I am a little confused on how to do this. For example, I have a QLITE REV.A 7135*8 3.04A driver. It has low/med/high. I want to lock it into high mode. How do I go about doing this?
I think you should solder star #1 to the outer ring, that will give you only high if im not mistaken.
Star #1 is already connected to outer ring by the copper trace under green PCB mask.
hemimike, if you want this driver to just always start on Hi - it has last mode memory, so just turn your flashlight off on Hi, and that’s it.
But if you wat to convert it permanently to Hi-only, you will need to re-flash the microprocessor.
Or you may de-solder the processor and jumper some contacts on PCB, but you will lose all the additional features like low voltage protection.
I can deal with mine the way it is, even though for some reason it won’t hold the memory for to long and defaults to low mode, but in the future I would like to lock my lights on high. Is there a different driver I can use that only locks one mode? I believe the Nanjg 106c does, but I can’t find one anywhere?
Qlite:
1st Star : 2% - 25% - 100% (Default)
2nd Star : 5% - 30% - 100% - Strobe - Beacon
3rd Star : 15% - 100%
4th Star : 5mA - 2% - 25% - 100%
Nanjg 105c http://www.fasttech.com/search?nanjg%20105c
Ya I was able to get that same information but still wasn’t sure if it was possible to lock it in at 100%. I saw a nanjg driver, thought it was a 106 but maybe it was a 105, that was a 1 mode?
Like this?
Yeah, it's either reprogram the MCU and lose low voltage protection or you can just jumper it like that driver from IOS.
Could someone explain this procedure in some detail ? Pictures would help as well . I have several lights that I would like to make one mode . For example , I would like to set my bicycling lights for one mode at 2.1 amps .
Just desolder the MCU , solder a piece of wire in it's place , and remove a chip or two ?
So I need to find a driver that has no pwm? Do they still have protection?
Um…do you want flashies at all
STAR V1.1 (custom firmware) with star 3 soldered down gives 4 levels
Turbo (wide open) w/ a timeout, high, med, low HI->LO
If star 3 is unsoldered it goes low, med, high, turbo w/ timeout LO->HI
Soldering star 4 makes it “forget” it’s memory so it always starts in the first position, so with star 3 and 4 soldered down you have HI->LO every time
You have to reflash your ATTiny13A however…that is the caveat though…new custom firmware
You can buy 2 different variants of the “stock” Nanjg 105C from FT
Variant 1: default 5-mode = Lo (5) > Mid (30) > Hi (100%) > Strobe > SOS
Variant 2: default 5-mode = Hi (100) > Mid (30) > Lo (5%) > Strobe > SOS
http://www.fasttech.com/products/1612/10001683/1122301
http://www.fasttech.com/products/1612/10001683/1232400
I think RMM sells drivers you are looking for
No protection whatsoever, there is no computer turning the 7135s on and off (that's what gives you modes and low voltage protection), they are just hard wired on 100%.
The only way to get 1 mode only and keep low voltage protection is to reflash it with a custom firmware.
So how many of you all have desoldered the microprocessor and hard wired it? What’s the risk and advantages?
Oh ya, and how can I get mine to hold the last mode memory?
There's no way for that driver to 'lose' its memory of what the last mode was, it doesn't work like that. You could just be expecting it to do something it's not capable of - it has to be ON for more than ~2 seconds before you switch it off for it to remember the last mode used. If you change modes and then turn it off after less than ~2 seconds, when it restarts it will be in the next mode instead of last mode.
Well, the 2 second thing makes sense then. I will try that and see if it works. Anyway, about removing the microprocessor?
Well, the 2 second thing makes sense then. I will try that and see if it works. Anyway, about removing the microprocessor?
I've done it before I could program the MCU. It's easy, all you need to do is remove the MCU, clean up the pads, then bridge between pin 6 and pin 8 (VCC and PWM out). The obvious risk is shorting something out, but if you're careful it isn't too bad.
Other than getting rid of the modes, what’s the advantage if any? Is it brighter or more powerful after doing this?
No other advantage, same brighness.