You ARE on MY QUEST SaltWater. Check out this thread... "Weapon Light" :https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/48995
I "JUST" wanted a light for my 6.8 SPC 20" "Pig Rig" and learned there are WAY more options than I wanted to know about. But after reading some here, (and getting some great guys' help here too), I have come to realize there isn't anything great (under $150 or so) in a tactical light (in the general finished light market). It's either too big OR overpriced (and they all have issues with the remote pressure switch losses they ALL suffer from).
After a lot of time and research these last few weeks- I found a stock light that CAN work. But the pressure switch we hunters buy for $6 and use for ANY light out there sucks by design, it (literally) "sucks" power (current) you run through them. ALL pressure switches loose a LOT of current (significantly lowering effective output from ANY hunting light) due to the long, thin wires used on ALL these remote pressure switches. The more powerful the light you use, the MORE current loss you have since these switches don't have 6 gauge wire in them (and we're talking 4V stuff here so wire thickness IS crucial to efficiency). But, you CAN buy (For like $5 plus shipping) a "FET tail switch board" :https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/48670" (you CAN use in any C8 WITH a rear click switch), Lexel sells them.
This board WORKS fantastic, and I am ALSO happy to be NOW using TINY flat wire on my AR 15 platform rig (between the light and my switch's location) since this little board (that you install into the rear switch of a light using Lexel's FET board insert) no longer drops current through thin wire (since it acts as a "signal" Vs "power" circuit/switch)-- So you CAN use extremely small wire (or if you want, the standard wire that comes with any $5 pressure switch) to "trigger" the light using Lexel's cool FET board-- AND LOOSE ZERO POWER! (and handle up to 20 amps I might add!)
I ALSO don't like stuff hanging off my AR-- it's heavy enough rigged up (9.5 lbs loaded) with the Romeo 5 red dot, 6x40mm scope, and THE light I'm about to tell you about. So to help... I am again using flat, tiny ribbon wire from a simple, tiny switch I am installing into my Magpul handle (right by the trigger... by my pinky). I'm not even using the wire or pressure switch itself that I bought originally-- tossed it in the junk drawer. And now, my upper doesn't look like it has an old telephone receiver wrapped around it!
In my mind, Lexel's FET is a "must have" for a tactical light attached to a weapon-- because it keeps it small and powerful-- and that is the goal for a hunting rig, right? (BTW: I don't sell for Lexel, he's just one of the SEVERAL smart dudes here who KNOW how to engineer some REALLY smart solutions with these little lights).
So if you read about Lexel's rear FET board (and the hunters like me that use them), you really should get one because you will be WAY ahead of the best retail "swag" sold out there IF... you go with the C8 light and Lexel's FET board. I went with the C8 for too many reasons to list, but also because Lexel makes this FET board FOR the C8 (and I realized by loosing zero power to the pressure switch-- I did NOT have to buy MORE light to get the same output using this FET board-- so a no brainer).
The C8 (for me and a lot of hunters) is the right combo of output, size, durability, and availability- a perfect light for hunting with LOTS of mods available for it too. There are MANY sellers who sell nice, well priced versions of the C8. The C8 in a more powerful version (using a GOOD 18650 battery, XPL50.2 and smarter boost driver) WILL work for hunting out to 200 yards fine-- using Lexel's board. Remember: since you start with zero loss before you consider power-- this can make the difference between a 1200 lumen Vs. 2000 lumen light to begin with!
OK, the C8 I decided to use is the DKlitker C8.2 in the latest "2600 lumen" model "here":http://www.kaidomain.com/p/S026928.KDLITKER-C8_2-Cree-XHP50_2-Neutral-White-5000K-2600-Lumens-5-Mode-LED-Flashlight-Black You have to work around the modes, but for an off the shelf C8 it's got some serious output compared to a LOT of lights out there in it's category/size range. For the money ($30 delivered) I can't find much better (right now anyway) unless I built one with a better boost driver for more $. I own it, it's well made, and the seller is responsive to questions. I used a simple short/mini rail mount to mount it to my scope's body (1") then used a fast release 1" scope ring (which fits the light's body perfectly tightening up as it's 1" thick too) to mount the light to the mini-rail. Comes off-and-on in a second or two- tops. The C8 light is also still easy to handle/manage (with the scope ring left on it) when detached from the rifle.
I need to get pics up, but you get the idea and using ANY light that can use Lexel's FET board is a big (and cheap enough) step in the right direction if it's going on a gun! Good luck dude!