That’s a trend I am very unhappy with. I much preferred my phones that still had replaceable batteries. I used to carry a spare when I thought I might need it same as I do for my light.
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I have a Samsung Galaxy A14 5G.
I don’t think it’s super easy for the end user to replace the battery, but it is possible.
I really don’t want a smart phone that doesn’t have a user replaceable battery, and it is a terrible trend. 
I also hate the planned obsolescence of smart phones.
The hardware is technically able to be updated much later than is currently allowed, forcing many users to buy a new phone more frequently than should be necessary. 
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My point wasnt copper vs aluminum vs titanium phone, but if there was a copper phone, id likely get it becuase i like copper.
My point was that there are options on the market. You weren’t forced to get the phone you have. When you buy a phone weight is likely the last thing you look at. You likely already have a preferred brand and model of phone, and i highly doubt you consider other options because “iTsToHeAvY”.
Either way, this conversation has been derailed which is why i stopped responding. Lets just bring it back to hank lights. I will start another thread to discuss edc weight budgets if you want
You don’t think of phone weight because… You don’t have the option to. They all use the exact same materials, unlike flashlights where I have a choice between light 1 and identical light 2 but heavier and more expensive.
But anyways I agree let’s stop detailing the thread
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I don’t own a D3AA yet but a buddy of mine who is fresh into the hobby ordered one on my rec. He likes it a lot but just experienced the o ring issue that seems to be plaguing the whole community. I haven’t been following it super closely since I don’t own one - does anyone know if there is any formal guidance from Hank on the topic yet? Seems like a different o ring spec (or body tube geometry…) is in order if the orings are being torn only after a month or so.
Or the box should include 12 spares, one for each month lol, at least it will last a year
I haven’t torn a single one yet. However, I can see how the o-ring can be pulled up onto the threads, especially if you fat-finger the tailcap. and pull it up with your fingertips. It can also stick to the tailcap if not lubed right; that includes using too much lube or the wrong lube. The groove below the threads does seem a bit wide to me, as though it were made for the thicker o-rings of Hank’s larger lights.
The D3AA does require one to be a bit more mindful of where the o-ring is before screwing on the tailcap. Allowing it to wiggle around like that does make it far more likely to wander into the threads where it could get ground to bits by threads that have only micrometers of slop. Squish rubber hard enough at it rips pretty easily.
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It’s not that. Even with careful usage the stock o-rings can break.
The problem is the D3AA needs thicker o-rings. The problem goes away if you replace the o-rings with ones that fit better.
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Mine rode into the threads and eventually broke. I replaced the body o-rings with the spare ones from the Wurkkos TS10. They are noticeably thicker and require a bit more care when threading on but I feel the thicker aspect makes it less stretchy and fills out the space better. Wish it came with these ones instead…
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This.
I got some first batch ones and it seems like mine have thicker o-rings than later ones. I’ve pinched one once but it didn’t break, and overall they’re all still in good condition. Possibly Hank ran out of the thicker ones or changed them for another reason?
I was beginning to wonder if I won the O-ring lottery. Both of the ones I have now are first-batch. We’ll see what #3 is like when it gets here.
If only I had some TS10’s… oh, wait…
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That’s quite the collection of TS10 you’ve got there! I have a humble collection of 2. Lucky me as I can replace both ends now. I know it is often collected like candy. Perhaps my data point can help others replace broken o-rings without having to buy more.
@Hank_Wang I’m enjoying my D3AA in red. Thank you!
I hope you will eventually offer more Emisar/Noctigon models in red, especially the D4v2, D4Sv2, and D1K. I also agree with previous posters that a titanium+copper version of the D3AA would be great.
Anyway, the D3AA is fantastic 
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+1 to that. I have a couple of quips about the D3AA, but everything considered, is my favourite light right now, in large part thanks to @thefreeman’s fantastic driver 
, it has definitely struck my TS10 down from 1st place.
@Hank_Wang, @thefreeman: for the larger Emisar/Noctigons, any chance of having newer versions of them with this driver and a USB port capable both of direct charging (ie, the usual) and reverse charging (ie, using the flashlight to charge a cellphone etc in an emergency), like the Wurkkos FC13 does? That would make them just perfect for me. 
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+1 for efficient drivers in Hanklights.
I personally would like an efficient dual-channel D2 and an efficient dual-channel KR4. For me, using one channel at a time is sufficient (I don’t really use tint mixing), if that makes things easier.
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@Hank_Wang any more details on this one?
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