If u were going to build or mod a lite with a single led and the objective of getting the the highest output and longest run time (assuming using a current led),
1. Which size bats would u use and would u connect them in series or parallel and why
2. Which type of driver would u use after answering 1 and why
Are these ?'s worthy of experimentation or is pushing a rock up a hill?
Well I am currently after a similar goal for use at work. However, I am also trying to keep the flashlight somewhat small, lightweight, and safe. I've decided upon a 3C Maglite running 3 NiMh C cells through a 3mode 1.4A AMC7135 driver powering an XP-G R5 neutral white. The NiMh C cells are rated at 5,000 mAh (no idea of "true" capacity). If weight and size were not an issue I'd do a 3D NiMh Maglite with 10,000 mAh capacity! These batteries are of course in series to get 3.6v. The driver is 3 mode so the light can be used in medium to conserve battery much of the time. (Although I might be interested in bumping medium up higher than the current 30% level.)
I chose the XP-G so as not to "waste" battery power on the spill and get a little bit more throw (in my case throw was needed and not much flood). After seeing how an XR-E Q5 can perform nicely without having an annoying narrow pencil beam, I might even consider it.
-Garry
Highest output along with longest run time are generally very contradictory. For highest efficient output I'd go XM-L for the emitter and a Nanjg 105 driver. For longest runtime with an XM-L I'd mod a 3D Mag and run 10,000mAh NImh cells in it in series for 3.5V and 30,000mAh of juice. Should give you 3 or so hours of run time on high (@ 850 lumen)
Hi Garry, I don't know whether or not you are interested but thetorchsite.co.uk has a drop in for the maglite c/d all cell configurations. I was asking about it on CPF a while ago. Anyway XPG R5 200lm. He has guaranteed me no issues with overheating etc. He charges £15 and it really is very impressive, I don't have any beam shots but I would also say it is more than 200lm, because it is a lot brighter than my Lenser p7 which is supposed to be 200lm as well (the lenser could be LED and the drop in OTF) and the colour is superb!. Obviously only 2 modes, on and off
I am reading this to myself and thinking, this looks like one of those spam emails, but It's not, I have nothing to do with him, he is just very nice to deal with and the drop in works superbly.
Marc.
JohnnyMac, Don't you mean 10,000mAh of juice total? The voltage adds up, but the mAh remains the same. I just don't want to confuse things.
marcl, Thanks for the info.
-Garry
Yeah, you’re right…I’m thinking parallel. I will correct. 
I would end up modding a 4D mag or similar and using it with best findable D ni-mh's and a neutral white single XM-L. Dirver would be the faomus KD 2,8A with AMC7135's. With almost 6V from 4 ni-mh's this driver should do good. At the time the current drops below 2,5A the cells are discharged heavily already. These amc based drivers are rated 6V max. 4 D ni-mh's shoudl be an excellent power source choice. Would not settle for anything less than 6000mAh from each cell (otherwise woudl go 4x3AA eneloops.). Lots of energy will be wasted but i think good regulation for around 70%+ of battery life.
Alternatively would look for a driver here if going for a single 1A emitter if the application needs one such:
Supposedly good stuff put pricey.
For absolute runtime an XP-G or XM-L led at 1,3-1,5A with 4 18650 in parallel. Should probably last an entire work day. Problem is fiding a host similar to nitecore Tiny Monster.
Bob K, Yeah I was thinking of getting one of our fine driver programmers to create a custom driver for me. I am intending on treating my "high" like a turbo mode. For this reason I'd really need my medium beefed up some. I really have no need for a very low "low".
Since you mentioned it, I did eventually want to ask you how your Mag on Alkalines project was turning out. I was interested in building some for friends and wanted to make them "user-friendly" for non-flashaholics (ie. run on alkalines). I think you were using a 2.8A driver. I'm guessing if you'd bump down to a 2.2A or 1.4A it would work better? (Sorry for pulling the thread off-topic.)
-Garry
Somehow i screwed up a reply, but i wanted to thank u guys for the iput and put me on a track that sounds like a great build: i think mag c and d will be the projects. Not sure what size i'll find in the basement, but i know i have both bodies and can't wait to get started.
cheaplite,
You can see my thread here (actually started about a Mag LED reflector in a C sized Mag, but evolved into more) and especially see Post#9. This info. might give you some info. and some supply ideas. Also watch this thread for Maglite heatsinks. I'm still a newbie at this, but am willing to offer any assistance I can. Feel free to PM me anytime.
-Garry
Certainly someone could chime in on what an amperage draw limit estimate would be for running on alkalines (C's & D's). I was guessing we could get away with 1.4A. Maybe 1.0A is more reasonable? 1A to an XM-L / XP-G is still a lot of light for a non-flashaholic!
I also thought about going with a 4D for running alkalines, but that's just too big of a light.
-Garry
The only reason i would use a 4D is almost full runtime at 2,8A with the amc driver. 3D setup will gradually drop output. To mantain 2,8A batteries shoud provide at least 4V all the time under stress. Ni-mh batteries would be best suited for this since voltage drop is minimal and they are a safe chemistry and not require really fancy treatment or charging. With 4D at 2,8A one would hopefully get at least 2h of full brightness.
I never tried this setup myself but should work prefectly fine.
Garry
What about a ssc or sst lamp?
curious about an ssc or sst application in a mag body?
My thoughts exactly!
-Garry