I just noticed that on the MTG2 data sheet there is an “easy white” 90 CRI version… pumping out 500ish lumen at 1.1 amps… thats more than double what a 219 does at that current… and also way more efficient than the 90 cri XML2 s6s
whos gonna be the first to make a nice mtg2 90 cri flooder? 
i guess maybe once we start seeing more drivers?
any thoughts guys?
The MTG-2 You’re looking at is a 6V Part (Roughly double the forward voltage of an XM-L or 219). It’s not “Way more efficient” than the emitters you mentioned.
PPtk
If you find one, give us the link. I’ll go for it.
Cutter has them…
http://www.cutter.com.au/proddetail.php?prod=cut1462&cat=167 (2 Step Macadams)
http://www.cutter.com.au/proddetail.php?prod=cut1461&cat=167 (4 Step Macadams)
PPtk
PilotPTK, could you run through the descriptions for me so I can understand these…two step…four step…6V.
Sometimes these descriptions befuddle me. Are the steps modes? Do they run on 6v max, as in two CR123. That doesn’t sound right. Could you give me an idea of the cell types they require and driver specs I would be looking for?
ah yes - i forgot the Vf is much higher… once again I am humbled by a more knowledgeable member
Hmm, 3000K is pretty warm.
I think the 90 cri, as someone stated, are warm not neutral.
i THINK step macadams refer to the possible variance from stated color - 4 step having greater possibility of variance than 2 step. if you buy two of the 4 step, they’re more likely to have a slightly different color than if you buy two “2 step”.
Hi,
The first one linked in post #3 appears to show “36 volts” in the red “stamp”, but when you go to the page, it says it’s 6 volts.
The second linked in post #3 appears to show “6 volts” in the red “stamp”.
Is the 1st one linked 6 volts or 36 volts?
Thanks,
Jim
Edit: This is the “red stamp” I was talking about:
Both of them they I linked are 6V Parts.
The CREE Part Number of the first one is MTGBEZ-00-0000-0B0UG030H which equates to a 6V, 3000K, 90CRI, G0 Bin, 2-Step Macadams, 30H Tint.
The CREE Part Number of the second one is MTGBEZ-00-0000-0B0UG030F which equates to 6V, 3000K, 90CRI, G0 Bin, 4-Step Macadams, 30F Tint.
PPtk
P.S. CREE MT-G2 Datasheet
two step vs. four step has already been correctly answered. 6V is the nominal forward voltage of the part at 1100mA. The forward voltage can vary from about 5.7V to 7V according to the datasheet. LEDs don’t have modes - the driver is what determines the modes. Cell types are also driver dependent - The necessary input voltage will depend on whether you’re using a Linear, Boost, Buck or Buck-Boost driver.
For a driver, you’ll be looking for one that can output ~6V at a current of 3A for maximum suggested drive. Match did some testing on the MT-G2 and found that it can be overdriven quite hard - to perhaps 5 or 6A. A 3A Driver designed for two XM-L emitters in series would be perfect for the MT-G2.
PPtk
Could you direct-drive these with 2 x LiFePO4 batteries in series?
Probably not. LiFEPO4 can put out a LOT of current, and you’d be far enough up the V/I curve with two of them that you’d probably pump a TON of current through the emitter. If your light had enough parasitic resistance (springs, switch, etc), then maybe, but my guess is that it would be REALLY bright for about 100mS and then really dim.
PPtk
(aka… POFF! 
)
Im not sure, but PilotPTK knows his stuff… Better not to gamble. Or on second though… ohaya YOU try it! Tell us if it works… 0:)
Ahhh yes, the infamous Dark Emitting Diode… I’ve never made one before… 0:)
Actually (and seriously), I’ve been thinking about it, but I’m trying to figure out what light, and how (what drivers, etc.), I could try it. I’ve already killed a couple of lights in my short “career” here, but I don’t particularly enjoy seen that “blue light of death” (“BLOD” - pretty good, huh :)?), so I’d want to try to do it as judiciously as possible, understanding that I still might end up BlOD’ing the emitter.
I had posted earlier looking for a light that took an emitter with a 20mm PCB, because of that.
Jim
Edit: BTW, do you guys ENJOY beating up on the “new guy”
[quote=PilotPTK]
Probably not. LiFEPO4 can put out a LOT of current, and you’d be far enough up the V/I curve with two of them that you’d probably pump a TON of current through the emitter. If your light had enough parasitic resistance (springs, switch, etc), then maybe, but my guess is that it would be REALLY bright for about 100mS and then really dim.
PPtk[/
Actually, it will probably bubble up the dome, creating some weird artifacts and changing tint, then a couple of the individual sections die, then the whole thing, all in a second or two. Much more fun than your average emitter death lol
These things are robust
I believe if it is not blown up OL has the 3000K MTG-2 in his possesion.
Thanks Pilot.
With the cost of shipping, I want to have all my ducks in a row. Before ordering, I’ll want to have already decided on what driver and host I’m going to use.
I’ll also want to fill my shopping cart to make it worth while. If anyone can think of any other “must have” purchases I should consider from Cutter, send me a link…maybe some hi CRI XM-L2s. I tend to get lost navigating the cutter site.