States 8.4 volt but happily runs at 12 volt with no issue.
But I want to mod it so i can power it on from a handle bar switch.
At the moment when powered on, the rear button lights up but the lamp does not come on.
What would i need to do to make it power on as soon as the battery is connected via the bar mounted switch, without the need to reach down to the lamp and press in on. I want to fit two or three of these on the bike, one pointing down and low as a dip headlamp, then another mid way down the road and the next as High beam.
Obviously can’t leave the high beam on all the time as it will blind people …so want an on/off switch on the bars that can be flicked on/off when cyclin without the need to move my hands from the bars…rather like a car or motorcycle high / low function.
Does anyone recognise anything on the driver board that could be modified? or would I need to swap driver boards?
I ran the lamp up the other day with some scrap Li Ion cells. they only give about 300mAh, so are destined for the bin.
As you can see in the following pictures. the connections are very dubious. But these are the wattage input figures for these lamps as standard. The cells were only joined by ‘looping’ the bent and snapped off old connecting straps. SO obviously expect a little more with good cells and proper connections.
Inputs were roughly
High 7.3 Watt
Med 3.9 Watt
Low 1.7 Watt.
OK pretty meaningless if we don’t know the efficiency, but have not built an IS or bought any lux measuring device yet.
You can see how poor the cells are, and the voltage drop in under a minute.
Not measured the driver output current yet. Will break out the proper Fluke DVM for that, and run it on a much better battery.
Cut out occurred when input voltage dropped to around 5.6 volts., from memory.
I suppose a better answer may just be to dump the original driver and fit something else. Any suggestions as to what?