Krono's BLF X6-SE Sample Pics & Thoughts (Pic Heavy)

LED Flashlights – General Info 18650 Flashlights
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Hello all. I am amazed at how this is coming together. Thanks again for all your patience!

Thanks to JM, unknown and Dale, we have a huge amount of info on this light…and some crazy tests! My sample came in a day later than theirs, and I am just now getting to take pictures.

There won’t be a long review, just some thoughts and pics. My overall opinion is…WOW!!! How could an inexpensive light have so much to offer? Well…I don’t know. But Eagle Eye/BG is doing it.

No…it’s not perfect. Nevertheless, this is truly a Budget Flashlight that delivers…big time! Here are some pros:

>Excellent size. Very comfortable in hand with no sharp edges. Classic, simple looking design. I was expecting it to be the size of a C8, but it is surprisingly much smaller.

>Anodization seems to be on par with many flashlights at 2 to 3 times the price. Mine matches perfectly from tailcap to head. A very nice flat black.

>My sample has no ramp-down…don’t know why…but I like it that way! The light gets hot after about 10 minutes on Turbo, but heat is surprisingly distributed very evenly throughout the aluminum shell. Heat dissipates very quickly when turned off.

>VERY bright for such a little light.

>I probably won’t use the clip, but it is very substantial…not flimsy like you would see on typical budget torches.

>Brass retainer rings and thick gold springs front and rear…nice!

>Reverse clicky with half-click advance.

>Lanyard is decent quality.

>Lubed threads…and lots of them…no skimpy short 2 or 3 turns when threading tube to tailcap or head. Lots of threads also for brass retainer rings.

>BLF Logo (from a distance).

>Unprotected or protected batteries…no problem. No battery ‘slop’ (rattling) when put together.

>Reflector gets about as tight as you can up against emitter…no space in between, and no raised emitter centering piece that could block light.

>Thread lock-out.

>Tailstands.

>Water Resistant (see JM’s vid).

>Friggin’ tough aluminum (see Dale’s vids).

Cons:
>AR lens is no good. Needs replacing with better AR lens or stock lens.

>Knurling could be a little ‘tackier’.

>BLF Logo looks a little ‘blocky’ up close.

>Amps not 3.5 (no way for me to test as I have Harbor Freight DMM…going off other sample tests).

Overall, this light exceeds my expectations for a light that will GB for /- $20. This light is a budget flashaholics dream at/- $30…and higher. The amps, in my opinion, are high enough. This little light screams as is. You could easily add amps, so I don’t really consider that much of a letdown. Nevertheless…I will see about getting it up to the desired 3.5 amps in the GB version.

Here are a few of my pics:

First…a little color.




Logo Close-Up.


In hand.

Nice machining on cooling fins.


Driver shots.

Driver side spring.

Main parts disassembled w/trusty SRM.

LED close-up.

Lit up.



Me trying to be artistic…and failing…lol

Nice threads…man!

Comparo shot: X6-SE, Sky Ray King & Convoy C8

Comparo shot: X6-SE & Convoy C8

Parting shot.

That’s it. Feel free to ask any questions.

Blessings/krono

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All right already .

When can I order ?

Cool

Edit : Where are my manners..

Thanks for the pics and thoughts kronological .

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Ha…no worries jack. I took it the way it was intended. :slight_smile:

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Fun light to take pics of isn’t it? :wink:

Looks like everybody is ready to get this show on the road, Neal’s gonna be very busy shipping!

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I think a price reduction is in order since the AR coating is a fake

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+1 :smiley: :smiley:

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Hey kronological ; You said ask questions . Here goes.

1—Lumens rating ?

2—Battery—Size(s) Can it use rechargeable & primary ?

3—Type & # of modes ?

4—Reflector—OP or smooth ?

5—Throw ?

I know that most stuff about this light isn’t final at this time.

Just let us know what you can. Thanks

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Not a word on the mode sequence!

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pics really show the great size of the light!

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This light build quality is totally qualified for the budget price. I say save a $, go with the stock lens as it is already high quality. Easy enough for someone to upgrade if they want; just swap the lens.

I think the most important thing to get right with this custom BLF light is to get well spaced 5 modes: (Really much more important than upping the current and a few more lumen on high.

Here’s where we are now:

(per DBCstm sample review:)

Moon………10.8 Lumens at .02A
Low……………55 Lumens at .08A
Med…………574 Lumens at 1.57A
High…………773 Lumens at 2.25A
Turbo…….1000 Lumens at 3.13A

Med - Turbo are crowded at the top (med is 57% of turbo with 2 ‘low’ modes). I’m really flexible on this (and can always just swap the driver out if it doesn’t work for me) but this is a good quality driver and I think we should try to get better spacing for a more useful general purpose light.

…Edit: for example, just a suggestion

Moon 5 lumen .01A
Low 55 lumen .08A
Med 200 lumen .45A
High 574 lumen 1.57A
Turbo 1000 lumen 3.13A (as currently there is no step down)

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I agree, i would want the modes to be
5 lumens…………… Moon/Super low (when you want long periods of light in an emergency or just a nightlight with superior batery life)
50 lumens…………. Low (Does most tasks without over lighting the situation)
300 lumens………… Medium (Nice and bright you can leave the light on till battery exhaustion and not overheat the light/battery and you will notice the step from medium to high)
700 lumens ………. High (should manage not to overheat the light if its in your hands till battery exhaustion)
1000+ lumens……… Turbo (for max brightness)

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I’m really interested in the Group Buy for this BLF flashlight.

I’m new to the facts about LED flashlights and I need some

answers. I see lots of people signing up for this flashlight and

pick either NW or CW.—-What’s the meaning of NW and CW ?

Some help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

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NW = Neutral White ( Warmer tint looks more like daylight )
CW = Cool White ( Colder tint looks more blueish )

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Neutral White (NW) and Cool White (CW) it refers to the tint of the light emitted from the LED. Most people tend to go with NW. I like a good, pure CW tint. Just comes down to preference really.

There are a few threads that try to show the difference between the two, but it’s really tough to actually show the real life difference in pictures. It’s more something that you have to see for yourself.

Having said that, you’ll more than likely be happy with either. :slight_smile:

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Cool White will also tend to have higher output. Some say it pierces fog and smoke better, don’t know about that.

The sample I got was Cool White, so that should be taken into consideration when looking at the output numbers I listed via my testing equipment.

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In regards to my needing help for answers to the meanings

of NW and CW for LED flashlights. HELP has arrived !!

I’m now somewhat enlightened ! Well, more then I was before. :bigsmile:

Thank you: fireblade893——unknown00101——DBCstm

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Sorry, guess we left out the pertinent information. Cool White for this light is in the 6500-6700K range, while the Neutral White is 5000K. Flash unit’s on camera’s usually fire in the 5000-5700K range, if that helps.

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1—Lumens rating ? See above posts.

2—Battery—Size(s) Can it use rechargeable & primary ? 18650 only.

3—Type & # of modes ? Samples were 5 mode, always start on low (no memory). Being evaluated for production model. See above also.

4—Reflector—OP or smooth ? Smooth.

5—Throw ? “Lux showed at 15Kcd with an extrapolated 245M throw”. (As per Dale).

Hope this helps. Thanks to others for posting most of the info already!

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Krono. I thought I'd add this pic of my 4sevens Quark 1232x2 Turbo. An excellent torch.

It reminds me a lot of the X6.

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It does look a lot alike!