It’s good info for me. When I look up brightness specs of a light I try to find runtime reviews and start looking for the highest output the light can sustain for 30 minutes. Everything that ramps down sooner I call turbo.
Quite often the mode spacing is odd. For sake of explanation let’s assume I want 300lm output.
The light offers 200lm that doesn’t step down.
The 800lm turbo steps down 300lm and stays at that level for a while.
So, to get my 300lm I need to use 800lm first.
The first 30 minutes… I do exactly the same.
Yes, it can be interesting reading run time reviews and it’s often disappointing how short a lot of flashlights can maintain even their highest (non turbo) setting.
That’s where Anduril comes into it’s own. You can set it up to ramp up or down smoothly or in steps. You’re not stuck with preset mode levels. You instantly can access moonlight (which is adjustable) by a click- short hold , or turbo by two clicks, or whatever the last setting used was by a simple click on (I’m sure memory could be turned off too if desired.) It’s a steep learning curve in the advanced mode but worth it. Both the TS10 and SP10 Pro use Anduril 2. The TS10 has auxiliary lights, but to me they’re not much use with such a small capacity battery. You can also change the ramp down temperature with Anduril e.g. experiment and set it higher to keep the “turbo mode” going for longer.
I think @jon_slider mentioned that the TS10 could maintain 300 lumens with the a 50 degree thermal setting.
I have the top of ramp set so I get about 300 lumens at the top. Honestly I have not pushed it beyond maybe 10 minutes. I really haven’t used Turbo for more than 10 seconds to show it off… It does start to get hot. But really, if I need more output, I just use a bigger light that is more suited for doing it. Still, the TS10 is the one in my pocket everyday. I do have a few SP10 PROs too, but for the size, versatility and the tail switch, I pick the TS10 every time.
I have the AUX lights turned off. With my usage (mostly at level 3 to 10 of 150) I only charge the thing about once per month (when the voltage check says 3.9V). Great little light.
Maybe @ZoomieFan it has a few compromises from your wish list, but I bet you would love it if you got one… and they are cheap to try.
How firm is the “no parasitic drain” requirement here? Because that rules out several lights. Some of the e-switch lights have very little with the aux turned off but there is always some, and we’re talking about small 14500 cells. Is that imperative to have zero drain, like you’d need a mechanical switch instead?
Yes. A mechanical switch or a twisty or mechanical lockout are the only ways to fully avoid parasitic drain.
Which rules out the SP10 PRO or TS10 (though you can loosen the tail cap on the SP10 to kill the drain). But with either, if one is conscientious and tops them off occasionally, no problem.
Both of mine don’t get used a lot and have literally been sitting for a couple of months (4+ ?) and the 14500 batteries haven’t been depleted. (I have the aux turned off on the TS10.)
Here’s an older post from the SP10 Pro thread:
So it’s really miniscule.
Isn’t the Skilhunt E2A pretty much perfect?
@ZoomieFan Have you looked at the Acebeam Pokelite AA in Copper? The copper is running the 519a 5000K emitter (instead of the 219F in the aluminum ones) , High CRI, No extreme center hot spot (Just a well defined circle), Accepts both aa and any 14500, and no parasitic drain! I think this one checks all the boxes for you!
Does that mean that turbo’s on both light can be configured away or hidden.
If so, then turbo no longer is an issue
Yes. Set it to no TURBO, only ceiling
Blockquote Cythras
Isn’t the Skilhunt E2A pretty much perfect?
+1. This really does seem like what OP is looking for (stock without having to modify). Very under rated light IMO.
I really like the physical design of the E2A. It’s one of the smallest tail clicky AA lights I’ve seen, it feels good in the hand, and the beam profile is perfect for my use. But for a couple reasons, I decided not to recommend it. I reference Zeroair’s review even though he does not have a solid calibration source because his method is consistent, and his measurements end up similar to those made by others (1lumen also tested this light):
It’s not actually floody. Personally, I think the pebbled TIR they use is the best feature of the E2A. It makes an even hotspot with a smooth fade, but minimal spill that looks just about perfect as an EDC-type light. However, it’s a general purpose beam, rather than a floody one. Zeroair measured about 10 candela/lumen. I would generally describe beams of less than 5 candela/lumen as floody, although there’s no strict limit.
It doesn’t meet the claimed specs. Zeroair measured 300 lumens on 14500 for the high CRI. That suggests the low CRI version would probably get around 400 lumens, and the SST-20 isn’t known for good tint in its low CRI versions.
Part of the reason it doesn’t meet its specs is because it is not very efficient. Based on Zeroair’s measurements, it’s performance on lithium ion is comparable to simple PWM linear drivers, and it’s performance on AA is even lower. This surprises me in part because Skilhunt can make good drivers. The M150 performance looks great.
For the use I bought the E2A for, high efficiency wasn’t critical, and I like the physical design well enough to overlook it. Since ZoomieFan wants 14500 support for the increased energy density, the Skilhunt’s relatively low efficiency doesn’t seem like a great fit.
So my first recommendation remains to try a floody TIR in the Tool AA they already have.
With all that said, if they want to try another light and see if the runtime and beam width are acceptable for their needs, I really do like the ergonomics, compact size, and smooth beam of the E2A.
If you’re using the normal ramping brightness you won’t get it to go as high as turbo. You need to double click to turn turbo on. (At least that’s how mine are set up.)
I thought you were looking for an honest politician when I read the thread title 
Getting close here!
Their site isn’t listing the specs. Or I’m overlooking them…
Can’t find the color temp. According to the specsheet of the led it comes in 2700, 3000, 3500, 4000K
Halfway the page is a picture showing the benefits of high CRI, but it shows 85+ while when I Google the specs of the led I find 95
Anyway getting somewhere…
I’m too old for such dreams 
300, and even 400 are far from the claimed 600.
Where does the difference come from I wonder.
If the driver just gives less juice and therefore the lumen go down but the runtime goes up, it might be acceptable.
But if all those lumens are wasted on inefficiency, that would be bad.
Could it be that the claimed 600 is measured without any optics, lens etc?
I have their H04 RC headlamp nice overall light and hard to make the following claim: When that small lens door is closed the light is more floody as I want it to be, but it also seems some lumens get lost in that plastic.
It may be overrated, but also note that 600lm is going to be at the coldest CCT, and in general warmer temps and high CRI come at the expense of sheer output/efficiency. The E2A comes in 6000k, 5000k and 4000k, with only the 4000k being 95CRI, being the one tested.
There is a lot off room in testing
they measure with effients LED, non high CRI, 6000k
they measure a prototype and the production LED is different, another batch. Or you can cerry pick a LED for testing.
Use the best battery, not the included.
Direct fresh of the charger.
flexibility with 30sec from turn on.
Rounding.
When you are in production you get suddenly less good parts from the supplier.
Or you use a substitute part.
Optic gets a slightly thicker coating …