Hello all, I am in the process of reviewing the LM 10 in copper and I am have trouble with the light. There appears to be a connection issue that the light suffers from getting stuck in a mode and not turning off to blinking and then the E switch stops working. I have tried to clean the threads and make sure they are clean as well as atempting to tighten the head unit. I notice while tightening the head unit too much can send the light into a locked mode where i have to unscrewed and rescrew the head back on to gain control. I have heard that copper fwc has had similiar issues like this, does anyone have an lm10 in copper with same issues? Thanks!
Best refer to the FW3A thread I’d imagine, so far as I’m aware it’s basically the same. I have a FW3C and never had a single issue.
Usually when people have issues it’s something to do with that inner tube not sitting right, but obviously not always. Worth checking out that thread though.
Main thread - LINK
Troubleshooting thread - LINK
Try taking the head off, then loosening the tail slightly, then tighten the tail to the body as hard as you can. Then install a battery and screw the head on and see if it’s any better.
Thank you! I’ve been browsing the thread. It seems my issues have resided for now after I cleaned the threads and checked the battery tube contacts and also set the temperature and temp threshold in the ui. I’ll post the video review in a bit. Thank you kindly!
Thanks TJMaxx. My rpblems seem to have subsided for now! appreciate the help! 
No problem, glad you got it sorted out :+1:
Looks like the issue came back again. this time I noticed when the light gets to around 40f or is left int eh cold, the e switch does not function properly. I suspect there is an intermittent solder issue in the lm 10 e switch. Does anyone know where I can grab a replacement part?
Have you tried asking the source that gave you the defective light,
to provide you with a properly working replacement?
Yes. Though I just took it apart and will post pictures. It looks like the e switch is okay perhaps?. I suspect that the black tube isnt making contact properly. 
Now that I have it apart it appears the black tube may be just a slight bit too short when making contact with the head.
Thanks for the suggestion John. I will post updates on my findings.
Out of interest, how long is the battery - is it a button top? or protected?
Part of the reason I ask is this - Battery size: 18mm x 65mm (66mm maximum)
I believe (you’d have to check) any longer and it has caused issues - may be totally unrelated, but I thought it was worth asking.
I’ve been using a samsung 30q and a samsung 35e. Both are flat top cells.
That rules that theory out then lol! was worth checking though.
Those tubes are mass produced, I am not saying it’s impossible, but it’s unlikely it’s the wrong length. More likely would be the driver, or tail board not screwed down tight enough - that could be for a few reasons.
I expect you already have, but just check those brass retaining rings are screwed up tight (head and tail) , would be my last suggestion.
I think it’s probably time to seek advice from the vendor as suggested above. Good luck with it, lovely light btw!
Lol. thanks i appreciate it. Just took a voltmeter and tested the connections. It appears that the continuity test works with the e switch and the battery tube. The voltage was checked with two batteries and it appears the e switch is making proper contact. I’m not sure whats going on as the light will not turn on at all now after placing everything back together. It flashes once and then thats it.