I would do a another p-60 with 1-1.4a driver single mode. Driver potting can be done with most any epoxy like job weld. Solder all the way around the driver to pill interface.
Interesting… you’re fine with the P60 pill system.
Is there a particular reason that you would keep the amps so low?
I would assume that you meant JB Weld. I have not tested it for conductance or capacitance but I would be very worried about the steel filler powder upsetting the electronics on the driver board. Being suspended in epoxy may nullify this… I just don’t know.
I think I have some Loctite or 3M potting compound around here somewhere. Just need to find it.
I’ve read a few reports of the Convoy M1 being a good weapon mount option. I don’t have one myself but I don’t really hear anything but positive about the M1. It’s got a throwish reflector yet it’s an OP reflector so it’s not a dedicated thrower. Don’t know how that fits into your desired light pattern. Yeah I’m a known Convoy fan but there’s good reason for that. The matte black anodizing would work nicely too as a weapon mount. I think potting is probably the answer to your recoil resistance question. Most any light can be potted so much of this may come down to beam preference. If you’re truly mounting it to a shotgun a tight hotspot thrower wouldn’t be my choice. Now if it were a rifle mount I’d be looking for hardcore throw with little spill. Just my two bits…
Still though, Ouchy, you shoulda put a light on that thing!
JB Weld can be used to pot a driver, JB Weld Water Weld is a stick formulation that is like a jelly roll, one compound encased inside the other, simply cut off a piece and knead it til the color is consistent then press it into place. It’s like a clay or putty and will set in about 3-5 minutes, it can be drilled and tapped within the hour. I love how fast this is to use, but be sure you want it permanent because it’s a real chore to break into it after it hardens!
Good luck on the build. You picked the most abusive weapon to mount a light to. I’ve had unmodified Solarforces on ar-15 and ak’s work well. This is the one weapon that will kill them in a few rounds. The electronics must be epoxied in.
I have to second the Convoy M1, it is an awesome host for something like this, but it will need a forward clicky installed as well. I would go with a 3A Qlite or a FET driver from Mtn Electronics, flashed with Guppydrv.
The advantage Guppydrv will have is that you can set it up as a single mode, and lock the modes by soldering two of the stars together if I recall. You can also disable Turbo Timer or set it to whatever level you want.
Regardless, you have more versatility with this driver and the M1 with the OP reflector and a XPL HI is a very nice combo of throw and spill. I personally like the Guppydrv mode of 100% and Strobe, bump the switch for strobe, which is pretty sweet.
As much as you spend on ammo for something like that, you could just buy the light done up already like you want HERE …. What can I say, for a serious duty light like this, there is no equal on value like I have found in PflexPro lights…
I’ve got a big lawn to mow but when I’m done, I’ll read reviews on the suggested lights and the uhm… Shogun and get back to you all.
Hmm, Shogun… We could do that, right? Let me give the mounts a thought. Maybe change the thread title to “Zombie apocalypse Shogun/Shotgun”
Wow. I must be seriously afflicted with BLF. Build your own M1, buy the JB Weld, forget bypassing springs at 3A, or even 4.5A for that matter, and save the $50 for shells.
Bypassing springs is for one/two purposes… protect the springs from overheating and collapsing under load (6A and more) and gaining output through lower resistance. At the levels you’d want this light, there’s simply no need to bypass the springs. So put a Qlite with Guppydrv in the M1 for a total under $20. Pot it for less than $10 more. (a whole tube of JB Weld is less than $10) XM-L2 U4 1C on a 20mm Noctigon is what, $6? Well under $30 total, probably about $28. Less if you’ve already got an emitter sitting around. The aluminum mount is going to add heat sinking to a light that already doesn’t need it.
Well, I got the lawn mowed. Never should have let the slave labor go off and get married
That M1 is looking like a winner! Richard is out of stock on the hosts so I’ll need to do some shopping.
Anyways… I laid out some of the bits and pieces that I have to work with. The Nanjg 105c’s would involve the least effort. My concern is if the driver retainer ring would hit the 7135’s on the backside. These are 350ma 7135’s so I would stack on two or three more.
The next driver option would be to build one of Wight’s one sided DD boards. It’s been awhile since I read the support threads so I need to refresh my faulty memory. I have all of the parts and tools. I just need to remember how to build a single mode without the Atiny13.
Also what emitters won’t survive direct drive?
Took a while to get back to you. I went low amps under the assumption that you wanted a defensive light. If that’s the case, too many lumens will hurt you more than help, especially indoors. Light will reflect off walls, floors and everything else.
And yes, I typed jb weld, but autocorrect got me. I’ve used it numerous times and never had any electrical issues.
I’ll admit I’ve never run a light on a shotty, just rifles, so can’t say definitely that my suggestions will be sufficient for you. Looking forward to your build and testing
Yes this shotty sits in the corner by my bed in case the front door ever gets kicked off its hinges. I hadn’t thought about reflective light blinding me though. The 502B that I’m currently using is at best only putting out a couple hundred lumens. It needs to be much brighter. At least bright enough to join the midnight Skeet league.
DB Custom backed you on the JB Weld endorsement. I use that stuff constantly at work. I buy it in the big tubes. Right now I’m using it to glue in a few hundred high powered magnets. Never would have dreamed that it was appropriate for electronics.
Yah already, so where’s my “L2 little brother”. We could be done with this already. Just pot it and call it the shotty special.
Hi Texas Shooter, I’m surprised this light even still works. It got beat up pretty badly under the reflector when the recoil started unscrewing things.
Hi ReManG, Do you have a link for a good forward clicky?
I just happen to have a XP_L Hi. I’m working the parts to flash drivers but not there yet. So yah, Mtn would have to do it for me.
Hi DB, Is there an issue with the driver retaining ring and the 7135 placement on the backside of Quite drivers?
Well at least we are coming to a consensus.
1. Convoy M1 Host.
2. Qlite or FET with Guppydrv.
3. Pot with JB Weld.
4. Shogun target retention/stabilizer device for assured second and third shot capability
The potting will definitely help with the recoil… Foam gaskets front and rear of the battery help minimize abuse on the battery during recoil, just hit up the craft section at Wally world or wherever for the “foamie” sheets (near the felt) and cut/punch some for your battery.
Restrict the motion of the battery, most good weapon lights have a shouldered battery tube on the forward end, with a o-ring stopping the battery from slamming into the driver. You can use o-rings in front and back of the battery to allow 1-2mm of movement of the battery, and keep contact with the springs. I have a SBRemington M11 were the barrel retracts to chamber the next round, it’s very HARD on weapon lights. My favorite 1’’ tube mount is CAA Fas-2 gun mount and the Surefire M50 and M93 for integral mount lights. I like the pistol/hand grip, is that a Gun Fighter Mod4? I get rail sections/ rail mounts at David’s Collectables cheap and just as well made. http://tickbitesupply.com/
