Yeah, I hear ya about andouille. It’s like having an operating system to run a toaster. I don’t mind at all having narsim on my original Q8s, because it’s useful enough without having all the other crap getting in the way.
And that’s why I’m gravitating back to my EC50 as an around-the-house light. Simple UI, not even a single blinky.
(And I got an assload of lights here on my table which I could use. Other contenders are my Ewhatever (Wuben 14500 with the braindead UI) and my TM03 if I want to head outside.)
Curious if you caught the Anekim UC20 as a thrower. [review] Anekim UC20 (green) hunting light with remote switch
Green (PCG, to my surprise quite nice!) 1-mode is on Amazon, and they have a 12 modegroup white, both CSM-whatevers for nice tight hotspots.
The white’s UI is like… bistro or bisgotti, the one that the Cometa has. Right now I got my white on 100%-only (group 12), but had it for a while on l/m/h (group 5). Nice to be able to select the modegroup as a set-it-and-forget-it approach to what you want.
It’s about as beefy as a F13, so has plenty of thermal mass.
When the GT Mini (not the pro) first came out it filled a niche that did not exist. Multiple LED options. It was smaller than the very popular C8 and threw a little farther. So it was unique in its day. Far from a nothing burger. If you missed it then , that’s too bad. And it does look like they’re not making them anymore. I don’t understand why you keep buying cool white lights and then complain about the color. Do not buy cool white LEDs. The pro was trying to appeal to those that want more lumens. Lumintop ruined the Fw1a with the same LED and called it a pro. As for Anduril I don’t think you “had” to program anything. And clearly you’d be happier if you didn’t know about the double click. The rest of us appreciate it. A quick accurate battery check is a good thing. I don’t need to know exactly how many lumens are being put out when I’m in the ramping mode and neither do you. My primary EDC for the last 3 years has used Anduril. While it may not be for everybody, and I certainly don’t recommend it for everybody, I don’t want to give it up. I don’t use all the Blinky stuff but the basic operation is very quick and easy.
Warmer tints turn out too brown in the lower levels. And I’ve never used a battery check feature, ever. And I do want to be able to quickly get back to a trusted mode I’ve been using, and not thinking about eyeing where I want something to be at, brightness-wise. It’s not a big deal, but it ticks me off.
I get it that others don’t agree. But me, heck, I find myself vigorously hating that UI.
With Anduril you can have your stepping modes. Turn the light on and click it quickly three times and your step modes are right there. You’ve never had a quick and accurate battery check feature to use. So of course you’ve never used one. As for color temperature, you don’t need to go all the way down to 3000k. 4000k is not too brown. 5000k is not to brown.
Wellp, the original ’mini, and the P30, have nice tight and well-defined hotspots, thanx to the smaller emitters. Closer to a point-source than bigger, especially quad-die, emitters. Very little nasty corona, especially Leaking Yolk Syndrome.
The farther you get from the focus (1 point in 3D space), the more “blurred” the hotspot. It’s worse at the edges of the die, and worst at the corners.
By tossing in a quad-die emitter that can belt out more raw lumens, sure, you might get lots more light, but the hotspot will be lots larger and smeared. Think of an L6 vs an L2, or C8A vs C8T.
Same reason back in the day, you could get comparable (or maybe more) throw from even an XP-E or -E2, or dedomed XP-G, vs an XM-L. One of my old sentimental faves is a ~4500K E2 in a cheapcrap C8 host, and I didn’t even push it that hard (only 1A or so).
Now with the CSwhatever chips, you can push ’em pretty hard and still have a relatively small emitter (like the UC20 I mentioned), which give pretty phenomenal throw for the size. Well, the ’20 is pretty beefy to shed heat and not have it step down, but in a small compact light, you could get kick-ass throw in a small package. Think of a ’micro vs a ’mini.
My problem with andy is that it’s too easy to get yourself in a world of hurt (or at least confusion), having to know that a particular sequence does vastly different things whether the light is initially off or on, or #C vs #H do similarly different things, etc. Unless it’s a sequence you use over and over and over and have ingrained to muscle-memory, anything slightly different you’ll have to “look up” how to do it.
Imagine wrongclicking yourself into “manual memory” mode. Every time you turn on the light, it goes to one specific brightness vs whatever level you want it to be. Wtf?? Is it broken?? No, but you have to pore over the manpages for the f’n thing, put 2 and 2 together, then try to unclick your way out of it. Or just do a factory-reset in frustration, and re-set alllllllll your configs (temperature, sideswitch light, other prefs).
It’s the equivalent of having the hood- or trunk-release, or parking-brake actuator, right next to the identical-looking wiper switch or light switch. One errant slip, and…
And now there is Andy 2 
I always wonder why they don’t make battery check default behavior when closing tailcap, like nitecore hc50. Would be a great option to add to Andruil imo, but I like simple UIs, and I’d probably never figure out how to turn it on.
I really don’t get the hate for Anduril. If you want to keep your life simple, put it in Muggle mode. In advanced mode, you can set parameters for Muggle too. I think in Anduril v2 it’s now “Simple UI.” Still pretty basic.
I go into my Anduril menu system, set configuration parameters as I wish, then… forget about them. And I’ll forget how to do it too (hence, keep a menu image easily at hand). The basic operation of Anduril is really quite simple. Click+hold for moon. Single click to turn on. Click+hold to ramp up. Double-click for turbo. Triple click from off to get battery level. And… uh buh dee, uh buh dee, that’s all folks. Oh yeah, triple click+hold… blinkies. Nicely hidden. NEVER accidentally activate them. And if you don’t like to physically lock out, 4 clicks from off puts you in lockout. 4 clicks unlocks. SIMPLE.
But I get it, for those who use a variety of flashlights with multiple UI’s, you can tend to forget. I use Anduril almost daily, so the familiarity of use is there. If you use your Anduril flashlight daily for a few weeks, you should end up remembering it well enough that if you let a few weeks go by, you should still remember it.
Now that there is a reset option it’s not so bad. My original ones didn’t have that. I think 2 makes it less likely to go into configuration mode also.
I can’t say I have hate for it, at all.
It’s really fun to play with on ts21. I would never use muggle mode, but I do prefer spacing to ramping, usually.
On a light with one specific purpose (which totally depends on the user, not just conditions) then it can be poor, maybe even dangerous.
Yeh, I suggested that æons ago for pretty much all UIs instead of a useless 2flash or anything.
Got that on my MH20s, got spoiled.
Figure why waste a command slot on something that can be easily done on powerup.
This must be satire right?
One man’s treasure is another’s garbage. Wait, is that backwards?
Maybe we could agree, no turbo flash on tailcap close like my otherwise awesome nsx4e.
This emitter never made sense for this light. If a light is going to Stepdown quick, I’d at least want it to be impressive while it’s at max output. Yours does seem to be stepping down a bit too fast though. I’d expect that to last at least two minutes on turbo. Have you calibrated the temperature?
I agree the Pro model doesn’t make sense for me. It’s not a thrower or a flood light but apparently a lot of people want something in between. And I can understand why many would like that. Also this light is using Narsil not Anduril. Rusty Joe is never going to figure it out. I think we now know why he’s so angry. Well it explains a little bit of his anger.
The whole point (ie, the actual “GT” part) was that it was designed as a thrower.
Shouldda been called something else if it ain’t gonna be a thrower anymore…
(Kinda like all the new P30s.)
Honestly, I have no use for my original gt. Or the nano, but I haven’t sold them. I need to go inside and get the nano 
Yeah but at that time the xhp 50.2 was the flavor of the month. Everybody and his brother wanted it and I’m sure they sold plenty of that pro model. Not that there’s anything wrong with the xhp50.2 as I carry one every day just not cool white. Wizard.