thank you for the great info on KR1AA switch pressure!
really helpful to know it is similar to the TS10
I agree the TS10 has high enough switch pressure resistance, that it has never turned on in my pocket
Nice. Thanks.
fwiw, Jackson is Sold Our of V1 KR1AA
next comes V2 on Hanks site.. stay tuned 
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raw aluminum with SFT70 3000K
best looking combo imo. that’s what I would have gotten, had the raw finish not been sold out. I’ll get one from Hank later. I went with gray, cause all of my Hanks are the old “gray” and iirc this is the new, actually gray gray.
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I will wait the batch from Hank because his version is compatible with untwist head and goes off. Not this batch from @JLHAWAII808 if i remember correctly
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Correct, Hanks V2 has a change to the driver contact ring so it is possible to use Physical Lockout with any battery type. (Both Button Top and Flat Top)
fwiw, the V1 batch, that Hank sold to exclusively to Jackson, does not provide Physical Lockout with Button Tops, only with Flat Tops.
this is how Jackson described V1 on his site:
Note: This will be VERSION 1 (V1) will not have mechanical “lock-out” feature (unscrewing of the tail cap/head), but you will still be able to unscrew the tail cap/head enough to break connection to the driver (only with flat top batteries).
Jacson already Sold Out All the V1. Both Hank and Jackson will offer V2 next.
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Apparently TAOBAO is selling D3AA…are they knockoffs?
Jackson didn’t sell out of KR1aa he still has a few left he just put zero stock on everything on his site so he could get caught up on orders. Site will go back online later this week. Source: Jackson made a post on FB a few hours ago.
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do you have a link in English?
Taobao is a Chinese Ebay.. maybe just a way for Hank to reach his local market?
thank you
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I think TAOBAO is exclusively in…chinese? No idea, lol. But with the way tariffs are, ordering from TB to “save” a few bucks might end up delaying the light even longer, lol. I believe the lowest preconfigured price I saw was the equivalent of $28 USD, and full customization for $42. To get shipping costs it had wanted me to log in, and I can no longer peruse the site without that annoying “install the app!” Window being spammed.
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Ah. I somehow doubt I am alone when I say, “I don’t do Facebook”.
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Just create fake account just to read this and that 
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TaoBao listing filtered through SuperBuy to get it in English (mostly)
https://s.spblk.com/aqim
thanks
not sure how to choose LED, but no matter.. Im not looking for any more D3AA.. my next object of desire is the coming KR1AA from Hank
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I wonder when KR1aa Ti will come out.
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Probably after Aluminum production costs are recovered.. Maybe February 2025?
iirc it took 2 months for the TiCu D3AA to follow the Aluminum D3AA…
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FYI, some users have experimented with modifying mushy buttons on various lights to improve the feel. I think the basic idea is usually to add some sort of filler material between the cover and the functional part of the switch to ensure a firm feel and effective transmission of the pushing force from the cover to the switch.
I think the DA1K has a threaded switch retaining ring, so hopefully it isn’t too difficult to remove it.
Here’s an example of a related discussion for the FW3A. That one has a recess molded into the cover to hold a piece of more firm material. The DA1K might look different underneath, but I think the FW3A discussion illustrates the goal of ensuring that the cover presses on the disc in the center without first starting to contact anything around it.:
Close up photos of some of the Emisar switches here:
I modded every one of my metal switch button D3AA lights by adding an o-ring between the switch and the rubber boot. Doing so increases the pressure required to activate the switch and greatly decreases the chance of acccidental pocket activation. It works well enough that lockout is no longer necessary.
I did the same with all my FW3A lights.
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That is my assumption, as well. It appears to have both a partially frosted front face, and a multifaceted interior surface. Both of those would presumably contribute to diffusing and blending the beam.
If this light is popular enough, perhaps Hank will consider some additional options:
- Clear and smooth optic for more throw, but not suited to emitters like the NTG50
- 3V driver - either boost + buck like thefreeman’s FW3AA driver, or buck only for lower cost and slightly better efficiency. The latter would not be compatible with NiMH. Just li-ion.
A 3V driver would allow a wider variety of emitters to be used, including very throwy options like the SFT25R or W1/W2.
(Edited to add - the forum software recorded this as a reply to Punga32, I assume because I started replying to one of his posts, but then realized it was clarified further down and deleted it. I guess when I then quoted one of jon_slider’s posts, it kept the prior reference. Sorry for any confusion).
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What size oring works for the fix? @Firelight2