i tried my working trustfire X9 with 2X18350 and see a light for 1 miliseconds then its not working. Did i do something wrong?
i believe the driver only supports up to 4.2v so 1 cell only
- brand: Trustfire
- Model: X9
- Emitter Brand/Type: XM-L T6
- Color BIN: White
- Voltage range: 3-4.2V
- Total Emitters: 1
- Battery Configurations: 1 x 18650 rechargeable battery (included)
- Switch Type: Clicky/Clickie
- Switch Location: Tail-cap
- Modes: 5
- Mode Memory: Hi> Mid > Lo > Fast Strobe> SOS
- Brightness: 1000 lumens maximum brightness (manufacturer rated)
- Lens: Glass Lens
- Reflector: smooth Reflector
- Carrying Strap: Strap Included
- Bonus 18650 AC charger (100-240V AC)
Sorry to hear that you used 2 cells....
My X9 was advertised as being: Digital circuit control voltage: 4.2V-8.4V
It will run on two CR123A or one 18650
It works both ways, however it draws 3.8A on 2xCR123A and gets hot.
It draws 2.8A on one Xtar 2600 and just gets pretty warm.
I am sticking to 18650 in future.
You where gonna swap the driver with a KD 5-mode 8*7135 anyways, not?
Since you probably fried the driver, it's not to bad, you'll swap it anyways.
KD 8*7135 is for 1x 18650 only also, just in case you're thinking of trying the 2x 18650 again ;)
AMC7135 are rated for 6V maximum if I recall correctly.
Then might as well get the pretty much higher performing and fully current regulated STL-V6 already at 46 bucks. 
Can still do shorty mode and be what...10mm shorter than X9 and still stay fully current regulated (constant brightness till LV cut). Even in a tropical country, it managed to stay without dropping the output whatsoever for 2 mins plus. (P60 stuff slides immediately, my Ultrafire XM-L P60 slides for 40% LOL!)
yes, i was already planning to change driver to 2.8A. as i burned up it now, its a must to change it. So, i'm ordering KD driver right now and wait for your driver changing review :) And of course i will be carefull for my future experiments 
Today i tried to demount the driver of X9, but i couldnt desolder its soldering by soldering iron. I don't know maybe its a different kind of glue looking like solder... i tried also demount by cutting soldered parts by utility knife and failed again. Is there any easy way to remove the driver without braking it? And after failed try i pushed the button of the torch and surprisingly its worked. Modes are also working :) But, the brightness is around 1-2 lumen i think :) So, is it still driver problem or something wrong with led ?
Your showing us the picture of the led and round base. The driver is at the other end.
I think he's showing us the 1-2 lumen output, how2
Changed the driver in mine, I hab no problems cutting the solder away.
Cut as many as possible, unscrew the led star and try to push the driver from above.
yes i put the picture to show you the brightness. So, you think the problem is driver?
Nice, I started changing the driver with the KD 8*7135 driver, thinking it would be straightforward. It was easy, apart from the part where the KD driver has a thicker PCB and the positive spring is to long. I shortened the spring, then made it a blob of solder, which still didn't let me close the light down entirely. I think I'll remove the KD driver this weekend and see how I can fix it flush or a little deeper than the pil, so the body can screw down entirely.
I was gonna put a video about the process online, but when I started to muck it up and run out of time, I forgot about the video altogether...
The space you are looking for is in the tailcap, get rid of the plastic spacer and you might want to change the switch to a reverse one like I did, the C8 replacement switches at manafont work fine.
Is this the driver everyone is talking about? Thought it might be helpful to have a link to it here. Also, what is the diameter in mm?
That is the one, diameter is 17mm
Thank you kind sir.
KD has outdated photos for that driver. Mine looked like these ones.
