Lumintop ODL20C USB Type-C Rechargeable Thrower [New]

yasenf · 2018-06-16T08:23:25.000Z

Zyll:

Hello, I’m trying to decide between this light and the ThruNite Catapult V6 XHP35 HI while they’re both still being offered for the same price. Can someone who already received the Lumintop tell me if you can access turbo from off or do you have to turn it on first? How long can it sustain that mode before stepping down? Also is it press and hold to turn off like the ODF30? If yes, then how long do you have to wait? One second or more? Thanks in advance.

I had no choice - Trunite do not ship in EU and did not want to pay the 20% premium from hkequipment. If you make 3 fast clicks from off on the first click light turns on, then with the other goes to turbo, i.e. it is like a shortcut for turbo. Long press to turn off is like 1,5 sec. I will measure the stepdown tonight and will write here.

Zyll · 2018-06-16T12:14:12.000Z

I see…so if the total price for both lights were exactly the same, would you have picked the Thrunite instead?

yasenf · 2018-06-16T14:24:06.000Z

Not sure - on one side TN has NW emiter, which is a big plus, on the other side I like the brand Lumintop, the aesthetics and the slight advantage in performance of ODL20C. Would have been as tough choise.
Also it was generally tough to choose to buy any of them, since I have Emisar D1s, Amutorch JM70 and Olight M2X. The only “excuse” was the XHP35 emitter.

I have played with the light with my water pipe “sphere”. Please do not take the absolute numbers of lux readings as lumens, as I am nowhere near the good calibration - just the relative numbers matter. Measures are taken every 30 sec. and I have switched on and off a fan to test the temperature sensor. Double click re-activates the turbo and step down looks like combination of timing and temperature - on second turbo activation (@35 min) light was actively cooled. Battery (Liitokalla 26650) was fully charged in the beginning, and after all this “test” it was 3,4 v.

Speed4goal · 2018-06-16T14:39:36.000Z

kicken_bright:

I’m glad it uses USB-C! However there is still a glaring flaw… How should I set it down on my night stand?

If I set it on its head, there is no crenelated bezel. I may accidentally leave it on…
If I set in on its side, it may roll away…
Setting it on its tale may be the best option, but not the most stable…

Crenelated bezels and anti-roll designs are some basic things that light manufacturers used to incorporate. I feel that in many ways we have digressed. Now I sound like an old grouchy man, but until these basic things are fixed I won’t be buying this light… Sorry :cry:

You look at the front end of the flashlight. If it doesn’t blind you set it on its head. If it does blind you or emit any light switch off and repeat step 1.
If your night stand has any other objects on it. They will keep it from rolling away. Or a nickel or quarter would work as well.
Another possibility loosen the tail cap a half a turn. Easy multiple solutions if you really want this light.

If one is forgetful and normally places light on in the head down position then another light is for you. Or another solution have something to place it head down on where you will see the light coming through. Make a little stand for it. Should be simple enough to do With a lot of my powerful lights with a flat bezel there is still a tiny amount of light leakage. Smaller lights like a s2 or x6 not so much

Zyll · 2018-06-16T15:03:20.000Z

yasenf:

Not sure - on one side TN has NW emiter, which is a big plus, on the other side I like the brand Lumintop, the aesthetics and the slight advantage in performance of ODL20C. Would have been as tough choise.
Also it was generally tough to choose to buy any of them, since I have Emisar D1s, Amutorch JM70 and Olight M2X. The only “excuse” was the XHP35 emitter.

I have played with the light with my water pipe “sphere”. Please do not take the absolute numbers of lux readings as lumens, as I am nowhere near the good calibration - just the relative numbers matter. Measures are taken every 30 sec. and I have switched on and off a fan to test the temperature sensor. Double click re-activates the turbo and step down looks like combination of timing and temperature - on second turbo activation (@35 min) light was actively cooled. Battery (Liitokalla 26650) was fully charged in the beginning, and after all this “test” it was 3,4 v.

I had forgotten the Thrunite was available in NW now. I prefer CW myself. I also just bought a D1S and wanted my first XHP35 HI light. I guess these readings are to be expected in a light of this size. Better for me to put the money into an Imalent RT35 for $25 more. The RT35 is supposed to be a lot more compact than it’s competitors, but still can handle heat well. The throw of 1277.6 m also looks close to spec unlike the RT70 which just tested out about 240m below. Thanks for all your efforts with the graphs.

gerasalex · 2018-07-12T18:25:39.000Z

Has anyone tried to use Lumintop ODL20C with batteries with 26650 5500 mAh? It doesn’t work for me… In turbo mode, it does not turn on, only 1 time will blink and go out, and no longer responds to any buttons. This is normal? Or should I use not protected? I use Soshine Li-ion 26650 Protected 5500mAh 3.7V

dra00 · 2018-07-06T15:58:31.000Z

You should definitely use unprotected

DBSAR · 2018-07-06T16:10:30.000Z

would be a nice light to review to compare to all the other throwers i have tested. the built in USB-C charging is a good feature.

gerasalex · 2018-07-10T13:46:37.000Z

dra00:

You should definitely use unprotected

The representative of Lumintop claims the opposite: “For safety concern, we are strongly recommended to use the protected cell to avoid potential reverse polarity connection.”

dra00 · 2018-07-10T15:36:26.000Z

You should also never exceed speed limits and in this situation you for sure exceeded current limit. Your LED needs current especial in turbo mode I’d guess 3-5 Amps (?) just like DMC in “Return to the future” needs speed to move in time Try it without protection and see for yourself.

BTW: you can always use protected with higher current protection I suppose Imalent can give more Amps still being protected.

gerasalex · 2018-07-11T11:44:50.000Z

dra00:

You should also never exceed speed limits and in this situation you for sure exceeded current limit. Your LED needs current especial in turbo mode I’d guess 3-5 Amps (?) just like DMC in “Return to the future” needs speed to move in time Try it without protection and see for yourself.

BTW: you can always use protected with higher current protection I suppose Imalent can give more Amps still being protected.

Thanks! Advise the best brand of the accumulator, a format 26650 with the maximum productivity which would be suitable for this flashlight ?

dra00 · 2018-07-11T12:25:14.000Z

Don’t received it yet still in the mail. I’ve got another two 26650 lights and it is DN70 & DN35 both Imalent, both came with Imalent’s batteries. Anyway I’ve already bought Keeppower IMR26650 6000mAh cos Shockli IMR26650 5500mAh (Test/review of Shockli IMR26650 5500mAh (Black) 2017) is not possible to buy near my home (and last time I’ve bought batteries from banggood it took 3 months to came here!). And in this review (Lumintop ODL20C Flashlight Review – ZeroAir Reviews) author used flat top battery so I predict it will be as good as this Keeppower

Besides I have no experience with 26650 I use normally 18650 (with my lights and e-cig) and here I can help

gerasalex · 2018-07-11T12:48:47.000Z

dra00:

Don’t received it yet still in the mail. I’ve got another two 26650 lights and it is DN70 & DN35 both Imalent, both came with Imalent’s batteries. Anyway I’ve already bought Keeppower IMR26650 6000mAh cos Shockli IMR26650 5500mAh (Test/review of Shockli IMR26650 5500mAh (Black) 2017) is not possible to buy near my home (and last time I’ve bought batteries from banggood it took 3 months to came here!). And in this review (Lumintop ODL20C Flashlight Review – ZeroAir Reviews) author used flat top battery so I predict it will be as good as this Keeppower

Besides I have no experience with 26650 I use normally 18650 (with my lights and e-cig) and here I can help

… it will be interesting when receive flashlight ODL20C with what accumulators at you, it will work without problems. That to me already specifically the nobility, a problem in a flashlight or in accumulators.

dra00 · 2018-07-11T12:51:45.000Z

OK, will try to remember to let you know

gerasalex · 2018-07-11T12:58:21.000Z

dra00:

…I’ve got another two 26650 lights and it is DN70 & DN35 both Imalent, both came with Imalent’s batteries…

I had DN70 and DN35! I sold them, because of a neudobnost of buttons, they are very not thought over there, it is heavy to grope them in the dark. By the way, my accumulators worked with DN70 and DN35 without problems.

gerasalex · 2018-07-11T12:59:21.000Z

dra00:

OK, will try to remember to let you know

Thank you!!!

dra00 · 2018-07-11T13:10:31.000Z

Ha! I can understand this. But I simply unscrew head and screw again looking for OLED - in that way I can find buttons in complete darkness :) And I always unscrew heads if it makes sense (if threads are covered) to take care of parasitic drain. But we differ from the topic of this thread :(

gerasalex · 2018-07-11T13:22:07.000Z

dra00:

Ha! I can understand this. But I simply unscrew head and screw again looking for OLED - in that way I can find buttons in complete darkness And I always unscrew heads if it makes sense (if threads are covered) to take care of parasitic drain. But we differ from the topic of this thread

Yes. concerning ODL20C, the button of a power is well groped, and here a rubber stub, clings to a finger permanently, and it causes inconveniences. Therefore a rubber tip of a stub, I cut off an edge…

DB_Custom · 2018-07-11T15:28:21.000Z

I didn’t care for the UI so I rebuilt the light to use an XP-L HI and TK’s Anduril firmware. I also used some Sugru to fill in the diamond checkering and give a rubbery grip to the battery tube. Mine now makes 212Kcd and has a dependable lockout with ramping and candlelight and lightning modes.

6.12A draw at the tail last time I checked, after that test it had 6.06A at the emitter, but again this is the XP-L HI making over 1500 lumens (I saw it do 1700+ on one particular cell) [mine didn’t make the claimed 2000 lumens out of the box. Mine was also a prototype, an unbranded sample, so that could be why.]

I don’t use built in chargers so I plugged the Type C charger port with Sugru. Pretty sure I completely removed the driver assembly and used a different PCB for cell contact.

The light is very well made, really like it a lot… much classier than the Utorch UT02 even though overall it’s essentially the same light.

Edit: Pics…

In hand, the unbranded Lumintop ODL20C

Side by side with an Utorch UT02, virtually the same light with some design changes externally…

Side by side beam shot comparison, the Lumintop now has an XP-L HI V3 3A so it’s the warmer tint and smaller hot spot, this one is in a lower mode

And this with both lights in Turbo…

Shots taken with the iPhone 8, manual control of aperture and exposure as well as ISO to show hot spots.

Delta_V · 2018-07-11T15:21:29.000Z

The host is basically the same as the UT02 with different styling. The main differences seem to be the replacement of the Micro-USB port with Type C, and a much, much more capable driver (there’s been several reviews that have tested it to ~1900 lumens, compared to like 1000 for the UT02). If there was a neutral white option, and the UI was slightly better (not a fan of long press for off) this would be even better than the Thrunite Catapult V6. As it stands, it’s kind of a toss-up, with the Thrunite having neutral white, better UI, and more compact size, while the Lumintop has a better charging port and better performance.