Manker E14 Mods

Manker E14 Quad XP-L HI V2 1A - FET 17 - 18350 - Fw Clicky Sw - 2500lm.


Battery tube was too long at ends, leaving gaps, showing orings so I filed it down a little from 37mm to 36.5mm and blackened the copper head to see what it would look like.

The head was glued, it was not strong stuff though, quite chewy.
Wrapped up head & body well with G-tape and ran the light in turbo mode until very hot.
Twisted off bezel, difficulty rating – 4.
All XP-G2 emitters present and accounted for.
Plastic screw washers – washering, screws – not made from cheese.
Soldering – not too bad.

Thermal paste coverage – Fail, MCPCB – Fail.
This damage obviously kept the board raised slightly on one side so I’ve lapped it flat but this is as good as this MCPCB will be.

Raised bumps around screw taps & sharp edges around central wire hole on driver side countersunk fixed.
Extra long 24 AWG silicone wires replaced with shorter thicker 20 AWG.
Preliminary readings - 7.42A Max.

Swapped single driver spring for 2.5mm copper stud
Installed four XP-L HI v2 1A LED’s and changed polarity of the MCPCB.
Eventually changed the driver to a 17mm MTN FET with GuppyDrv Rev1. 8.51A Max.


Installed battery tube anti-rattle film – this is just thin sticky back plastic film (I like carbon fibre effect)
Measure inside diameter of tube, multiply by 3.14 and this will give the length you need for a nice tube insert.
Reverse clicky changed to forward clicky with wire spring bypass, sanded down switch retaining ring from 3.1mm to 2.42mm and used a thinner brass washer.
Tritium vial installed in lanyard slot


Manker E14 Quad XP-L HI V2 1A - FET 17 - 18350 - Fw Clicky Sw - 2500lm.


18500 battery tube version.

Very nice. I like your battery tube inner wrap. Your mod reminds me of mods gone by and rarely posted up today. Thanks for taking the time to post it up. :slight_smile:
I wonder how well the anodising would bake? :stuck_out_tongue:

thanks a lot for the nice pictures and sharing your great work

If it is the same ano as the X5/x6 it won’t bake nice and shiny :frowning:

Nice work CRX!

Awesome job CRX! 8^)

How did you blacken the copper head?

Thanks guys :THUMBS-UP:

I use cold bluing solutions for darkening metals.

Yes, nice simple tweaking.
No real stress, just a bit of spare time filled with minor tasks that make a nice little difference when completed.

Blackening?…please tell.
Anti rattle film? …I am curious yellow.

Nice work. The black head looks cool but I kinda like the showy copper.

Very nice.

Did you double up the rear spring by adding the front spring? I assume this is equivalent to a bypass.

I was lucky; no glue on mine.


Interesting! Can you provide a link to what you use? I can see a number of uses for this in my mods.

How about a compromise :wink:

Thread updated with new stuff about the head rebuilding and i think i’ve answered those who asked questions there.

Thanks for reading.

Pimp master.

Wow CRX. the black in the heatsink slots looks great! :slight_smile: :beer:

Hmm… after seeing the innards of yours I’m inclined to follow suit and do some tweaking. Nice looking head, too. Did you rub off the coating and will it patina now?

Thanks for posting this up :slight_smile:

Thanks for posting this very nice pictorial of the build and tweaks!

Is this copper?

Please, I need confirmation.

my S41 is glued so i can’t open it without damaging the head :FACEPALM:

It looks like we are looking at nickel. All Noctigons are very thin coated gold on the outside, nickel underneath to help the with the gold bonding, and then the solid copper under the nickel. Around the indentations, you can see all 3 layers.

The gold can be removed practically waving super fine grit sandpaper over it, while the nickel takes a little bit of rubbing. I've sanded down many a Noctigons over the years.

Thanks! It seemed aluminum.


Looks awesome.