Mixed-tint TR-J18 (wait, do what now?)

5-level 9x LED 'Beast Driver' flayed open on the operating table

Thoughts? Predictions?

I like the tint mixing. :)

Good luck with the driver..

White.

And lots of it.

With a lovely Lavender ring around it.

Looking at the Relative Spectral Distribution charts, you should have the “Daylight” white zone pretty well covered.

And thank you all for letting me be the first to plead for

BEAMSHOTS, please??? I’d like to see it on a plain white (not “eggshell” nor “cream” nor … well, you know) wall, for comparison sake, as well as any others you choose.

In any case, I’d bet (no, that’s illegal in this state) you’ll love it far more than its cost.

:party:

Dim

I'm watching.

I've got a J18 and a beast driver collecting dust. I knew if I installed it, it wouldn't last long, so it sits until I can figure out how to drive seven LEDs with some permanence.

I hope you've got some strong juju that will allow you to create a zombie from the drivers dead corpse.

I think the tint will be about 4500k...for about fifteen minutes.

Good luck, I hope the surgery is successful.

My thoughts are why you did not post any night shots.

Because my time machine is in the shop getting a tune-up. They called yesterday (edit: or maybe it was tomorrow?) to tell me they had to special order the temporal comparator from the warehouse on Tau Ceti, can you believe it?! Damn 'just-in-time' supply chain is a total scam, if you ask me...

How did you able to pry the old LEDs off ? was it hard? :smiley:

Hammer and blunt chisel. NO MERCY! :evil:

The important part survived. The 4 XM-Ls still work, too. The MCPCBs, not so much.

Was it hard centering 7 LED stars? I’ve always wanted to change the LEDs in my J18 but the thought of removing and putting back those LEDs is daunting.

It's not built yet! That first pic is just a reference to be used when I get around to gluing them down (JB Weld - go big or go home, right?). All the solder pads have to be pointed in the right directions to be able to run the wires in the right order with the least amount of aggravation.

Like so:

Just wondering.. could you use BLF driver with this light if you want to run it 2 3 LEDs in series and 1 MT-G2 by itself? will it work? :D

You'd only be able to use it with 2 cells (four three strings of two XMLs each, plus one MTG2), there isn't a combo with or without the MTG2 that'd work with 3 cells and this number of LEDs.

The 5x lights work with 4 XML/1 MTG2, but again only with 2 cells. You can just pretend the single MTG2 is two '3v' LEDs, it's effectively transformed into a 6x light (which is divisible by 2, the number of cells). The original 5x XML setup isn't divisible by either 2 or 3.

For 3 cells, you need one of the 9x or 12x lights (or a 6x, which I haven't seen yet in this type of light), all XMLs, which you wire up with 3 (9x) or 4 (12x) strings of 3 LEDs each.

Holy smokes that is a lot of different tints!

I'm always impressed with your polishing of the aluminum shelf for the leds btw. How on earth do you do it? My guess would be inhuman patience.. OH! You cheat! A time machine. I hould have known LOL :-)

Only 3 different tints, 1C/6500K, 3B/5200K, 4C/4500K. The single 1C probably won't have much influence on the overall combined tint.

Start with scraping, single edge razor blade. Works great. It's like checking the surface with a straightedge while you're working the metal. Then I go right to 600 grit wet sanding. Take a 1/2" round hot glue stick, lightly melt the end and stick it to the backside of the sandpaper. Let it cool and then trim off the excess paper. Voila, a sanding pad with a built-in handle. When the paper wears out, trim off and discard the end part, and glue on more sandpaper. Finish is either with jeweler's rouge paste, or Duragloss cotton wadding. Really, just 3 steps, with a single grade of paper. Razor blade, 600 grit, polish. (so now you can snicker like I do when you see someone describing how they went through 20 steps of progressively finer and finer paper. It's just not needed.)

Instead of a razor blade, I use an SOS pad. It cleans off all the gunk and doesn’t leave scratches. Even if there is anodizing, the SOS pads don’t even leave a mark on it. Very effective, yet gentle.

This was already bare aluminum anyway (and had deep scratches and gouges and even some sticky-up bits, too). Have you tried a razor blade on aluminum? Stand the blade up vertical, then drag it side to side, kinda like stropping a straight razor. It does leave marks but it's more of a... well, I don't know how to describe it, but it's definitely not scratches - if it makes any distinct lines it's time to toss it and get a fresh blade. Just about always, if you start with a new blade and use it for nothing but scraping Al it'll work fine even past when it's worn down and dull, but if it's been used for other things and has nicks in it (or your aluminum has small bits of non-aluminum embedded in it before you start), it won't work well.

Thank you for the tip. A razor. I'd never guessed it if you had not told me! TY.

Does anybody have copied down somewhere an accurate description of what the 'beast drivers' do for overheat/voltage/whatever protection? KD's page is light on details, LCK-LED's whole site seems to have had every single listing removed, though I don't know if the drivers from different sources have the same firmware.

What I've seen it do a few times is blink twice and then turn off. Power has to be cycled a few times to bring it back to life. It's running on 3 cells so I doubt it's the voltage protection junk doing it.

Has anybody investigated just which components on the driver are making the heat? I'd much rather try to add copper strips bent around to connect the hot parts to the ground ring to be clamped between the driver & head, rather than just slathering it with goop and hoping that's enough.

From LCK page: Over-heat Protection: 55-60 degree. When it becomes too hot, the driver will automatically ramp down its brightness, and flash once per 5 seconds.

From Lightmalls Page: LED: 9xT6,9xU2,9xP7,9xS2
Output voltage: 30V
Working voltage: 6-12V
Automatic constant temperature: When the temperature exceeds the preset threshold, it will lower the output current to protect the LED and driver.
Low voltage protection for three li-ion battery (series): When battery voltage is lower than 9V, lower voltage protection activates and lower output to low mode and blink twice every five seconds. (Restart twice can remove protection function.)
Overheat protection: 55-60 degrees. Automatically lower the power to adjust the brightness.
LED current: 2.6-3A
Measurement: Battery board measures 26mm
Main driver measures 24mm
Total heigh measures 30mm
Output power:3-4 li-ion battery LED current 2.8-3A,70-100W.
Modes:3 Modes At High 100% Mid 30% Low 5%
Warning: Blink once per 5 seconds-high temperature, can not change mode, in the protection situation.
Operation: When power-down less than 2 seconds will change the mode, more than 3 seconds won’t change the mode.
Connecting methods: Red line to LED+, Black line to LED-. Positive line to the mid of board, negative line to the side of board.
Attention: This is a high power driver. Please make sure you use the high capacity and high self-discharge rate batteries. Power switch should be more than 10A, the total input current is up to 7-8A.