[M4Ddeal active]: Rofis MR50

JasonWW · 2018-07-27T02:09:01.000Z

chinooker:

for the difference in output, capacity, and feature of sidelight at +$10,
I bought another MR70 for my car.

The big difference with this light is it’s much smaller and lighter than the MR70. Not much bigger than an 18650 light.

deleted-200707 · 2018-07-27T02:36:21.000Z

not having held one I can’t conclude like you
Butt the omission of the sidelight is a dealbreaker for me

leroycp · 2018-08-11T02:50:27.000Z

Ordered MR50

M4D_M4X · 2018-08-11T05:53:54.000Z

thank you :)

TheAuditor · 2018-09-12T13:47:52.000Z

Hi

I just wondered if anyone has had any issues with their MR50? Mine will not stay on turbo for more than a couple of seconds. I have fully charged the battery and that made no difference. I have used another 21700 battery and still get the same thing.

Is there something I have missed?

Thanks for any advice received.

JasonWW · 2018-09-12T14:53:00.000Z

Good contact is essential. Make sure your battery ends and springs are clean. Clean any grease off the bare aluminum of the battery tube and tail cap so they get good contact.

Is your other battery protected? These boost drivers always perform better with unprotected high drain cells.

If cleaning doesn’t fix it, you can try bypassing the tail cap. Take some thick, short wire and connect the battery negative to the bare battery tube. Then see if turbo is longer or the same.

If none of this changes anything, you might need to ask the manufacturer. It’s possible it’s defective.

CoolJB · 2018-09-12T22:47:28.000Z

TheAuditor:

Hi

I just wondered if anyone has had any issues with their MR50? Mine will not stay on turbo for more than a couple of seconds. I have fully charged the battery and that made no difference. I have used another 21700 battery and still get the same thing.

Is there something I have missed?

Thanks for any advice received.

I have experienced the same thing with mine. I thoroughly cleaned every point of electrical contact (there was grease on the bare end of the battery tube and on the bare metal in the tailcap). I cleaned the both ends of the battery, and the contact plate where the positive end of the battery makes contact inside the battery tube and the spring in the tailcap. Then a little general fiddling with the battery and tightening the tailcap, I was able to get it to stay in turbo. It is definitely very finicky though. So clean, clean, clean and fiddle a bit you should be able to get it to stay in turbo. And of course you need a fully charged battery for it to stay in turbo for any appreciable length of time.

JasonWW · 2018-09-12T17:38:13.000Z

I didn’t say to bypass the spring in the tail cap. That could void the warranty. I said to temporarily bypass the tail cap. This is two very different things. This can help pinpoint if there is an issue with the tail cap or if there is an issue somewhere else.

CoolJB · 2018-09-12T17:46:43.000Z

JasonWW:

I didn’t say to bypass the spring in the tail cap. That could void the warranty. I said to temporarily bypass the tail cap. This is two very different things. This can help pinpoint if there is an issue with the tail cap or if there is an issue somewhere else.

Sorry, my bad. I just skimmed your post (READING is fundamental) and assumed that’s what you meant, and we all know what happens when you assume…

TheAuditor · 2018-09-12T18:41:22.000Z

It turned out to be the positive terminal which was a bit dirty. All working OK now thank you.

M4D_M4X · 2018-09-12T18:48:27.000Z

thanks for sharing that!

glad it works now

JasonWW · 2018-09-12T19:41:41.000Z

TheAuditor:

It turned out to be the positive terminal which was a bit dirty. All working OK now thank you.

Cool.

These boost drivers are quite sensitive to any extra resistance. If the resistance goes up the driver tries to draw more and more power from the battery which causes the voltage to sag even more which makes the driver kick down to a lower level. It can be a vicious circle.

Bypassing the springs on both ends can give benefits, as well as using an unprotected battery, but I don’t want you to void your warranty.

Tom6 · 2018-09-22T06:29:05.000Z

What about the tint ?Are there 2 versions CW and NW?

scintillator · 2018-09-30T22:37:16.000Z

Tom6:

What about the tint ?Are there 2 versions CW and NW?

I would like hi cri option also,if possible.

CoolJB · 2018-10-22T04:48:55.000Z

I accidentally discovered another strange thing with my two MR50s. They only charge the battery to 4.0 volts. I tried both lights until the charge indicator turns green and they both do the same thing. I even tried both lights with a non-Rofis 21700 cell. Same thing, only charges it to 4.0 volts. Anybody else seeing the same thing with theirs. Is there any good reason why it would/should do this by design?

I’ve got an MR30 as well and I’m charging it right now to see if it does the same thing. Also have some MR70s and gonna check them as well.

UPDATE: I checked with a different, newer voltmeter and am getting 4.15 volts, which is closer to what I would expect. So NVM, false alarm/old and busted voltmeter… :rage:

JasonWW · 2018-10-22T04:03:50.000Z

CoolJB:

I accidentally discovered another strange thing with my two MR50s. They only charge the battery to 4.0 volts. I tried both lights until the charge indicator turns green and they both do the same thing. I even tried both lights with a non-Rofis 21700 cell. Same thing, only charges it to 4.0 volts. Anybody else seeing the same thing with theirs. Is there any good reason why it would/should do this by design?

I’ve got an MR30 as well and I’m charging it right now to see if it does the same thing. Also have some MR70s and gonna check them as well.

Maybe the light turns on too soon. Will it continue to charge?

CoolJB · 2018-10-22T04:49:22.000Z

JasonWW:

CoolJB:

I accidentally discovered another strange thing with my two MR50s. They only charge the battery to 4.0 volts. I tried both lights until the charge indicator turns green and they both do the same thing. I even tried both lights with a non-Rofis 21700 cell. Same thing, only charges it to 4.0 volts. Anybody else seeing the same thing with theirs. Is there any good reason why it would/should do this by design?

I’ve got an MR30 as well and I’m charging it right now to see if it does the same thing. Also have some MR70s and gonna check them as well.

Maybe the light turns on too soon. Will it continue to charge?

I think my old voltmeter must be crapping out. I checked using another newer voltmeter and I get 4.15 volts, which is closer to what I would expect. So false alarm/old and busted volt meter. :rage:

M4D_M4X · 2018-10-22T08:33:29.000Z

if the battery is low in a DMM (long before the bat low warning) they measure crap deluxe.

ask my pain working on medical equipment with calibrated high end flukes and "nothing matches"

when I found out the battery was a bit low I already screwed up the whole adjustment of the XRay

learned my lessons that day

CoolJB · 2018-10-22T13:33:59.000Z

M4D M4X:

if the battery is low in a DMM (long before the bat low warning) they measure crap deluxe.

ask my pain working on medical equipment with calibrated high end flukes and “nothing matches”

when I found out the battery was a bit low I already screwed up the whole adjustment of the XRay

learned my lessons that day

Yeah I thought about that, but I had just put a new battery in my old voltmeter. It’s really old and it’s been beat up pretty good over the years. I like to try and keep my old stuff up and running as long as possible. But I’ve more than gotten my money’s worth out of it. Time to finally retire it.

JESUS · 2018-10-27T04:12:44.000Z

Hello got promo code ? Thanks.