I just finished my lighted side switch. A complete success on the first try!
This light has the FX30 driver from Kaidomain with the weird firmware that let’s you turn the light on and off with the side switch. The only problem is telling if the rear switch is on or off. I’m always double checking it. Now I always know plus can find the switch in the dark. No more fumbling for it! Yay!
First I filed out some notches to the switch hole to allow easier driver swaps. Kudos to Kawiboy for the suggestion. Note that the top and bottom lips are very thin, but the sides are very thick. So it’s very quick and easy to file in the locations where mine are.
Then I took 2 white SMD LEDS, kudos to DBCUSTOM for the LEDs, and added them like in my diagram above.
I bridged the rear connector to get power to both LEDs. The resistor is a 15K ohm. I believe that’s equivalent to 7.5k ohm per LED. It’s bright enough, but not too bright. The amp draw went from 1.45 milliamp to 1.85 milliamp. So no big deal for me.
Here’s a video of it. I’m a bit long winded. Lol
The clear switch covers are from Convoy. Simon uses them on the clear version of the L6. He will send you some only for the cost of shipping (a couple dollars) or if you buy something he can add them to the order for free.
The LEDs I got from DBCustom. I’m pretty sure they are sized 0805/2012. They are cheap if ordered from china. EBay has lots of them.
At first I thought 1206 leds would fit, but as you can see, they are a little big for the switch pads.
Normally it doesn’t matter which switch wire (red or blue) goes to ground and which goes to the “switch signal” part of the driver because it’s a simple contact switch. When you add LEDs, the polarity of the switch wires suddenly become important because the LEDs are polarity sensitive and share a ground wire with the switch.
Since the blue switch wire is a common ground (for 3 things, the switch, the left LED and the right LED) you want to make sure it’s going to a ground source. If it’s not, you need to swap the switches red and blue wires around where they make contact on the driver.
If you switch wires were backward then that might have been what caused your problem. You might have fed 3 or so volts into the switch positive trigger when its designed to only sense ground.
Polarity of the LEDs is also important. They need to be like this.
Now if your using a different momentary switch you’ll need to map out its traces on the pcb. I just used the continuity circuit on my multimeter.
Here is the switch from the FX30 again. All the blue dots go to the blue wire. Red dots to red wire.
