Maxtoch E1+ Rainbow // Quad 5000 Lumens - single 18650 EDC // Full Review

Agro · 2018-12-17T15:00:13.000Z

Thanks for the test of this very intriguing light. 30 seconds turbo seems very good at this size and performance.
I see that you measured output, did you measure throw as well?
How is tint shift?
Could you show us some pics of the driver?

BlueSwordM · 2018-12-17T15:03:43.000Z

I’m not one to complain, but why are they using an uncoated Beryllium Copper spring?

That’s just asking for oxidation and reduced performance over time because of this.

robo819 · 2018-12-17T15:36:22.000Z

Agro:

Thanks for the test of this very intriguing light. 30 seconds turbo seems very good at this size and performance.
I see that you measured output, did you measure throw as well?
How is tint shift?
Could you show us some pics of the driver?

My sample actually goes to 45 seconds before it steps down from Turbo , but they list 30 seconds……One thing to remember is that my sample is a prototype and is NOT serial numbered or anything like the ones bought from the website will be. The sample I have reviewed may not reflect exactly what is to be expected as Maxtoch is usually pretty tedious with their testing and final products.

I just took a measurement at 5 meters and I am getting 204 meters of throw according to my meter. This is a more floody light with somewhat of a hotspot but not really that tight.

The tint is cool on my sample in all modes with it getting cooler as the modes go higher. They are offering the 4500K to 5000K tint also though if the cool tint is not wanted.

I have not tried to take the driver out yet and probably wont mess with it until after Christmas if I do decide to. It is either glued or pressed in very tightly. With so much going on right now getting ready for the holidays I prefer to wait and take my time so I can be sure I do not damage anything when / if I do take the driver out.

robo819 · 2018-12-17T15:37:38.000Z

BlueSwordM:

I’m not one to complain, but why are they using an uncoated Beryllium Copper spring?

That’s just asking for oxidation and reduced performance over time because of this.

I am assuming to get the most current from the spring maybe? It does not take that much to clean the spring every couple of months though , as this one is pretty easily accessible

BlueSwordM · 2018-12-17T15:40:13.000Z

No, not really. Even a small nickel plating would really help with oxidation.

Especially with high currents, oxidation is accelerated, and contact resistance goes up significantly.

And at that price, I would expect a silver plated/gold plated Beryllium Copper spring.

robo819 · 2018-12-17T16:11:48.000Z

BlueSwordM:

No, not really. Even a small nickel plating would really help with oxidation.

Especially with high currents, oxidation is accelerated, and contact resistance goes up significantly.

And at that price, I would expect a silver plated/gold plated Beryllium Copper spring.

I cant tell if there is any clear coating or not on this particular spring but, so far the color is just like it started out with no signs of oxidation. I am not familiar as you may be , with Beryllium Copper , with the time period it would take to start oxidizing or turning a different color , but with me having had this light very hot a number of times and also a number of hours running in all modes , would it not be showing some signs of oxidation by now if it were not coated?

EDIT: thinking about it I guess clear coating would also cut down on the current too……lol

DB_Custom · 2018-12-17T16:32:43.000Z

I don’t think the spring will cause any issue for a long time to come. The light makes really nice output, looks sweet, seems like a nice fancy edc for a businessman or a woman. In the majority of cases for this type of light, losing a few lumens due to any oxidation on the spring is not likely to be a concern. Maxtoch builds lights for Military and Police, pretty sure they know what they’re doing…

Thanks for the review robo, or maybe not so much, as you know I love Titanium and am broke!

Agro · 2018-12-17T16:55:34.000Z

2.15 cd/lm. Floooody.

Umpi2000 · 2018-12-17T17:01:39.000Z

That’s gorgeous!
I love that colour effect!

DB_Custom · 2018-12-17T17:13:07.000Z

While Maxtoch is calling for this light to have XP-L2 emitters, this prototype has XP-L HD emitters. (XP-L2’s are flip chip technology, no visible bond wires, and the yellow phosphor completely covers the substrate. The pics show white on the outer substrate and the bond wires are clearly visible.) So if they indeed do put XP-L2’s in the production units they should make more lumens…

Robo, I’d ask Amanda about this, see what they’re planning.

Edit: From the Maxtoch website…

Clearly there is a mistake somewhere…

robo819 · 2018-12-17T21:56:40.000Z

DB Custom:

While Maxtoch is calling for this light to have XP-L2 emitters, this prototype has XP-L HD emitters. So if they indeed do put XP-L2’s in the production units they should make more lumens…

Robo, I’d ask Amanda about this, see what they’re planning.

Gonna send an email to her as soon as I post this……My sample does indeed have the XP-L HD emitters in it as I just went and took a close look at them and I had not paid attention to the emitters to even know they were not the listed XP-L2 emitters. If they are advertising the XP-L2 then that is what I hope they are going to be putting in the final product.

On the positive side even with the XP-L HD that are in the light it is only 169 lumens short of the listed 5000 lumens output , so it should make or better that 5000 lumen rating with the advertised emitters.

Edit: The more I think about it the better I like the idea of keeping the XP-L emitters over the XP-L2 , because with the XP-L you don’t have that olive green cast around the outside of the spill like the XP-L2 emitters tend to have many times.

DB_Custom · 2018-12-17T17:20:49.000Z

Hey Blue, FastTech sells the small caro-bronze springs that look copper but are very stiff, could this spring be of that type material? I don’t recall ever seeing beryllium copper being unplated, Intl-Outdoor sells em gold plated. Doesn’t the actual chemistry have a lot to do with how it oxidizes and to what extent that will affect current transfer?

On this smallish Titanium light, reducing current draw might well be a positive experience, allowing it to be held longer.

BlueSwordM · 2018-12-17T17:28:36.000Z

@DB Custom, the Fasttech Carobronze they are made of phosphor bronze rather than Beryllium Copper.

You can get unplated Beryllium Copper springs, like in this picture, but it is not recommended because of heightened contact resistance which can go even higher than non-plated steel when oxidized:

Most copper alloys used in springs aren’t corrosion resistance because they are used for current handling, and using one would either affect conductivity/contact resistance/yield strength.

Also, with higher currents come higher temperatures, and higher tendencies to oxidize.

I can already see it on his sample, the bottom wire being already oxidized, and the top coil starting to be so.

DB_Custom · 2018-12-17T17:40:53.000Z

So if you cut the tab off an Omten switch and soldered it over the spring you’d eliminate the contact issue, right? (Omten switch tabs are always long and have to be trimmed to mount on a board, using one of these trimmed off ends to cover the end of the spring would put a different surface as the contact. )

DB_Custom · 2018-12-17T17:42:57.000Z

Supposition though, at this point, as we don’t have a way of knowing what the MaxToch spring is made of.

BlueSwordM · 2018-12-17T17:45:37.000Z

Yeah. We know it’s at least a copper alloy.

And why would you cut the tab off an Omten switch? Why

Sorry if I was a bit too specific in my complaint.

I did so much work related to springs, and learned so much, that it became engrained in my head.

DB_Custom · 2018-12-17T17:48:20.000Z

I think they used the phosphor bronze for this spring, to tell you the truth. And it won’t oxidize like a beryllium copper would. Might not carry the current, but then if the light is making 5000 lumens I’d say it’s doing allright how it is.

Ever buy the large Omten switches? They have very long tabs that stick straight out the side. You have to bend the tab to match your board and cut off the excess. Even the small ones have longer tabs than necessary to fit on the standard 15mm pcb.

robo819 · 2018-12-17T18:10:04.000Z

Well whatever these are made of , they need a lot of heat for solder to stick to them.

Problem solved though with some solder at each point of contact.

Franz · 2018-12-17T19:51:39.000Z

Thanks Robo, excellent review

I miss the graph with runtimes and stepdown

So, whats the max continuous output? It van stand on medium mode?

robo819 · 2018-12-17T20:51:30.000Z

Franz:

Thanks Robo, excellent review :+1:

I miss the graph with runtimes and stepdown :cry:

So, whats the max continuous output? It van stand on medium mode?

Thanks ………

I am not exactly sure what you are wanting to know however.

Once the light steps down from Turbo it keeps dropping lumens throughout the rest of the runtime testing as I checked at 5 minutes , 15 minutes and then 30 minute intervals the rest of the time until the low voltage warning blinked. (listed in the charts in the OP)

I did just turn the light on in Medium mode and it ran for 5 minutes before it stepped down to 462 lumens at that time and I am sure it would be similar to the first testing I did and run for a pretty long time from there…
Of course I tested with a different cell than Maxtoch did and I used a 3000mAh instead of a 2500 mAh as their test are based on.

Not trying to be a smart azz here but……As far as the max CONTINOUS output , that would be something I would welcome a graph on from someone who might purchase one of these lights , be willing to spend the time to test each individual mode and make the graphs on all the modes and the sustained or continous output and runtime of each of those modes.