Low Power LED "indicator" Parts Question

By an “indicator” I mean one of those small LED’s used to indicate a device is powered on. There is probably a better adjective I could have used.

I have a small project planned that incorprates one the the 4056 based lithium cell chargers, such as the one sold by mtnelectronics here reviewed by HKJ ….
lygte-info.dk/review/Review%20Charger%20TP4056%20UK.html
(sorry… having a devil of a time making a link to HKJ’s page work)

The charger board includes two LED’s, one to indicate the unit is powered and a cell in place and the other LED to indicate that charge has completed. I would like to have the LED that indicates charge completed located remotely. A few inches away poking through the case to be more visible.

One thought I had was to remove the SMD LED and connect it to its new location with some skinny wires. That may not be easy as I can hardly see the thing without a magnifier. The other thought was to simply mount a typical push through the hole LED and connect it to the board with wires. Also needs a careful solder job.

Are there any experienced tinkers who can comment to the feasibility? I am not an expert electronics person but am adventurous and willing to jump in. If I was to use one of the typical LED’s with the “wire legs” is there something I have to watch as far as a value or some spec. See, I told you I am somewhat unversed in the tech aspects. :slight_smile:

Thanks for any help/advice. I have several of those charger boards so I may just experiment with an LED-ectomy and a resolder with some wire extensions if nobody has any ideas.

Gotta find my magnifier glasses……

As long as you connect it to the two pads of the original led.
Actually the led pad toward the board edge shares a connection to the “IN +” hole at the corner of the board. So you can use that spot to solder to instead, since it’s bigger / easier.

That is handy to know. Thanks. A larger “target”would be good.

Yeah, be very careful with those little led pads. They pull up very easily. I ended up having to solder the new leads to the MCU directly.