making 3. Batch Texas Avenger "TA" / Bistro HD OTSM drivers fully tested running Bistro or Narsil, Clicky or E-switch, SIR800

thanks lexel for the drivers, they works great.
my S70 draws 9.5A TC 4.06V keeppower
my L6 draws 8.3A TC 4.13V keeppower

Last drivers shipped today

tracking for the last 4

tracking numbers can be seen here

09. June

19. June

Mine are already in the post office system in my state and are on their way to my local post office :slight_smile:

Dang, really sad I missed out on this. New here and just learning about the TA + Narsil. Looks like exactly what I need for an upcoming mod. I look forward to batch number 4, if you choose to do another!

Think he started a 4th run?
Anyway its just what a big light like the L6 needs.

both L6 and S70 maxed out the dmm limit of 10A at TC with fresh LiitoKala :slight_smile:

Measuring with a dmm isn’t going to give you the best accuracy. A clamp meter would be better. The L6 with Liitokalas should be about 12 amps.

Mine were waiting for me at the post office when I picked upthis morning! Thanks Lexel

Got mine last week and forgot to post. They look good. Will be using the 30mm tomorrow when I rebuild my L6 using XHP70.2. Hopefully the current draw is reasonable. My KP 26650s all seem to have fairly high IR numbers, so I think it will be fine.

You’ll be fine with any 2S set-up, using 26650’s, I run the 70.2 P21A using the Sanyo IJoy and Efest 20700’s 19-20+ amps, in a Jax X6 Hunter, it’s the Lumintop SD75 70.2 P2 1A 2S2P on Sony VTC5A’s at over 23-24+ amps is when the 70.2 turns BLUE in Turbo…. till the batteries wear down a bit…

I’ve done that to two 50.2s now. Not sure about the 70.2 as the P2 1A I have used I have been nice to. The M2 30G 80+ CRI is going to go in the L6.

On the 50.2 it seems like a few times going blue is about all it can handle before it starts going blue using lower currents. Then half the emitter goes out.

Yep burned up a few of them 50.2’s, but the 70.2 is hanging tuff at up to 20 amps, Ive since run the older VTC5’s in the Lumintop, just a hint of blue for a short burst, assuming battery sag is kicking in, been working fine for the last 2 weeks, all 4 dies still looking good, 20 amps or less would be my guess for max current draw, if you want it to live some, my KP’s were giving up like 15 amps in the X6 Hunter, so with their high capacity they would be the best all around battery, again just a guess….

Worse case scenario if I toast them, I’ll re-flow the 4-70.2’s I have as spares and use normal batteries! :smiley:

The 70.2 is just Insanely Bright! :+1:

Yeah I have a P2 1A in a JKK36 host running only 4 to 5 amps and even that is almost as bright as my M2 30G XHP70 on DD. I also made a mistake, L6 is getting M4 30G 80+ 70.2, 1 bin brighter than my current 70.

just received a ut210e clamp meter today,
measuring with the clamp meter at TC with fresh LiitoKal
S70 draws 12A
L6 draws 10.5A

It’s odd they are so different.
Do they both have the same driver?

yes, same driver.

Hmm, same batteries?
Same positive wire size?
Maybe someone could give a reason?

ah ha! the wire size to the S70 is 18awg, and the wire size to the L6 is 22awg. remembering that i tried to solder 18awg on the L6 but couldn’t do it as it kept shorting with the reflector.

Oh cool! It’s good to know that 22ga can cut exactly 1.5 amp over 18ga.

A trick you can do with the wire is get the solder liquid and then remove the iron and quickly press down on the joint with something flat and metal. It will flatten the joint so that only the insulation will touch the reflector.

Another solution is to use a Dremel and remove some material on the reflectors base
And use some tape to protect the reflector from dust