I think the magnet is a good reason to wait until later..
plus later gives you the option for Raw Aluminum and several other things that Jackson is already sold out on, such as certain button colors..
and Hank costs about $20 less.. your wallet will thank you 
I bought one from Jackson planning to buy more from Hank. I think I’ll also ask Hank to send me a magnetic tail cap (for the one I already have). Jackson said it’s basically not serviceable and has a custom magnet and switch versus non-magnetic.
I may decide to order another from Jackson if he gets more 50.3 5700K…
I would assume so, but I would ask before buying. I was set on the 3000K SFT-70 for my Jackson KR1AA, but I got the 3500k FFL5009R instead. Probably, it won’t show up for another two weeks, I’m expecting.
when Hank releases the KR1AA, I will be getting another with a more “throwy” LED. surely there will be some people experimenting with different TIRs. I’m guessing that its TIR is somewhere around 20mm diameter, probably less than 15mm tall. I’d also be very happy with a reflector version. sorry for getting off-track.
the biggest reason I went to reply is to say that I would 100% ask about the CRI before buying, as Jackson’s site is not very consistent about providing emitter specs. I mean this with no disrespect. he does a LOT for us, and focuses more on the work than having a perfect online store front.
I also say to ask because I have bought “FA3” and “FA4” SST-20s from him that were just as green as any old bin. when asked why the tint was so bad, he replied with the chromacity specsheet or whatever it’s called, the one that shows the BBL and the “bin compartments,” and just said that FA4 are supposed to be below DUV.
I put those SST-20s into a DW4 mule with Lees 1/4 minus green and left it at that. I have ONE single unknown bin SST-20 4000k that actually has nice tint, and it was either from MTN or ILLUMN.
again, sorry for the long, ranty post, I’m just saying I would double check before buying. I LOVE the high-cri 3000K SFT-70 I have in my L21B, much more than the HD2 bin SFT-40s I have. I would love to have it in a TIR light, and am considering the DM11 or a fireflies.
I ordered my KR1AA from Jackson because I really was just impatient and wanted to try the FFL5009R. even though I already have 4000K and 5000K ones on the way. I got the gray version. I wanted the raw one, but it was OOS, and decided to just get a TiCu when it inevitably releases next year.
I haven’t bought any Hanks for nearly a year. I would’ve just waited for Hank to release them, but I order from Jackson because he sells parts for lights that nobody else offers. However because of his location prices are quite high. On the other hand, he does amazing modding work and complete custom-ordering that you also can’t really get anywhere else. I don’t like paying so much for certain parts, but I can’t really complain. Since he uses Shopify, there is a rewards points system that equals money off orders, which is cool.
I only have two or three Hanks from Jackson, but I am really eyeing his custom DW4S 2CH mule. That and a 395nm UV D1K.
I believe that is the most throwy of the High CRI options.. afaik the cooler SFT-70 are Low CRI
i think some people believe the XHP50.3 will be more throwy than SFT70, due to higher lumens (needs verification)
Jackson did not specify the CRI, but imo the larger XHP die wont put more Lux on target, as the XHP LED phosphor area (LES) is wider than the SFT-70 (needs verification)
fyi, the KR1AA Tir Optic is 16.8 x 6.9mm (Hank said it is a custom order he requested). I think the reason it needs to be diffused is that otherwise the NTG50 produces a donut hole.
do you know if they are High CRI or not?
I agree buying a new tailcap w magnet is the easiest solution. afaik, Hank glues the tailspring PCBs into the tailcaps.. getting them out is a chore that involves debonder..
Sorry guys it really seems like I’m just raggin on Jackson but I truly mean no disrespect. He is a very cool guy and does wonderful work for us as a community. He also has answered any question I’ve ever had.
Yes, I don’t believe the 50.3 would reach further than the SFT-70. most of the difference would just be with output. there’s also a probability that this TIR wouldn’t work as well with certain emitters compared to others.
Tir optic is 16.8 x 6.9mm
Thanks, I was really wondering about that. due to the height I imagine that it could be difficult to find another option. although surely Hank has put the best option available for a general “EDC beam.” I just would like to have a more throw-oriented option, like the FW1AA. I have the idea to convert one KR into a reflector light, probably with a taller bezel. that will probably be too much work without access to a machine shop though
I’m thinking there might be pipe fittings/adapters with similar threads that might work to “lengthen” the head/bezel
It appears that the Convoy T3 bezel will fit the KR1AA: https://www.reddit.com/r/Hanklights/comments/1pelifw/psa_convoy_t3_bezel_legos_with_kr1aa/
Seems pretty nice… one of those rare lights where pretty much everything seems to have gone right. No “snatching defeat from the jaws of victory” here, as far as I can tell. I’m hoping I can get a KR1AA in bare aluminum with a NTG 4200K emitter, once those are available. I could see this being a new favorite.
How are you?
Probably the same raw aluminum but with SFT70 3000k.. I am in doubt🧐
The 50.3 hi, high CRI Jackson has would be the same as what Convoy has I think which is R90. Mine have typically measured just under 90 unfortunately, with around 60’s for R9 (70.3 is the same story).
The 50.3 hi will be throwy, probably about the same maybe lightly better than SFT70. Here are my DA1/DA1k’s for some reference. Note that the DA1k with the FFL5009r 5000K, that emitter was basically the best sample I’ve received yet (it’s exceptional). Overall, the “throw” of these 5050 6V emitters will be pretty close to the same in practice. Like @ToyKeeper I def recommend the NTG50 4200K as it pretty consistently is very good.
The 50.3 and 70.3 bin to get is the 2A M2 bins. These have the closest-to-good properties.
Of note, the last 50.3 5700K I got from Hank has been the most exceptional yet:
Thank You for the great details!
Including the info that the 50.3 are High CRI 9050
added your DUV values to Jacksons list:
Remember a key point, that 50.3 sample I have that measured -0.0002, that is rare. Average I measured is around +0.0026
good point
LEDs definitely vary in tint, they are not identical
I hear chocolate chip cookies also vary in the number of chips ;-)..
I never take the time to count.. LOL
Guys how does the SFT-70 3000K compare (throw/lumen/efficiency) to the NTG50?
Having a hard time deciding wich one to go for…
That’s the config I went with, and I have to say that it is a sweet little light. Also makes a nice night-time companion to my 5000K NTG35 Copper D3AA.
Yeah, that is the one thing that keeps it from being practically perfect. The price one pays for being an early adopter.
How is the button? My DA1K just came in with a metal button. It has the worst mushy button out of any flashlight I own. I’m very disappointed with the button. Everything else about the light is great, but I won’t use the DA1K with this button and will likely dispose of the light.
Jackson says:
"Button clicks are solid, very positive not spongy at all…
not overly sensitive, you have to press harder to activate the kr1aa not like the kr1/kr4. Plus is has a nice click to it when pressing the button"
I did a little experiment where I put various lights on a scale, tared it out, then pressed down until the button clicked.
My KR4 and L60 only got to ~425g; not much force at all.
My KR1AA got to ~550g, pretty close to the ~575g of the "has never turned on my my pocket* TS10.
While not slightly recessed the way a TS10 is, as befits a switch with an optional magnet, that extra stiffness helps a bit. No accidental activations yet under carry conditions that would’ve tripped an unlocked KR4 or Firefly multiple times a day.
