Oof this uncentered LES is quite a PITA. Maybe a solution could be to take a regular 3535 centering gasket with square opening (blue), and cut new notches (red) at (i) a 45 degree offset and (ii) a vertical shift to account for the off-center die (orange).
Also the reflow on the 16mm board is very off…
There will be no test of this LED from my side, sorry.
In general I don’t think there will be a lot of test in the future. I have completely different priorities for now.
Thank you for the update! We will miss your presence and your tests, but are happy that you have found something worthy of your time.
I will be around here, and maybe I will post some test or another comments at some point, but less frequently and always in my own pace.
My mental health is much better now, but still far from perfect.
I’m happy that you are doing better now. If you ever want someone to talk to, about anything at all, I’ll be around.
No problem at all and (spoiler alert) after my first experience with this LED, 10 minutes ago, I think it was not worth your time testing it anyway! 
Could have been an option, because I quickly put it in the planned host and the hotspot (and the beam profile as a whole) where horrible. The reason I state “Could have been an option”, is that I’m already convinced This LED is not worth investing more time in, but more on that later on.
Yeah, also spotted that already and was planning on reflowing/correcting that. (But probably not anymore.)
But let’s get to my first experience a few moments ago:
I placed it in the planned host (Mateminco X6, powered by a 18650), paired it with a Convoy 17mm 8A buck driver out of caution, and not immediately a 10A buck driver, in case that the 10A stated by KD would be to optimistic.
First of all: on the lower outputs it’s HORRIBLY green! That is obviously nothing new for (quite a few) Luminus LEDs, but I think that I’ve personally not seen it this bad so far. The driver was/is still in the standard/stock 1 group (so 0.1%, 1%, 10%, 35%, 100% + a few blinkies). At the 35% mode it finally turns into a decent white light.
But then the 100% mode, on the 8A(!) buck driver: it gives white light… for probably just over 1 second and then turns REALLY ANGRY BLUE!
There is enough Arctic MX-4, so heat transfer shouldn’t be the problem.
So I think it’s fair to say that there is probably no way it can ever handle the claimed 10A and even the 8A from the Convoy buck driver is already overkill. (Unless I have an extremely bad sample!)
I could probably pair it (safely) with a 5A buck driver, but given all the extra work in having to center the LES, it basicly isn’t worth it I think.
So unfortunately a couple of (way) too expensive and unusable LEDs… 
Thank you for doing this test! It saved each of us curious folks a few bucks. 8A was a good call, though no tears will be shed if this emitter gets fried.
If it can’t even handle 8A there’s no point in using it, the SFT25R is nicer in every way and cheaper too. Makes me wonder where KD got the 10A rating from…
Looks like the pursuit of high intensity has essentially stalled since the Osram black/white flat came out around 8-9 years ago. Nothing is beating them in peak intensity, and the only developments have been in making larger-die or lower-CCT emitters that rival their intensity.
No problem and glad to be of help! (Although it was also my own curiousity that a very big part…)
That is actually what I was thinking of doing to it! 
I will charge up a good, high drain, battery and let’s see how blue it can really turn and for how long, hahaha!
@QReciprocity42 (the KD) MCPCB not having a DTP also doesn’t help in having to handle 8 or 10 amps:
Oh wow, that’s a good observation! At these power densities the presence of DTP makes a huge difference.
If you fry it at 10A and videotape it, I wonder if you can get your money back…
I haven’t been able to fry it thus far with the 8A driver; on 100% mode in turns angry blue, starts to smoke a little, but 10-15 seconds it turns back to mostly white and the smoking stops. Cycling through the driver modes and immediately putting it back to 100%, makes the blue (and smoke) return, but after 10-15 seconds it reverts back to white again, so I expect the driver is stepping down a bit.
I could try it, but at this moment I don’t feel like putting in the time and effort, so I just wrote 2 1-star reviews on Aliexpress, so hopefully potential future buyers are warned.
That’s surprising–if the emitter is not sustaining damage, I wonder where the smoke is coming from, or what exactly is being aerosolized.
That’s a great service to the flashlight community!
