my knife was “pretty sharp” he took it, and it sliced better than whatever he was selling. His last comment to me was”Well, we can’t do any business today!” I replaced the sticks after about 15 years, and I still use it. The wife gave me an electric/diamond stone Chef’s Choice one Christmas, and it works well for kitchen knives, but I won’t t let it touch my good knives. I had a Benchmade Sharpmaker, and returned it , because it didn’t really do well. Probably because I didn’t know how to get the most out of it. Bought a Lansky system, and used it some…awkward…THEN my kids got me a WORKSHARP, the basic model, which I’ve used ever since, and I like it! YMMV.

mmalive · 2018-08-21T23:03:59.000Z

Ooh man, so much for the Gordon knife sharpening tool I bought at Harbor Freight. Worthless on sharpening stainless steel blades.

Gotta for out for quality sharpener.

ChrisGarrett · 2018-08-21T23:24:50.000Z

I’ve got the Lansky Deluxe set, a Hoffritz ceramic crock stick V sharpener, a couple of diamond stones and an Arkansas stone that all work well, unless I’m doing badly damaged garage sale beaters, or just trying to completely reprofile something.

It’s really not that difficult to get a sharp knife, but it takes a little practice.

Chris

Gr8Swammee · 2018-08-21T23:22:53.000Z

You can buy n amazon a leather stropping belt for your work sharp that is magic! Complete game changer…. like 14 bucks

jacktheclipper · 2018-08-22T02:47:44.000Z

I use my Worksharp on knives , kukris , machetes , and even my mower blades .
The key difference here is a convex edge verses a beveled edge .
The convex edge is stronger because you have more metal immediately under the edge and slices better since you don’t have ‘shoulders’ on the edge .

Andybibbville · 2018-08-22T03:07:54.000Z

Here is something similar. Drillpro DIY Sander Schleifband Adapter Für 100mm 4 Zoll Elektrische Winkelschleifer Sale - Banggood Deutschland Mobile-arrival notice

RobertB · 2018-08-22T04:25:52.000Z

ChrisGarrett · 2018-08-22T04:53:35.000Z

Belt sanders are great if you’ve practiced. If you’re new to them, you can ruin the blade and/or the temper, in a matter of seconds.

Chris

djmcconn · 2018-08-22T05:33:55.000Z

Very true. Learning to let th sander do the work and not user over pressure was key to good results Spray bottle of water was also handy.

ChrisGarrett · 2018-08-22T05:48:01.000Z

jacktheclipper:

I use my Worksharp on knives , kukris , machetes , and even my mower blades .
The key difference here is a convex edge verses a beveled edge .
The convex edge is stronger because you have more metal immediately under the edge and slices better since you don’t have ‘shoulders’ on the edge .

You’re correct in part: a convex is a better edge for heavy duty chores, such as chopping, which is why axe heads, hatchets and heavy duty blades, like the Busse offerings, are convex.

For delicate slicing duties, a full flat grind (FFG,) or single bevel (sushi knives) are preferable for that task.

Chris

PBWilson · 2018-08-22T18:55:51.000Z

ChrisGarrett:

Belt sanders are great if you’ve practiced. If you’re new to them, you can ruin the blade and/or the temper, in a matter of seconds.

Chris

Also not using belts that are excessively worn is key to maintaining the temper of your knives. I’ve used a Delta 1x42 sander for so many tasks in my workshop and it does an excellent job on knives. I need to buy some new belts though. The ones I used up over the years were from Lee Valley. Anyone have a good source of good quality belts? The 80 grit ones from Lowes or HD are not a good choice.

BeyondTheBox · 2018-09-10T17:18:06.000Z

I don’t own or use any of the power tool sharpeners. I’ve found that the good old Lansky system is enjoyable to use and does a fantastic job. I have a leather strop, but almost never bother using it. Another great sharpener that does awesome on the go is the Spyderco Sharpmaker.

PBWilson · 2018-09-10T17:41:48.000Z

I’ve used a Lansky system for years before I got my 1x40 belt sander. They work great even if people feel limited by the four settings.

DB_Custom · 2018-09-11T02:37:43.000Z

I should probably invest in some new diamond hones for my Lansky, the ones I have are long lived and no longer even close to their rated grit. lol I’ve had this Lansky guide and mount for over 25 years…