M44 with UV 365nm option

[lumos_maxima]

@oweban

@lumos_maxima

Why does the site state ‘ship before end of june’? It doesn’t seem like a limited run? Awesome upgrades either way! Love it!

As in, shipments will start sometime before the end of June.

Ooh like that! Thank you, no need to rush then:)

[d_t_a]

I wonder if it’s possible to get a mixed tint SST20 (1 each of SST20-3000k/4000k/5000k/6500k) and if that would have any advantage?

Also any info on the quiescent current (standby/parasitic drain) for the Aux-LEDs?

[Rexlion]

@lumos_maxima

@oweban

@lumos_maxima

Why does the site state ‘ship before end of june’? It doesn’t seem like a limited run? Awesome upgrades either way! Love it!

As in, shipments will start sometime before the end of June.

Ooh like that! Thank you, no need to rush then:)

Unless they run out early. I got my order in tonight; not taking chances. Figured the sooner I order, the sooner in the queue mine will be shipped. That sand color is irresistible.

[KevinZA1988]

@djozz

@KevinZA1988

@MKayze

@KevinZA1988

@Hank Wang

@Satan@103TFS

Hank are you have any plan for 21700 in your product ?

Yes, sure, it’s under developing.

Please let this one have a FET+6+1 driver or something in that range?

It’s still FET+1×7135 driver

That’s a deal breaker for me.

Don’t worry, the 3-channel driver is nice but also overrated. Sure it is a nice thought to have it in your light, but the slight efficiency gain you get in medium modes will not be noticable in your runtimes.

It’s not really about runtimes for me, it’s about constant brightness output. I did notice it on my other FET+1 lights and it just annoys me. Will Anduril compensate the voltage dropping the whole time and increase current to maintain for example, 300 or 400 lumens?

[djozz]

I see, in that case a 3 channel driver will do that over a wider output range. Still I think only few people will notice the gradual output drop on medium modes, let alone be bothered with it.

[KevinZA1988]

@djozz

I see, in that case a 3 channel driver will do that over a wider output range. Still I think only few people will notice the gradual output drop on medium modes, let alone be bothered with it.

True…. But, some people don’t care about high CRI, only a good tint. Just imagine your car losing power as the fuel goes from full to 3/4 of a tank fuel. Anyway, im gonna attempt installing a FET+7+1 driver in my D4. A button top cell and a 1mm copper spacer on the tube should work.

[ToyKeeper]

@ToyKeeper

I’ll post a lot more details soon in a review.

I published a review. I’m still adding answers to people’s questions, but … here it is:

TK's Emisar D4V2 review

Emisar D4 (V2) This is the updated 2019 version of the Emisar D4, produced by Hank Wang of Intl-Outdoor. [image] Disclaimer: I helped make this. I’m not an impartial reviewer. This thread is primarily intended to answer everyone’s questions about this brand new product. I reviewed the original Emisar D4 too, if you’d like more pictures, information, and background context about this light. What’s New? If you’re already familiar with the original D4 and just want to know what changed, h…

[mortuus]

only 3 colors? would be nicer if they offered same body colors as aux colors. Already have a grey d4s and green d4, neither black or the sand are exciting to make a purchase really… atleast give option blue and green like on the original d4, wasnt those the colors that sold out first?

[blueb8llz]

Does the sst20 throw more than xpl hi? Surprised the xpl hi only 100 lumens more.

[ToyKeeper]

@Gunga

Can someone explain how aux leds are implemented? Do they turn on when the light is off? Like a lit tailcap? Or is it a mode during use?

The aux LEDs turn on during “off” and “lockout” modes. They are off in other modes, like when the main LEDs are on.

[ToyKeeper]

@Kingjohn

Will the added lanyard hole be less sharp-edged than the one on the D4S?
This is the only thing I don’t like on that light….

Yes.

[Kingjohn]

@ToyKeeper

@Kingjohn

Will the added lanyard hole be less sharp-edged than the one on the D4S?
This is the only thing I don’t like on that light….

Yes.

perfect! & Thanks for the nice picture

[gregor]

Hello

Please help me choose led and tint?

So many options that I can’t decide what to choose.

What did you choose and why?

---

Will there be green color of this FL, the same color as original D4?

Thank you

Kind regards

[Klayking]

I’m a tint snob now, so I went for XP-L HI. 5D 4000K to be specific. Beautiful rosy beam with no tint shifting and no green in it. 70 CRI is plenty for my tastes. 3A 5000K is also a great option for a very pure white beam.

If you prefer high CRI, get the SST-20 4000K (or 3000K if you want a warm, candle-like light). Beware that the 4000K is notorious for being a quite green at low to medium output levels, if that sort of stuff bothers you at all. I haven’t had much luck with 219Cs from Emisar either, with all of them being somewhat green too, but YMMV.

If you want maximum power and throw for cheaper than XP-L HI, get the SST-20 5000K, or 6500K if you want a bluer tint rather than a whiter one. As with most SST-20s, these might look a little green at low and medium output levels, but they’re cheaper than XP-L HI so it’s a perfectly acceptable tradeoff. Keep in mind that these are low CRI however.

I think the general consensus these days is SST-20 4000K for high CRI, and SST-20 5000K for maximum performance.

[gregor]

Thank you for your kind answer.

[Klayking]

You’re welcome. My favourite part about the flashlight community is how helpful everybody is. I try to give back what I can.

[Scallywag]

@Omega_17

@northbeard

A question on the battery type though: Is a Samsung 30Q enough for this light, or would one of the Sony VTC6 be better?

Same cells, with same chemistry and ratings. The Sony is slightly longer. But you can get better capacity cells for slightly longer run-time. 3600mAh instead of 3000mAh but you also have to look at the Continuous Discharge Rating (higher amps mean higher output but less run-time if you use turbo or unregulated output)

VTC6 tends to do a bit better in peak output IIRC, but they're definitely not "the same cell" - they're made by different manufacturers. You may as well lump in the LG high-current cell that's 3000mAh, the HG2 if I'm not mistaken. There's also lower-capacity cells that can do higher peak outputs. But I wouldn't recommend any higher capacity 3500mAh cells for this light, or any other low-discharge cells. They will not hold up well to higher current draw of this light. Actually, I'd consider it mildly irresponsible to recommend such batteries for a D4.

[rayman007]

Is there a BLF discount code?

[nick779]

@Klayking

I’m a tint snob now, so I went for XP-L HI. 5D 4000K to be specific. Beautiful rosy beam with no tint shifting and no green in it. 70 CRI is plenty for my tastes. 3A 5000K is also a great option for a very pure white beam.

If you prefer high CRI, get the SST-20 4000K (or 3000K if you want a warm, candle-like light). Beware that the 4000K is notorious for being a quite green at low to medium output levels, if that sort of stuff bothers you at all. I haven’t had much luck with 219Cs from Emisar either, with all of them being somewhat green too, but YMMV.

If you want maximum power and throw for cheaper than XP-L HI, get the SST-20 5000K, or 6500K if you want a bluer tint rather than a whiter one. As with most SST-20s, these might look a little green at low and medium output levels, but they’re cheaper than XP-L HI so it’s a perfectly acceptable tradeoff. Keep in mind that these are low CRI however.

I think the general consensus these days is SST-20 4000K for high CRI, and SST-20 5000K for maximum performance.

I dont know if I got lucky, or Hank got some nice binned SST20s but my 4k D4 is almost perfectly neutral. Ill know more once my 3k V1 comes in. I cant deny the tint of 4k XP-L HIs though as I have 3 D4S with them and my 7a FW3A.

Sadly though I kinda like the idea of my nightstand “candle” having amber or red aux lights so the diffuser would slightly glow.

I also need to wait and see what the candle mode looks like on the V2 because im not incredibly fond of the 6/2 build’s behavior.

[lumos_maxima]

My 2 cents: i first bought a D4S sst20 6500k and it did have a noticeable green tint on lower output. Being in love I ordered another D4S Nichia 219C and a D4 sst20 4000K both with uncoated lenses and there’s zero green in the tint. Also I swapped the uncoated lens from my 2nd D4S with the first one (sst20 6500K) and the green is hardly noticeable anymore.

So for absolute power get the sst20 5000/6500K and for cosy warmer light get the Nichia or sst20 3000/4000K. Personally I really adore the sst20 4000K, it was my first none cool white led and it made me go WAAAW out loud:) beautiful colour rendering and easier on the eyes on full power. The Nichia is quite cosy as well, somewhat rosy on lower output. The power difference is really noticeable between the warm and cool white.