Modding Trustfire SSC P7 C-BIN

Has anyone modded this flashlight ?

I've got it and i'm kinda happy with it, BUT since i have WF-1300L it's also little too dim after that...

i don't own any SST-50 flashlight yet so i was wondering if it would be possible to mod this flashlight to work

with that led ?

Could it be done ? is there a dropin module?

An SST-50 needs 5 amps to really show what it is capable of. I suspect that with a P7 driver it would disappoint. I don't know of any reasonably cheap 5A drivers though doubtless they'll be along. KD have one for $10 here.

The light looks easy enough to mod - I have an Aurora AK-P7 that is very similar and it comes apart easily. The size of the driver might be a problem especially as KD specifications are often (usually) wrong. Heat might be a problem - make sure of good heat transfer so it doesn't cook the LED or driver.

Rather than change the LED out, you might check and see if the driver is doing its job. If it is delivering 2.8A (or close to it) then the P7 is maxed out already. But if the driver is weak (1.4 amps or less), then a new driver might make a big difference. On one battery, you won't get 2.8A for long (if at all), but it might be worth doing.

A good point that ought to have occurred to me too. KD have plenty of P7 drivers

I do not think it worthwhile.
An SST-50 to about 2.8A falls short of the 900 lumens which gives P7.

The only reason would be a more concentrated light, but the OP reflector will not help you on that.

In Direct Drive is a danger for the batteries, because that exceeds the safe limit of Amps in ordinary (chinese) 18650.

Also depends on the chosen bin:
F 413-525 lm @ 2.8A (560mA/mm²)
G 525-638 lm @ 2.8A (560mA/mm²)
H 638-750 lm @ 2.8A (560mA/mm²)
J 750-900 lm @ 2.8A (560mA/mm²)*
K 900-1050 lm @ 2.8A (560mA/mm²)

I think a few more lumens not worth the expense and risk...

Edit: as an addition, a sst-50 using the hollow reflector size XR-E (Q5, R2 ... etc). The hole for a P7 is going to be very large.

SST-50's primary advantages over P7/MCE is the higher power and that it is a single big die instead of a quad die array. IMO, it is a waste of money to switch from P7/MCE to SST-50 unless if you also switch to a 4-5A driver or a smooth reflector.

EastwardYJ YJ-XGR2 + A DD SST-50 = nice bright light : )

The entire LED output chart/list can be found here.

That's a great gathering of information. I reformatted it and posted it in the Flashlight Wiki:

One tiny cavil about that useful list that is now in my bookmarks - the Lumileds Luxeon really should have Rebel on the name - there are also the K2 LEDs available AFAIK. Fixed it.

Glad to hear that the info were useful, just note that some of the unavailable bins are extrapolated from lower bins and not obtained from datasheets and that the current top flux bin for XP-E is R3.

Thanks for fixing it, Don. That's the great thing about a wiki (sometimes a bad thing) is that anyone can make improvements. I added the info about the XP-E R3.

I'd pretty much forgotten about the Wiki as it got totally trashed a few years ago not long after I'd spent an age putting in data on which lights could and couldn't handle RCR123s.

It would be a great idea if stuff like the lumen measurements from a calibrated sphere were in there - I plan to use some of those to get better lumen estimates out of my lightbox. OK it isn't a sphere and my meter is about as far from lab-grade as it gets but I am working on getting more reliable lumen estimates than my current ones.

At present they are only reliable in the same way that the astronomy lecturer in college said 4π/3 was equivalent to 1 (around 4.2).

Stuff tends to disappear from CPF when they upgrade or update the software and the more that is in the Wiki the merrier. It is less likely to vanish from there.

Astronomy is one of those sciences where if you are within an order of magnitude, you aren't far off.

It would be nice to get the lumen readings in the Wiki, but they have it stickied and it is an enormous amount of data (most of it seems to be readings of custom-built stuff that I'm not interested in) so I don't want to try to get it on the Wiki. It also has time dependencies, battery dependencies, and for P60 modules you get host dependencies. Throw in modes and you can get a ton of data for just one light. And copy of a light will give you a little bit different readings than another copy. Too much for me to get worried about, though I do appreciate the guy posting all of it.

I also liked the guy's approach to chemistry. I was a chemistry major at the time. Apparently astronomers have three elements, hydrogen, helium, and "metals". Pity about the 100-odd others.

I see what you mean about the lumen readings - too many dependencies to make it other than very complex. And, like you, I've no interest in the hand built and extremely expensive devices. But I'll bet most of them are prettier than my customisation ;)

Erhmm... little offtopic maybe.... ??

More of a tangent really : )

Might be a rehash of earlier posts, but here are some, IMO, fairly direct answers:

1. Yes, it could be done but it would not help the output much unless you also switch regulator and/or reflector.

2. You could search DX or KD for a drop in, but since the light in question, judging from the photos at DX, was not designed for use with a drop in it may be hard to find a drop in that fits.

Is there a simple way to test the driver? I think that the problem could be there.

It is fiddly. What you need to do is unsolder one of the leads to the LED and stick an ammeter between that lead and the LED. Make sure you don't look at the LED and use heavy gauge wires to the meter.