Long throw 18650 powered budget light

Anyone selling modded Convoy C8’s?

Or have suggestions for a long rang weapon mountable
( 25mm or 30mm tube)

I’m not into building lights yet, I don’t need another expensive hobby.

I am an avid outdoorsman and gun nut. I like budget lights that outperform the expensive name brand stuff.

I am looking for long throw lights for night hunting. I purchased an Odepro kl52, and an Orion M30c and they both work pretty well for my uses, but they are a little big.
I am looking for something with as good or better throw, with a smaller head.

Emisar D1? Emisar D1S? Not sure if these are weapon mountable, but they throw very well for their size.

PFlexPro sells modded C8s that might interest you. They’re fully potted and thus very durable/rugged.

Most common options are the Convoy C8 and the new Sofirn C8T on a budget.

Of course there’s the emisar d1 or d1s as well.

200+ yards.


Maxtoch 2X is an epic rifle mounted light, 500m with huntable amounts of light on target achievable - personally I only go after rabbits at night so it’s far more than I need and end up using my c8 far more often

You ARE on MY QUEST SaltWater. Check out this thread... "Weapon Light" :https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/48995

I "JUST" wanted a light for my 6.8 SPC 20" "Pig Rig" and learned there are WAY more options than I wanted to know about. But after reading some here, (and getting some great guys' help here too), I have come to realize there isn't anything great (under $150 or so) in a tactical light (in the general finished light market). It's either too big OR overpriced (and they all have issues with the remote pressure switch losses they ALL suffer from).

After a lot of time and research these last few weeks- I found a stock light that CAN work. But the pressure switch we hunters buy for $6 and use for ANY light out there sucks by design, it (literally) "sucks" power (current) you run through them. ALL pressure switches loose a LOT of current (significantly lowering effective output from ANY hunting light) due to the long, thin wires used on ALL these remote pressure switches. The more powerful the light you use, the MORE current loss you have since these switches don't have 6 gauge wire in them (and we're talking 4V stuff here so wire thickness IS crucial to efficiency). But, you CAN buy (For like $5 plus shipping) a "FET tail switch board" :https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/48670" (you CAN use in any C8 WITH a rear click switch), Lexel sells them.

This board WORKS fantastic, and I am ALSO happy to be NOW using TINY flat wire on my AR 15 platform rig (between the light and my switch's location) since this little board (that you install into the rear switch of a light using Lexel's FET board insert) no longer drops current through thin wire (since it acts as a "signal" Vs "power" circuit/switch)-- So you CAN use extremely small wire (or if you want, the standard wire that comes with any $5 pressure switch) to "trigger" the light using Lexel's cool FET board-- AND LOOSE ZERO POWER! (and handle up to 20 amps I might add!)

I ALSO don't like stuff hanging off my AR-- it's heavy enough rigged up (9.5 lbs loaded) with the Romeo 5 red dot, 6x40mm scope, and THE light I'm about to tell you about. So to help... I am again using flat, tiny ribbon wire from a simple, tiny switch I am installing into my Magpul handle (right by the trigger... by my pinky). I'm not even using the wire or pressure switch itself that I bought originally-- tossed it in the junk drawer. And now, my upper doesn't look like it has an old telephone receiver wrapped around it!

In my mind, Lexel's FET is a "must have" for a tactical light attached to a weapon-- because it keeps it small and powerful-- and that is the goal for a hunting rig, right? (BTW: I don't sell for Lexel, he's just one of the SEVERAL smart dudes here who KNOW how to engineer some REALLY smart solutions with these little lights).

So if you read about Lexel's rear FET board (and the hunters like me that use them), you really should get one because you will be WAY ahead of the best retail "swag" sold out there IF... you go with the C8 light and Lexel's FET board. I went with the C8 for too many reasons to list, but also because Lexel makes this FET board FOR the C8 (and I realized by loosing zero power to the pressure switch-- I did NOT have to buy MORE light to get the same output using this FET board-- so a no brainer).

The C8 (for me and a lot of hunters) is the right combo of output, size, durability, and availability- a perfect light for hunting with LOTS of mods available for it too. There are MANY sellers who sell nice, well priced versions of the C8. The C8 in a more powerful version (using a GOOD 18650 battery, XPL50.2 and smarter boost driver) WILL work for hunting out to 200 yards fine-- using Lexel's board. Remember: since you start with zero loss before you consider power-- this can make the difference between a 1200 lumen Vs. 2000 lumen light to begin with!

OK, the C8 I decided to use is the DKlitker C8.2 in the latest "2600 lumen" model "here":http://www.kaidomain.com/p/S026928.KDLITKER-C8_2-Cree-XHP50_2-Neutral-White-5000K-2600-Lumens-5-Mode-LED-Flashlight-Black You have to work around the modes, but for an off the shelf C8 it's got some serious output compared to a LOT of lights out there in it's category/size range. For the money ($30 delivered) I can't find much better (right now anyway) unless I built one with a better boost driver for more $. I own it, it's well made, and the seller is responsive to questions. I used a simple short/mini rail mount to mount it to my scope's body (1") then used a fast release 1" scope ring (which fits the light's body perfectly tightening up as it's 1" thick too) to mount the light to the mini-rail. Comes off-and-on in a second or two- tops. The C8 light is also still easy to handle/manage (with the scope ring left on it) when detached from the rifle.

I need to get pics up, but you get the idea and using ANY light that can use Lexel's FET board is a big (and cheap enough) step in the right direction if it's going on a gun! Good luck dude!

Well Throw me, — you have more lights than me and I’m a new guy and so I can respect your “bollock’ing” opinion, but only to a degree. WHY would you not recommend this light on a weapon? I ask because I was told by several it would be a good, small, powerful light that is well built and had a boost driver that creates about 2000 lumen from the XHP50.2. Its has done all that well (so far).

IN MY TESTS (on my 6.8 SCP firearm) out to 200 yards: THIS light has plenty of output for scope shots, it runs on turbo a LONG time (about 33 - 45 minutes) AND compared to a LOT of “throwers” there is a nice amount of flood out there at 200 yards (again…compared to my limited stash of lights). For hunting, I like to have the extra field of view which this light gives me out pretty far too. Hey, I’m not trying to light up the pasture as much as get enough light to see the pig and drop it within seconds of turning on the light.

Also, I wanted to explain to SaltWater the BIGGER issue— the “remote pressure switch loss problem” with 99% of the stuff floating around out there for sale (most of it for the C8, BTW). Because THAT is THE BIGGER problem with MOST gun light set-ups we hunting types end up getting into (using these small boosted C8s, or whatever light). And IF you by chance ever owned and used an AR15, you’ll appreciate the cleaner weapon using Lexel’s FET board and small wires all around- it’s a TRUE game changer for me. And so for $30 delivered, a good $5 30Q battery (and Lexels $5 FEt)… I certainly could be doing worse that this KDlitker light!

So for me… I haven’t had problems SO FAR with this light: it stays VERY bright, will work all night (on one battery, as I use it ONLY for a few seconds while taking final shots, after finding the pig with night vision or by other means). But I admit… even though it tested fine at the range during the day… I haven’t used it ON the gun, IN the field, at NIGHT yet. But that is the goal and I’m feeling READ good about this set-up as tested.

But again… IF going with a C8 size/weight light (like a lot of hunters do), why NOT the boosted XHP50.2 with a good battery? And remember, I’m not suggesting a $200 solution as SaltWater (like me) clearly is a frugal guy who likes DYI (why he is here, like the rest of us BLF’ers :wink:

Oh, “work around the modes” = having to remember to use a longer time-frame between turning the light on- SO IT STAYS in turbo mode. The cheaper pressure switch “glitches” if you don’t get it right the first time— and HOLD it. Thankfully, my light doesn’t change modes as much with my pinky switch (a “glitch free” switch)… AND between shots, I haven’t had the light act-up (again… so far as tested during the day, the light stays on between shots— and stays in turbo). So I haven’t had to “pot” the electronics yet… but some say it’s a good idea.

And I’m very interested in your opinion of a light similar in size that would better fit a weapon mount format! Please share your opinion there!

I was about to post my new Klarus XT12S (single 18650, 402m max beam distance, designed with weapon mount in mind) for sale for 45 usd. It is in brand new condition. If you’re interested, let me know before I post soon.

I know the design of the Klarus drivers, this design will not like recoil at all, the inductor sits on a seperate board that is not connected to the head in any kind just to another board

So recoil will break this boards connection after shooting a lot, many multi board drivers suffer from breaking traces where one board is connected to another

As nquinn recommended I vote the Sofirn C8T.

You asked for budget priced and modded C8, this is basically a factory modded C8 at a budget price.

Only thing I’d like for different for the purpose is a forward momentaty switch, but probably not necessary unless your were going to use a pressure switch, which most of thoses wouldn’t handle the current of this or a modded C8 anyhow. -But I think Lexel has a solution for that. (requires modding ability / knowledge)

Maxtoch M24 Sniper

Maxtoch Shooter 2s

Maxtoch 2X Shooter

Maxtoch Shooter 2x Red

Maxtoch Shooter 2x Green

If you look at the lights in my signature, that was the order in which I progressed as purchased.
Mostly all throwers.

You say you want to see some reviews?

Hey Throw Me… - why you so mad???

You are (obviously) very opinionated and like what you like, fine. But no confusion here sir— rest assured, I HAVE tested and used this light ON A GUN and I’m pretty sure— you have not. My opinion IS based on SOME testing and actual use of THIS light on a GUN— is yours?

I KNOW this rig will work to 200 yards (for me, just fine) despite your negative rhetoric. But why don’t we let Salt Water (and other readers) decide what they want to decide. We ALL have opinions— including MINE which differs from yours— but you don’t need to take this all down the the level you have, TWICE now.

To clarify… I have tested this light (daytime with recoil at my range) and it held turbo, shot-to-shot AND it’s been tested at night (at range) and my scope picks it up just fine (out to 200 yards). So I have no reason to think it won’t do the same— WHEN I take it on my hunt this spring. This is because I HAVE ALSO killed (out to 120+ yards) with an older C-8 style light (a cheap one with the cheap older tail-switch). It worked fine enough and was WAY less powerful than this light I have now— LOTS of pigs in the last 30 years (with lots of cheaper lights being used)… I have put several thousand lbs. of pork in my freezer- most shot (or trapped) at night.

So my experience is indeed based on MY many years of night hunting (with all kinds of lights). Can I get more light out there??? YES… but there is what CAN be done and what NEEDS to be done. I’m a “need enough” kinda guy who makes due with what I have (being a 7th generation rancher, I know how to use limited resources to get MANY things done with what I have).

Maybe you should stick to making points (agree or disagree) and trying to be reasonable (and friendly) with your proposals here (Vs. attacking me).

I think the majority of BLF folks would ALSO agree (in any case)… that there is no need to get rude while you express your VERY differing opinion (which I don’t share based on more time in the field than most people).

And again… my original post was MOSTLY addressing remote tail switch losses! Despite WHAT light I (or you) use… that FET board from Lexel IS a REAL advance to we who wish to push SMALL lights hard on a GUN (like MANY here).

Let us agree to chill (and disagree if we must) Long Throw. But let’s be civilized while we are at it, ok?

Russ in Kansas

Good tips and info here. But no need for the pissing match. Thanks for all the help guys.
Any chance u could send a detailed parts list with links Zapp?

And people never listen when I suggest they get a nice simple stoopit 1-mode driver… :smiley:

Lightbringer... I LOOKED EVERYWHERE for a GOOD single mode light in a brighter C8 form factor-- can't agree more with you there! And, as Saltwater is looking for an off-the-shelf light with that mode, I'm sure he'd be interested in knowing of any out there. I asked around here and looked around on the internet, but shy of $100+ I really could not find anything (that also ran on a 16850-- not ready for the NEXT battery yet I guess ;)

And I NOW know that a "simple" (boost) driver is a must have for MY single LED C8 using the 50.2 LED. Hard to find one anywhere with a single mode (or the cost goes up with "custom" drivers that have the memory to do single mode-- IF one is willing to do SOME modifying).

Again, always balancing cost and performance-- why BLF exists I think!

Cheers Ears!

Yep, but I’ll need a day or two to dig it all up.

WHEN you see my rig, you will see how I used these cool 1” mini-rails to set up 1) the red dot and 2) the C8 light. Here is the rails I talk about:

Cheap yes, but they are GREAT, clean rails with good solid fasteners- they hold nicely and the finish is excellent. Both mounted to my Weaver 1” perfect. (ship from China, so 2 weeks to get them). - I shopped around and bought a FEW rails— these were the clear “wieners” because you can FIT them nicely onto limited scope tube real estate… and still hold a red dot or light VERY firmly.

You know where to get your Tail FET boards (just PM Lexel).

Like I said, I scrapped using the run-of-the-mill pressure switch (they REALLY do glitch too much too). I HAVE a good solid button switch I AM working on drilling into my handle (need a day without distractions). But tested this switch and I will use VERY TINY FLAT (black) ribbon wire (through one of my AR’s Yankee Hill barrel’s bolt holes- like the gas tube runs through) to get from my button switch to the back of the light. This wire will go just out far enough to get through my hand rail- then pop-out right at the back of the light (and I am using a fast disconnect plug there so I can easily disconnect and pull the light itself off quickly- without needing to unscrew the tail cap before taking it off. SO it’s a CLEAN (light) “trigger job” since with the FET board— no need for larger wires- remember. They stay UNDER the hand rail and are OUT of the way compared to the usual (12” phone cord) pressure switches!

I’ll get a pic up soon- with MOST stuff mounted and ready, except for the custom switch. Then we can answer any other questions you have.

I KNOW how long this can all take, but once you get your light picked out— it will go pretty fast AND if you go with a larger reflector, you can use a “tall” scope ring to mount it (if you use the rails above the way I did- pic to come). My C8 needed a “medium” and it’s reflector is just behind the forward (40mm) bezel of my scope — perfect spot). BUT… I will say that IF you go with a way larger light— you’ll need to maybe look for something that will mount to your main rails (all depends on your AR set-up); I use a smooth solid handle on my weapon. I hate mud and gunk getting up in there and it cools fast enough as I’m not a 50 round in 1 minute shooter. So no quad rails for me… too many and extra places that hang up on everything I have to go through on any night hunt about anywhere. Guess I’m old school as far as ARs go.

Stay tuned for a pic in a day or two.


Easiest to mod is the older C8 (type I) with the brass pill. Treat it like any drop-in with your choice of emitter and (17mm) driver. The type II has the integrated shelf, also 17mm hole for the driver. Even newer ones might take larger drivers, don’t recall (ie, ain’t got).

You can use a real 1-mode driver that only really goes up to 1750mA or so, or lobotomise a 105C by hardwiring the 7135s constant-on (a small solder-blob does it) to get up to 2.8A. If you want to go the FET route, dunno if any are 1-mode, but you can try it.

Go crazy…

This is good info… wish I had it last month too :wink:

On single mode drivers: I started with several messages to Lexel when working on my gun light here last month. He said he (and another forum member) are working on a NEW driver that will be able to run “one mode” settable (into memory) and nicely boost a 50.2 (and maybe a 70.2) running on a good 16850. I am buying a pair of his Narsil drivers (for my C8F kits on the way— yes I’m addicted at this point) and they ALSO will hold memory for one (on/off) mode (and I think also manage the side switch on that particular C8 too- a neat benefit.) But as I understand it, I’ll still need to switch back to the old tail cap (no FET clicky switch) to use the Narsil drivers with multi-modes and that side switch on the C8F.

Very cool driver, I’m looking forward to getting it. I could use it with a Lexel FET board modded clicky in one mode for say HUNTING (in full Turbo), then take it when (not) hunting… simply flip the tail switch back to the original (non clicky) tail cap, and then have a multi-mode, full featured light.

On another note… the C8 host I ALSO ordered WITH the C8F kits from Sofirn, had a choice of a 17mm or 20 (or maybe 22mm) driver space and I went with the larger one. I got it because it was cheap and I figured I could always fall back on it (with my C8F or another light) if needed. I can always glue (or “pot”) a board, but if it doesn’t fit to begin with— let’s just say I don’t own a lathe :smiley:

No such thing as a free lunch mate. Long throw comes from big reflectors or lenses that catch and collimate the maximum amount of light the emitter produces.

The KL52 / B158 isn’t a big light by any means and with the likes of the XP-L Hi in it, you’ll be hard pressed to find anything to out throw it. with a smaller head.