Manker T01 "II"

AlexGT · 2018-03-14T02:15:33.000Z

sovereignknight:

Sweet! Though I can’t see myself needing to mod them. The driver is potted. (To me that’s a good thing.) The LED should be fine for a long time. Is it me seeing this or is there only half a star?

Yes it’s a proprietary half circle design, but you can probably fit other mcpcb’s with a little filing here and there…

Pavlo · 2018-03-14T02:26:11.000Z

Yes, I was really happy to see this. I was trying to find a place to buy the original one and it was very difficult to find. After some research, looks like the T01 V2 has the potential to be an equally good light with better battery compatibility.

I actually went ahead and ordered one to be modded with a Nichia 219C 4000K. I will lose some throw as a result, but will be much happier having the warmer CCT and high CRI.

I hear the NW HI is already really good, but still nice to be able to open the light once LED tech advances so you can still upgrade the light.

RobertB · 2018-03-14T03:02:22.000Z

AlexGT:

Is nice to know that it is not press fit, will edit post to reflect that…

And it looks like you were correct about the head being one piece

sovereignknight · 2018-03-14T04:09:07.000Z

Pavlo:

Yes, I was really happy to see this. I was trying to find a place to buy the original one and it was very difficult to find. After some research, looks like the T01 V2 has the potential to be an equally good light with better battery compatibility.

I actually went ahead and ordered one to be modded with a Nichia 219C 4000K. I will lose some throw as a result, but will be much happier having the warmer CCT and high CRI.

I hear the NW HI is already really good, but still nice to be able to open the light once LED tech advances so you can still upgrade the light.

Please share with us on how you mod the light when you get it. I am curious to know how you would make a full star fit for future reference.

Pavlo · 2018-03-14T14:17:10.000Z

I don’t think modding the light will be any different than the previous model:

[Review] Manker T01 (XP-L HI V3, 1x AA / 14500) 1 x AA / 1 x 14500 Flashlights

[image] MANKER T01 LED: CREE XP-L HI V3 Battery: 1x AA / 1x 14500 Modes: 15 (12 output levels, 3 strobes, programmable) Switch: Electronic switch on head Date: November 2015 Links: MankerLight.com · Banggood · RdL · ForoLinternas INTRODUCTION: Manker is a new manufacturer that seems to be working very hard to gain a foothold in the competitive market of power LED flashlights. After seeing their Manker Godmes recently, an original flashlight with innovative features, today we’ll review …

I don’t plan on changing the star, just remove the existing LED and reflowing the 219C.
I’ll keep you posted nonetheless.

TheDude · 2018-03-14T16:03:56.000Z

Been lurking for a while. Felt obligated to post.

https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/40074

Pavlo · 2018-03-16T02:08:52.000Z

TheDude, thanks for sharing this. Interesting to see how 1 person had success modding with 219C , and the other didn’t on lower modes.
Fingers crossed it works for me. Will keep the thread updated once done.

sovereignknight · 2018-03-27T23:18:01.000Z

Pavlo:

AlexGT:

Crenelated bezel is V1 non crenelated bezel is V2

V2 you cannot easily access the led/driver because the steel ring is press fit, on V1 you can because it is screwed on.

I like V1 better… wish they made a 2AA version of it.

I think we need to be careful to not make statements based on speculation and presenting them as facts as alot of people will base their purchase decision on the things that are stated in this forum.

Based on my research, and confirmation from Manker via email, the front stainless bezel unscrews and is not glued. This should allow equally good access to the LED as possible in V1.

Manker T01 II (小雞腿) 二代上市 - 哈啦灌水區 - 電筒王論壇手電筒,nitecore,olight,acebeam,fenix,jetbeam

How did you unscrew the ring on that T01 II ? Was it difficult to remove? What type of tool do I need to take one apart.

sovereignknight · 2018-03-28T04:45:22.000Z

I received both of my Manker T01 II’s today. Unfortunately there are problems with both of them.
The problems seem to be related to the 1.5v side of the light. I have used an Eneloop Pro cell.

Using 14500 Manker cells, everything works fine.

The first light will not offer any mode accept High mode, clicking it to cycle modes does nothing when using an Eneloop Pro cell.
You can double click and go into the flashing modes with no issues.

I can not program the light with a Eneloop Pro as holding the button down to activate program mode will do nothing accept shut the light off after 5-6 seconds.

The Second light works fine through modes EXCEPT when I go to program it.
When I go to program it in low mode, It cycles through Med low, then low low, then it jumps into high high. That’s not even suppose to be in that mode group!
All the other program mode groups work normally.

So far I’ve been having bad luck with AA powered flashlights. First the Lumintop EDC05 and now Manker. I’m beginning to lose faith in these two brands due to quality control issues.

sovereignknight · 2018-03-29T05:20:45.000Z

I have given up on these Manker lights. These where the first lights I have bought from them and they will be the last. I buy two of them and they BOTH have problems.

I think now I understand why Zebralights are more expensive. For the money I spent on these T01-II, and the time I took to make videos to show the problems, I could have just spent a little more and bought the Zebralights.

Pavlo · 2018-03-29T21:59:23.000Z

@ Sovereignnight
-What vendor did you buy them from?
-Had to make a small notch in the metal retaining ring in order to get sufficient grip to unscrew it. MOD not yet complete…

sovereignknight · 2018-03-29T22:22:15.000Z

EDCGEAR, Amazon store.

I gave up on them and sending them back. I’m just gunna go with the Zebralight SC5W II. I was just using them for the AA function and Max brightness. The T01 II didn’t work correctly on AA Eneloop Pros. The Manker’s worked ok on 14500 but I didn’t want them for that. 14500 was just a bonus.

I’ve had so much bad luck with Lumintop EDC05, now the Manker, I’m done with the hedaches and Im just going to break down and buy the expensive stuff. Hopefully the Zebras will be problem free.

Pavlo · 2018-03-29T22:49:05.000Z

@sovereignknight

Live update, my light was exhibiting erratic behavior and seemed faulty. Noticed transparent glue used on the tailcap that was covering the contact plate. Scrapped it off and issue went away. Might be worth looking at yours to see if that is causing the issue.

sovereignknight · 2018-03-29T22:55:27.000Z

I cleaned all the contacts on the pair with 92% Isopropyl. Springs, cap, positive terminal. None of it helped. I desperately wanted to keep the lights as they really are nice looking lights, but the quality control just isn’t there. I feel my money is best spent on the Zebra. I was fighting that too as Zebras are friggin pricey but I’ll give em a shot. Hopefully I’ll have better luck this time.

Pavlo · 2018-03-29T23:06:46.000Z

Too bad on your T01’s…

I own Zebralights as well, highly recommended! The T01 was more of a project light so that I can own a compact high CRI thrower, which appear to be scarce in the flashlight world.

sovereignknight · 2018-03-30T00:07:28.000Z

I think Manker had a great offering. That’s why I went with it too. It was the closest thing to the Zebra but cheaper and had throw. I heard good things about Manker so I didn’t even expect issues. Sadly that was not the case. If Manker could perfect that light, it would really be a great solid piece.

It seems that high powered lumen AA lights need allot of refinement.

BT100 · 2018-03-30T02:44:08.000Z

I have a t01 (1st gen) been using it for over a year now with no problems at all…

jon_slider · 2018-03-30T19:14:59.000Z

sovereignknight:

Zebras are friggin pricey but I’ll give em a shot. Hopefully I’ll have better luck this time.

I look forward to your success.
fwiw, a friend bought a Zebra SC5c recently and returned it because it did not work on Ultimate Lithium. The replacement had the same problem, so he returned it also.

You will be fine w eneloop, as long as you are OK with the yellow/green tint. Most posters tend to like the SCxx W tint better than the SCxx C versions, even though the CRI is lower on the W…

thanks for sharing your impressions

sovereignknight · 2018-03-30T19:44:19.000Z

Yeah I ordered two SC5W MK II. I didn’t want a 4000k tint. Too yellow. 4500k is better but if I had a choice I’d have went with minimum 5000k.

I can live with 80cri.

AlexGT · 2018-03-30T20:00:53.000Z

BT100:

I have a t01 (1st gen) been using it for over a year now with no problems at all…

Same here!