Lumintop Tool AA 2.0 Osram Ostar KP CSLNM1.F1

Flashlight Modding and DIY Parts
1

I finally started swapping emitters. Albeit with half a dozen mistakes.

Thanks to Matt Smith’s reflow video and advice from oweban.

Parts used:
Lumintop Tool AA 2.0 NW
Osram Ostar KP CSLNM1.F1 from Simon
Leaded Solder Paste
Solder
Thermal paste

Tools used:
Camera Lens Spanner Wrench
Soldering Iron
Isopropyl alcohol
Hemostat forceps in a Panavise
Heatgun
Tweezers
Stanley Knife

Steps:

  1. Remove pill from the head by rotating the pill clockwise (toward the right) with a Camera Lens Spanner Wrench.



2. Desolder the wires.

3. Remove the board from the pill.
4. Clean the thermal paste off the board with isopropyl alcohol.

5. Cut the red loctite and remove the black plastic ring from around the LED.

6. Setup an area with a Panavise holding Hemostat forceps above a heatgun.
7. Place the board carefully in the hemostats.

8. Heat the board and remove the LED with tweezers. Wait for the board to cool down.

9. Add solder paste to the board.

10. Place the CSLNM1.F1 emitter on top of the paste with the “notch” facing negative.

11. Heat the board and press the LED down carefully with tweezers. I used a wireless remote to turn the heatgun on and off.
12. Apply a bit of thermal paste to the pill.
13. Place the board back in the pill.
14. Attach the wires with solder.
15. Place the black plastic ring on the board around the LED.
16. Balance the reflector and lens on top of the black ring and push the pill up into the head of the flashlight. Twist counter-clockwise (left) to tighten with the Camera Lens Spanner Wrench.

More photos:

Lumintop Tool AA 2.0 Osram Ostar KP CSLNM1.F1

I swapped an SST20 4000K with an LH351D 2700K in a Sofirn C01S earlier today before attempting to swap the LED in the Tool AA 2.0:

Sofirn C01S Orange with LH351D 2700K

Mistakes made:
It took about 4-5 attempts to get the LED to sit properly. Initially the solder paste wasn’t getting hot enough. It appeared to be runny. So I moved the hemostats in the vise closer to the heatgun. I tombstoned the LED a few times while trying to press down on the white edges gently with tweezers.

There are two small black dots at one edge of the LED (within the white border) that impact the beam slightly. I may have damaged it with tweezers… or something else?

I’ll order a preheating platform to make life easier before my next attempt. oweban suggested this initially.

Feedback on how to improve would be greatly appreciated. Hopefully this is helpful for others who want to swap the emitter in their Lumintop Tool AA 2.0

2

Nice job. You are giving me the confidence to attempt this someday.

3

Nice!

How did you find reflowing the Osram onto the Tool’s mcpcb? With the Osram being 3030 and the board being 3535?

For tapping the LED during a reflow, I like to use a cocktail stick, seems to work quite well without damaging the LED

4

I found it difficult to center the LED. It took 4 or 5 attempts. Once the solder melted, I switched the heat gun off with a remote and then tried tapping the LED with tweezers.

Hopefully it’s easier with a preheat platform.

I might try to swap a 219B sw45k (buy on BLF? :-P) into a Skilhunt M150 V2 next.

5

outstanding tutorial, congratulations
thanks for listing your tools, I had not know about lens wrenches, ordered one, seems very useful.

I use this hotplate
it makes reflows really easy

6

Thanks! Martin mentioned the Camera Lens tool on the Manker BLF Combo thread. I got one after bending my tweezers.

I’ll order that hot plate on 11.11 :smiley: