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Is that the picture of the actual light you bought? If so, it looks like the “lens” in front is mainly just for decoration and to keep dust/mud out. In really nice light bars, each emitter gets a reflector. In the picture above, there are no reflectors, so it would be assumed that they used “lenses” to collimate the light. That isn’t exactly the case, though. There are only 24 “lenses” in that lens, but you say there are 90 LEDs. So, there is really no collimation. So, you can make the light much more impressive and useful just by fixing that.

The voltage range means that they used a driver that changes the voltage somehow. I would expect a simple boost driver with 9V - 32V input. Alternatively, a cheap buck driver. Buck drivers with input from a few volts up to 32 or 35 volts input are common and cheap. The input has to be a little bit higher than the output. So, if it is one of those, it would indicate the output to the emitter bank is less than 9V. The emitter bank doesn’t have to be wired in series only or in parallel only. It is probably wired in some combination, perhaps 3x series by 30x parallel.

If you really want to maximize the potential of this light bar, you should remove all the emitters from the large PCB they’re soldered to, but leave the PCB itself as a back plate. Install new emitters, on MCPCB’s, on top of the back plate. You could use individual emitter MCPCB’s or triples or quads. Add new optics for the LEDs so that each emitter has an optic associated with it. Change the front lens to smooth glass or Plexiglas or Acrylic.

The driver can probably be adjusted to output the right voltage for your new arrangement. Show a picture of the driver here, along with a confirmation of how the emitters are wired, and how your new emitters are to be powered, and someone will be able to tell you what needs to be changed to make it work.