Hi, I have a few question about two different lights so I’m going to bundle them right here
First is what battery to drive an Xpl hi when using a Fet driver in a C8? Currently the C8 has a 7135*12 and using a new NCR18650PF. I only gained 1amp (total 4amps) adding 4*7135 to existing 8* driver. I’m sure that same battery can push more with a Fet but how much? My goal is around 7 amps if that’s safe for xpl Hi, nothing crazy.
I thought about getting a VTC6 for this setup (xpl Hi, fet driver & C8) but will that be too much current for the led? I have no idea that outcome…
I picked up a A4 V2 light and it’s a really sweet one but I believe I’d like my C8 with its Hi emitter better if pushed harder.
Lastly, I’m building a S2+ with OP reflector and 7135*8 and need a suggestion on led. I tend to lean towards CW and avoid the warmer ones. What would be ideal led that’s not too warm yet still has good colors? I was checking out the XPL-V6-3D, which is 4750-5000?
I’m still new to these lights but getting there
Thanks
The NCR18650PF should be fine since it’s good for up to 10 amps.
Is your tail spring bypassed in the C8? Anything over 3 amps should have the spring bypassed. And what gauge wires are you using from the driver to the LED? I would go with at least 22 AWG.
it may be the driver issue, is it 1 mode driver with no ic? or multimode with ic? i had similar issue with multimode 8x7135 driver, it was not putting out 2.8a even with healthy fresh cell. the issue was too much voltage drop across either ic, or reverse polarity protection diode, or both. 7135 were starving for voltage, the same driver was putting 2.8a with no issues with 4 eneloops.
you have an option of 1 removing reverse polarity diode, 2 removing the diode as well as ic, or 3 try another driver.
in theory it should not happen, when all parts are up to specks and have correct tolerance, but sometimes they do not, and this happens, after all those are very cheap drivers, anything is possible,
Yes, tail spring has been bypassed. The wire looks to be around 20awg but no less than 22. Its wire that I paid Richard a few cents extra to add when I bought the driver. Since you mentioned it…I will double check. I have some fine strand silver 20awg to use if needed. Good thinking.
Alpg88, it’s a multimode with guppydrv. It worked great @ 3 amps stock. I later stacked 4 7135 but it only gained 1 amp. I thought maybe the new battery mentioned was sagging even though it’s supposed to be capable of 10amps. I think its possible that 4 amps is all that combination will put out and is why I decided to buy a fet driver.
I’m thinking this battery would be allowed to flow more amps with better driver. In other words no matter how many 7135 I stack, that battery probably wont push much more in that configuration. I’m not positive on that, but will update once I know
you could try 4x nimh just to to test if the driver can put out what you want, if it wont give you what you need, with that much voltage overhead, it prbly not worth messing with. but if it can……. it’s your call anyway. just keep in mind if you run it for long on 4x cells, it overheats 7135 chips. and they start shutting off on internal temp protection 1 by 1, but not permanently, they’ll be fine once cooled off.
I also want to add that 4 amps is probably all I should expect from 12 7135’s. No real complaint on that. My thing thing is figuring out if my existing 10 amp Panasonic battery could push around 7 amps with a fet driver. NF answered that.
FET is definitely better, 7135 drivers are not really made for more than 3A, i wonder if copper traces on the board are even capable of that much current. also the tail switch, stock convoy switch and 7A idk, might want to get McClicky they are good for 6A , or get 10A judco switch and somehow shoehorn it in there, i have done that before. just get low version with tabs, not wires. and it wil require some careful trimming