If your purpose is photography, I would point you to a light with a driver with current regulation, which would maintain constant brightness. Since Zebralight is not low budget, then probably look at a Convoy S2, $16-$25. You can find a Convoy S2 with a warm emitter, and/or HighCRI Nichia 219c, and sometimes configure it that way during purchase, and I am told the drivers are constant current and current regulated. There are so many configurations available, it is a little overwhelming when searching for what you want, so give yourself time and don’t expect it to be quick and easy. Check the official store at gearbest.com (which will have the most configurations), nealsgadgets.com (best price), amazon.com, aliexpress.com, and finally banggood.com (I am unable to use this last site, totally whacked, but before the radical site changes forcing mobile devices to use the unusable mobile version of the site, I had ordered from there without issue).
Here is one you can configure to 3000K-3500K with Cree XM-L2, making it difficult to tell if its CRI (Color Rendition Index) will be 85 or 90. Incandescent light sources are CRI 100, so the higher the CRI the better.
I could not find a dedicated tripod mount for this light, but as you can see, this light has a simple cylinder design, and you can get creative with mounting, like using a mic clip and mic stand, or something like this mini tripod.
Convoy S2+ are 18650 Li-ion flashlights, and Li-ion takes a minimum of education for running safely. There are various chemistries, and one of them, ICR (LiCo), requires a protection circuit to prevent the cell from dropping below 2.5V, because if it does and is placed back on a charger very bad things can happen. IMR (LiMn) and INR (LiNiMn) do not require protection circuits because they can tolerate dropping below 2.5V with only a hit to their max. capacity.
When purchasing cells, pay attention to the specification concerning the maximum continuous discharge, and exceed or match that to your flashlight’s current draw. The current specs on the light I linked to above are not listed, but it is likely to be below 2A, and most 18650 should be able to handle that.
You will need a Li-ion charger, of which there are many. I use a NiteCore Digicharger D4 because it is cheap and simple to use. D4 is getting hard to find, but NiteCore has more recent chargers.
For best performance, always rest your cells after use and before charging, and after charging and before use, one hour should do. Always be aware of the state of charge of your cells.
If Li-ion batteries scare you off, then I recommend spending more and getting the Zebralight SC5c II, AA only, Eneloop recommended, current regulated for constant brightness in all modes with a high CRI Cree XP-L2 EasyWhite emitter.
my 2 cents: I would suggest to totally forget about High CRI, since you don't need to care about that in your setting. It's like 0 importance. You don't want to go that route, KISS. ;)
Wow! It is impressive how detailed your answer is! Thank you so so much.
I will go into a deep reasearch with your examples. I am curious what flashlight it will be. I let you know.
No… thank you! I have been meaning to get an S2+ for about 2 months, and you helped me off the couch. I ordered the AliExpress grey Convoy S2+ in 2700K and 2.8A, plus other stuff.
God, I hope those KeepPower IMR18650 3500mAh are legitimate. Best price I have seen, and I need these for another light, 3x18650 Leef KT4 G4 halogen bipin build I am expecting in the next 6 weeks.
Oh, yes, she will be mine.
AliExpress drives me crazy. First transaction purchasing all in one declined by my credit card fraud protection. Had to order each separately using PayPal, then cancel the original order 4 times, then deal with the fraud protection agency to let them know the transaction (which I had to cancel for each item) was legit so they don’t cancel my card. I also wanted to order 1x5mm neodymium magnets, but AliExpress seller wouldn’t accept PayPal, so I found a competing Chinese seller on eBay that would. One simple transaction turned into a 4 transaction nightmare plus fraud protection annoyance. I don’t expect everything to finally get here until the first week of December. [sigh]. YMMV
A powerful mule plus aperture might be a solution, too. Difficult to find a reflector that’s really heavily structured to allow for an even and wide hotspot.
Edit: Astrolux FT03S, open bezel, take reflector out, put bezel back on and ready it is.
IMHO, either a TIR or reflector will give a nice spot and useful spill. I prefer a reflector with a glass lens, which I expect to be more durable and resistant to scratches and abrasions than a plastic TIR. I also find it easier to understand what is occurring with a reflector: the spot is light coming off the reflector, and the spill is light coming directly from the emitter. But I do think it is about time manufacturers offered glass TIR.
You want to avoid reflectors because in all but the most impossibly-best LEDs, you will get a fried-egg beam, yellower hotspot and bluer spill. Worse if you get a hideous urine-yellow corona around the hotspot.
Aspherics can (most do) have a yellowish ring around the periphery, but TIR lenses are a good compromise.
If getting an S2+, ask Simon to stick in a 30° TIR lens, maybe 60° if you want it wider.
An orange peel reflector (which I believe I saw were available separately for S2+) will mitigate your complaint of a flat reflector, something that anyone can swap out, and then retain decades of scratch-less durability with a glass lens. My favorite TIR flashlight is only 4 years old, was only pocket carried, and the entire thing looks like it is suffering from cataracts. Plastic simply is not durable, even wiping it with cloth will damage it. If it must be TIR, solve this issue with a glass TIR, if it exists.
I think a glass fresnel lens would be pretty cool to run, but there’d probably be complaints about artifacts. But still…
A custom light, or a modified light, is the only way to get a light that has everything you want and nothing you don’t. Starting from a light that has most of the features desired then makes the mod less complicated and less expensive.
I've been into photography for more than 15 years, albeit amateur. High CRI can be useful in the high end photography industry, but the average Joe doesn't need or use it, especially not for a highlight in the background ;) And most photographers use Lightroom and other software to post process images anyways. I would keep it simple, get one that works well and forget about the flashaholic details, like High Cri, BBL, FET, 7135's, etc :D
Just get a popular flashlight with a good beam profile and start with that. They can always upgrade
I feel like sometimes we complicate things a bit too much :D (including myself of course)
That happens in every hobby, and sometimes it's good to step back and see how much information a newbee really needs :)
Many people tend to go too deep which makes it much harder to make a decision. Sometimes it's better to just start... and then upgrade if it doesn't work as expected.
Okay, answer to everbody: Many thanks for your ideas and suggestions.
I think it will be funny to try out some stuff. Thats why I like studio photography
A flashligt is a originally light spot. I am very exited