I bought a Lumintop GT3 XHP70 with the intent of swapping out the LEDs for something with a higher color temperature (11400k), but the head and bezel are glued on. Has anyone had success in defeating the glue without thrashing the light?
I’ve defeated glue on other lights before with a blow torch and heat gun, but that’s really hard on the light and I’m not sure the light would survive… Which is important here!
So far I’ve only gotten on it with some smallish strap wrenches. I’ll be trying bigger ones later but I’m skeptical that’s going to cut it.
I dont have this light, but are you sure the head and bezel are glued? A lot of lights require a great deal of torque to loosen the threads. After destroying several plastic & rubber strap wrenches, I bought a pair of aluminum frame Boa Constrictor strap wrenches and never looked back.
I started out with the HF strap wrenches and they broke almost immediately. The Boa’s are an investment, but they have paid for themselves several times over.
OK I bought the big boa and I already have a burly husky rubber strap wrench. I got on the light with those and no dice. The head now jiggles a bit in both directions and doesn’t feel like it’s on threads (i.e. doesn’t really “tighten”)… I wonder if it was pressed in.
Im sorry its being so difficult. I thought someone else would have chimed in by now to tell you if it was threaded or press fit. I have had glued flashlights that required multiple propane blow-torch heat cycles, followed by the use of 2 Boa’s exerting torque near the absolute limit of failure before coming lose. I risked those lights (and my Boa’s) only because the lights were unusable to me with the stock emitters and drivers.
Im sorry its being so difficult. I thought someone else would have chimed in by now to tell you if it was threaded or press fit. I have had glued flashlights that required multiple propane blow-torch heat cycles, followed by the use of 2 Boa’s exerting torque near the absolute limit of failure before coming lose. I risked those lights (and my Boa’s) only because the lights were unusable to me with the stock emitters and drivers.
I’m very familiar with the limitations. I chose this light in particular since it uses a 12V boost anduril driver so I can control both the temperature and Imax pretty easily using the UI. Depending on driver architecture, I could also do a sense resistor swap to dial back what 100% output is to be more in line with the LEDs I have.
Also this host uses 3x7070 LEDs, which would work for the 3x6868 LEDs that I have.
But of course, I can’t get into the light since it’s not just pieces threaded together.
