# KronoReview: Eagle Eye X6R

For the one I’m building for my grandpa, I made a mildly complicated driver :bigsmile:

It really isn’t quite as bad as it looks

Nice! You’re getting pretty nifty at this Eagle work!

It’s something challenging to do while I wait to hear on job offers.

I’ve been trying to get the grips of it but I’m finding it really difficult. I’m not getting a lot of time to practise either just 30 mins here and there. Hopefully once I get me study all cleared out I can sit down and have a play.

Hmm. I’m no electrical engineer so I can’t explain anything, but I know I’ve only run into the “FET flash” once ever. I’ve been using PSMN3R0-30YLDX

So instead of the gate resistor, should I do a cap in series with the gate?

And how bout them measurements, Tom?

Diam (square pins), flat surface to flat surface: 0.64 mm

pin to pin (center to center): 2.36 mm

center pin to edge of board (center of pin): 1.55 mm

diameter of stock driver (piggyback board): 19.9 mm

Hope this helps...

I'm not an EE either, just a software/firmware developer. Can't recommend anything else there - waiting for dthoang's recommendations.

Thanks

Ok, so maybe someone can check my math here.

• My board is built on a grid with a midpoint of (20, 20)
• The radius of the board is 9.925mm (19.85mm diameter)
• I took 20 minus 9.925 = 10.075 (outside edge of the board at the midpoint of the vertical axis)
then added the 1.55mm setback from the edge and set the middle via at (11.625, 20)
• Then I set the other two via’s on the same horizontal axis 2.36mm apart from each other at (11.625, 22.36) and (11.625, 17.64).
• A square with 0.64mm sides has a diagonal of 0.905mm, so I set the drill diameter to 1.1mm to give a litle extra wiggle room.

Does all that sound right? If that’s all correct, then this should be ready to go.

I also enlarged the LED+ pad, and added through-holes for Pin 3 and an extra GND wire, so you can solder them through the bottom instead of running a wire around the side.

Edit: Maybe I should clarify. You don’t need to use the LED+ or GND holes, they’re just there for a lower resistance option. The driver will work just fine if all you do is connect the three main pins and add your emitter wires on top.

I think I follow the math, just going over it in my head. Finished off the board nicely with the through holes. Nice job.

Just ordered a few of these, I’ll get testing as soon as they arrive. Just need to sort out the firmware for it using the pin3 input.

Oh you did? I was just going to change something….

Its a really tiny non-functional change, but I’m a little OCD at times.

Appears I’m just too keen!

I updated the post with new pictures and links. You probably can’t even tell what I changed.

Got my 2nd X6R in today from BG - same beat up white box packaging, but breath-taking perfect condition! Love the quality and precision of the manufacturing.

The one I ordered from Aliexpress should be here tomorrow. I’m excited, but now I wish I had started on this driver sooner :~

Looks like I’ll be getting my board a bit sooner than I expected!

My X6R was delivered today, here are my impressions.

Likes:

- Ano is nice, I like it better than the super matte stuff

- the more aggressive knurling is very nice

- side-button is nicely recessed

- USB cover seems very robust and well-designed

- perfect application for a forward-clicky

• the stock UI is actually pretty nice! L>M>H>T with a good Low and well-spaced altogether. Hidden strobe by holding the side switch, and “soft” off with a double click. Mode memory when you turn off on the tail.

Dislikes:

- Clip nubs stick out too much

- tailstanding is a bit precarious like the original X6

- there is some audible whine on all of the middle modes

- works with normal-ish protected cells, but not the super long ones

• I know there had to be room for the extra electronics, but I still wish it had deeper cooling fins

Do you think it's a great deal though for \$22-\$24? I think it's outstanding. Compared to say a XinTD C8 we paid like \$30-\$32 for, this is looking real good.

True - the stock UI isn't so bad, agree. Im' not a fan of the dbl-click, but it's nice to be able to turn it OFF quickly from the side switch. I've tested them out at about 900 lumens stock, and they use the 380 mA 7135's.

It seems they really thought about the placement of the side switch - it would be hard I'd think to accidentally engage it.

Agree bout the wobbly stand, though I think it's better balanced than the X6's, not as head heavy.

I’m very impressed with mine. Mine works with protected cells tho.

Yes absolutely.

One of the few lights I would recommend to a newbie.
Doesn’t even really need modding, but I will anyways (that’s all the fun!)

Btw, it doesn’t work with protected 26f’s, but it does with protected 30b’s. The 26f’s are just a micrometer too long. Which is fine because I always use protected 30b’s in lights with built-in charging.

Hhmm, maybe the driver side spring is just too stiff? Mine is real stiff but it has the bypass wire in it, so not sure of the stock setup. A softer one would collapse, giving way to pressure. Hard to say what's really goin on there. Could even replace the driver spring with a brass button maybe, or removed it altogether - button top cells don't need a spring if you still get good compression on the tail spring.