Does Johnny C’s SRK (werner UI) custom firmware provide for the MCU to receive/ be triggered by a positive signal IE high from the mode switch on its its input pin the Attiny13A?
If so that would save me the extra wire going between the driver and head I currently have to make the 105c work with the usual star momentary custom firmwares that need low from the mode switch.
There are 3 individual conductors in the coil wire going to the head, the LED +, LED - and the switch, the switch in the light head is currently a momentary
I haven’t built these yet, but the SW via is directly connected to the same pin on the ATTiny13 that the SRK driver I built (pin 2)
I honestly believe with the thinness of the conductors in that wire, the full 2.8A will not make it to the emitter, only way to do that is to get a larger conductor cable from the battery/driver box on back to the emitter/head
With this driver and the Star momentary it will give you as many modes as you want, and the PWM flicker on low will no longer be an issue
Ill check Johnny C’s SRK werner UI tomorrow to see if pin2 needs to be pulled high or low or configurable in firmware tomorrow thanks though. Its works with a fourth wire
Right but lots of star firmwares wants one of the stars pulled to ground by a momentary switch to cycle modes like JohnnyCs Star Momentary v1 and if thats true with Johnny C’s SRK werner UI so then a forth wire will have to be added to bring a constant ground to the head so the mode switch in the head has a ground to send back to the MCU pin2 as there is no other ground in the head accept only when the light is on as the led is lit by amc7135 switching negative to the led. I am no familar with dedicated SRK firmware but i know on JohnnyCs Star Momentary the code is looking for its pin2 to be at ground when the mode switch is pressed. Which works fine with a fourth wire.
Anyways appearently i cant make myself clear. i got another headlamp to play with ill try Johnny C’s SRK werner UI and some firmwares to see if any can be cycled with a positive on the switch pin on the mcu to cycle modes so as to use just the stock three wires.
Myled $7 stock fet drivers battery negative is connected to the led directly i.e. constant along with one side of the mode switch and when pressed returns a negative to the MCUs mode sense pin to cause the fet to give positive voltage to positive side of the led.
however as 105c switches negative to the led… the positive side of led remains constant positive. So when the led is off a fourth wire is needed between the head and the driver board.
that remains constant battery negative connected to one side of mode switch (after cutting a trace from the neg of led) so there is negative signal to return momentary switch to send back to pull low the 105c / attiny13a sense pin so it knows to change mode ie turn on.
Cause I was not about to try using only the three wires between the driver head… which then only way i could figure configure the Attiny13a tri-state input to pull down the sense input pin instead of pull up. So the code can be changed to see high from the mode switch as and active/ pressed state.
I see what you are saying, I have run the design by Mattaus to see if it will work…you might be right that it isn’t going to provide the ground on the pin to switch modes
Just thought of something, I wonder if like on the Small Sun ZY-A629 if a 100ohm resistor or whatnot (not sure what the resistance of that resistor on the contact plate is on the head of the A629 between BAT- and SW to provide the voltage source wouldn’t work to provide the ground path?
I like your thinking but not sure dont own that light. Though to your point i was thinking similar but figured that would cause a parasitic current drain through led to back positive. I think might be best to just order a length of 4 conductor coiled headphone cord keeps it simple.
Sorry, more fledgling questions, the charge circuit on this little guy will let me charge a battery inside the host? If yes then how much voltage does it need?
5vdc it handles the CC/CV charge pattern, I have not tested these and from this design to original might take special wiring out firmware (polarity backwards )
