I have a sunwayman V10r+ and a V10r and I am missing one of the insulation gaskets (I bought it that way). Also, the reflector on one has a small line, so I would like to be able to replace it.
I looked in KD but could not find a reflector or gasket that would fit.
These are the details on the gasket and the reflector:
Any help finding a compatible reflector and insulation gasket would be greatly appreciated.
Pretty sure these centering rings will work if you cut them down.
These gaskets are for 3535 led, assuming your doing a emitter swap, they do also have 5050 size if you need those.
I dont have a clue about a replacement reflector.
After looking around KD for a bit, I found this.
http://kaidomain.com/S023036-18mm-D-x-15_5mm-H-SMO-Aluminum-Reflector?
Might require some filing to fit.
Thank you moderator007. I have some of these gaskets on order and was planning to do that as a last resort.
I have read that reflectors are very delicate. Won’t filing destroy it? Also, if a reflector has dust on it, how do you suggest removing the dust without causing damage?
You just have to be careful filing it to not touch the inside reflective surface. To clean the debris out, I hold it under the faucet full blast. Cleans all the debris out but, must be dried quickly or you’ll get water spots. Use a hair dryer or hot air station on low setting to blow the water out. I have tried to remove fingerprints using a micro cloth, still leaves some very fine scratch’s but perfectly acceptable. Better than looking at finger prints. It’s best to not touch the inside with anything except pressured air or water. 
I would rinse as Moderator007 said and after all debris have been flushed out, do a final rinse with distilled water then blow off any remaining water and let air dry. there should not be any water spots.
To prevent debris and dust on the reflective surface you could wrap it in Saran Wrap and just uncover the part that is to be filed.
Thanks, I will give it a try.
Received Kaidomain Reflector 23036 for testing in a V11r that originally came with a 6000k XM-L2
I swapped in a Nichia E21a 3500k. Success! High CRI:
This is with the stock V11r Reflector and Centering Disc:
The extra large bottom opening of the XM-L2 reflector, makes me think some glow tape would be nice around the E21a LED 
The hotspot itself is very nice as is, and the Color Rendering is fantastic. The modded light is very useable, just not “perfect”, yet 
Next objective is to eliminate the dark shadow around the corona, and strong outer ring, in the spill:
My first test was to drop the 23036 reflector into the V11r stock Centering Disc. Fail:
Stay tuned for our Next installment, when the V11r Centering Disc is traded out for the Kaidomain 24680 Centering Butterfly.
Sweet JS!
I was about to press ORDER on KD for this sucker.
I’ll wait a bit just to see how’s your mod doing.
Thx
the reflector is sitting too high in the stock centering disc… just be sure to order the Kaidomain centering rings to match the reflector
Im wary because I damaged the phosphor on one of my E21a while fiddling to get the 24680 butterfly over the E21a (there is no dome to protect it, and my hands shake).
The butterfly is thinner than the stock V11r centering disc, but it did not work in my RRT-01 when I tested the E21a w Kaidomain reflector 23424 (not the stock one), that works well with 219b.
all thanks to moderator007 for researching and sharing all these Kaidomain parts for our magnetic rotary LED swaps
Thanks for the update jon_slider. I ordered a few of these reflectors a few days ago to try out in the V11R.
That’s what it looks like to me too, the reflector is to high. These might work better with the taller 219B or LH351D.
The E21a seems to be harder to dial in just right. Im wondering what would happen if you filed a few thousandths off the bottom of the reflector.
You might have to take one for the team to find out.
The Kaidomain reflector has a lip protruding around the lens side opening. It does not drop down far enough to press on the kaidomain centering ring, and does not drop down far enough to let the bezel screw all the way down. Fail.
I dont have a micrometer yet, so cant verify the OD of the KD reflector is larger than the ID of the V11r head, but that appears to be the case at this stage of my education.
I could have figured that out if I had put the stock reflector and the kaidomain reflector against each other, but it did not occur to me until I finished closing the light back up with the stock reflector and centering disc… which works well enough for Government Work… lol
and yes, I will happily destroy some parts to help the Team.
fwiw, pol77 posted above that the stock reflector is 18.1 mm and the kaidomain reflector spec is 18 mm, so I dont know what Im doing wrong… maybe there is interference not from the lip at the lens end, but one of the other contours further down the side of the reflector interfering with the ID of the V11r head as it tapers further down, closer to the LED… not sure.
Something, somewhere, is keeping the kaidomain reflector from dropping in… some meticulous grinding on the outside of the KD reflector may be in order. It might help to have some carbon paper to figure out where the contact point is, that is preventing the reflector from dropping all the way down to contact the MCPCB, and preventing the bezel from screwing tight.
Yes the MCPCB could be raised, with thermal tape or thin copper sheet, but that wont solve the bezel not closing…
.
.
unrelated to reflectors, but related to V11r lumen range
this light has an extremely low Low of 0.01 lumens, and it was not modified to achieve that. The high mode is also lower than spec. Both those statements are true even with the stock LED.
I suspect that the position of the magnets, note they are not centered in the slots, provided the shift in brightness. I happen to Love the lower Low… It is possible I could regain the stock High mode by repositioning one of the magnets… not sure which one though
.
.
I think those two lights use different LEDs, and I suspect different reflectors and centering devices…
let me know if I labeled incorrectly, the V10r Ti reflector, and V10r Ti+ Gasket, you posted
the gasket in my V11r does look like the one you posted, that I labeled V10r Ti+, it has the same lip, that faces down towards the LED, and the same tapered indent, that receives the V11r reflector for XM-L2, properly. (forgot to take a photo of the V11r reflector…)
jon_slider, both my V10r Ti and V10r+ Ti came with XP-G2 emitters. I did a direct LED swap to Nichia 219b on the original MCPCB.
pics of the reflector centering rings
waiting for a few more E21a 3500k from Clemence before I test the E21a beam in the V10r Ti
meanwhile… v11r w 3500k E21a
update
installed E21a 3500k in V10r Ti
both are imperfect in the spill, the XP-G2 reflector is a bit better than the XM-L2 reflector
both are using stock centering rings for respective reflector
in actual use the XP-G2 reflector is very nice, the outer ring is not very noticeable. otoh, the XM-L2 reflector produces a more obvious dark ring in the spill outside the corona.
both E21a LEDs are on Clemences 10mm board. The solder points required me to do some cutting on the underside of the centering rings to help clear the solder points… work in process. And centering is entirely manual, I have no ring that will center to the E21a itself…
I think in both lights the reflectors are sitting too far above the LED. More testing required, possibly with just some Kapton tape and no centering ring, in order to move the reflector lower in relation to the E21a. Plus some thermal tape to raise the height of the E21a MCPCB to meet the reflector. Else ultimately it may just require a pebble TiR to cope with the reflector mismatch…
V10r Ti w E21a 3500k 220 lumen max, 0.02 min
V11r w E21a 3500k 290 lumen max, 0.01 min
Update
We have a Winner!
I put 4 layers of .1mm thermal tape
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MSL64XG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
under the E21a board and added some captan tape
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00W3FAFP0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
to protect the solder points. Removed the stock centering ring and tightened the bezel down.
got the best beam Ive seen so far…
the one on the left is the best so far:
