I need a good hunting light I can mount on the rifle scope. I will have to be able to buy red or green lens for it as well.
I want to build something like this but for less money
http://www.fieldandstreamshop.com/p/cyclops-varmint-hunting-scope-light/16cycavb250rdgrnvhvt?camp=CSE:GooglePLA:16CYCAVB250RDGRNVHVT:17235247-FNS:Cyclops
I think Brinyte B158 meets all your needs for weapon mounting, and green/red LEDs. It is popular and easy to mod if you are into that.
http://www.gearbest.com/led-flashlights/pp_390897.html?wid=21
http://www.gearbest.com/led-accessories/pp_572164.html?wid=21
What gun will you be mounting it to? Does anybody have experience with mounting the B158 to a high powered rifle. I’m guessing the red one uses a buck driver so will probably break pretty quick from recoil and possibly the edges of the lens mounting too. There is a reason so few companies list their lights as recoil rated. Potting the driver though may be enough to keep it operating fine, all depends on the gun and mounting in question. I’ve been working on a red zoomie weapon light prototype for a customer and I had never even considered directly mounting it, planning on putting in a recoil sled, in addition to the fully potted driver, fully O-ring mounted lens, and probably O-ring battery bumpers.
It will most likely go on a 17 Rem so the recoil shouldn’t be to bad??
Ah yeah that will probably be fine. And actually I looked and those B158s actually have linear drivers, so it probably won’t be much of an issue anyway, beside the questionably nature of using linear drivers with red LEDs, those puppies probably get toasty, on second though maybe some epoxy potting wouldn’t be a bad idea. And while you’re at it you can stack a few 7135s to get a bit more power out of it. Although then you probably want a new MPCB and at that point might as well go with the Red XP-E2 and dedome it, well you see where this is going. Up to you what you want to put into it.
Most of what you just posted was latin to me….lol
As far as the toasty my plan is to scan with a hand held light and only turn the scope light on when I have to shoot so hopefully it will only be on for short periods of time. If someone else goes with me I may not even have to use it.
I wouldn’t worry about it, I may be a little obsessive about these things.
The B158 is ideal for this- it was designed to be mounted and used this way. Other good choices would be a Convoy C8 with an XP-L hi (might need epoxy potting- easy to DIY) or at the higher end a MaxToch M24 ‘sniper’. That last one was designed by night hunters and no reports of recoil damage yet. It’s range will well exceed your rifle’s 
so it’s a bit overkill (and ain’t cheap either!) If you want there are members here who will build you a custom light for this 
What you need to keep an eye on is how you’re mounting the light- the light’s head has to clear the rest of the stuff without unbalancing the rifle. You might also want to research remote pad switches to make quick operation easy. Plenty out there for you and more experienced folks will chime in here soon I’m sure.
Phil
I ordered a MaxTorch 24 not realizing I needed a red or green light for what I’m doing. Can I convert the sniper to a red led?
I’m sure it’s possible though doing that is beyond my knowledge level. I’ve asked a couple of the guys who helped design the light to drop by here with a better answer for you.
Phil
Anny flashlight can be converted (with less or more complicity) to use red LED but the driver must be modified or replaced (except maybe for PT-54 led ).
Replaceable colored lenses are terrible idea btw
Hi Phil
Robo, gadgetman and I designed the Maxtoch M24 and 2X hunter models with Maxtoch. To add colour to an M24 easiest thing might be colored lenses (perhaps not overly efficient), as I’m not aware you can buy XML2-U4 1A or 1C in red or green led. If not available this as Sirius notes might mean driver change.
My question - do you really need red or green light for hunting? We shoot huge amounts of animals - bunnies etc and few pigs/deer - over 1000 bunnies a night at times. And after experimenting with both red and green lights earlier on we now only use white lights. Utilisation of the white has also given us the opportunity to use best output leds, optimise performance with drivers/dedoming for extreme performance (365k lux/1200+ meters range from a single led lightweight 2X, and 305k lux/1100 meters from smaller M24), and achieve best CRI (tint).
Of course there may be other hunting purposes than ours where coloured light may be good. Robo might have some ideas…
The M24 might be a bit of a project to try and “transform” into what you are wanting to do. It WOULD require a different driver and emitter both you would need the right board for whatever emitter was decided on (XP-G / XM-L /XP-L ) whatever you found for a colored emitter , in the 26mm size (Richard has the Maxtoch boards).
I am sure the reflector would have to be refocused to whatever emitter was used because as Mudgripz mentioned , I am also NOT aware of any XM-L2 in red , green , blue or any other color.
Also you would need to consider that any colored emitter will not have the same kind of output or throw that the regular emitters do , so you will probably need to drive whatever was used fairly hard to get more than 100 or so yards of range from it.
I kind of skimmed through the thread and I saw where a C8 was mentioned to use. That may be a decent option for your purpose with a dedomed R5 emitter (or something similar) and FET driver in it to get a couple of hundred yards of throw out of.
I really cant give a positive answer as I have never tried to build a light with a colored emitter in it. I DO KNOW if you use a colored lens (filter) on them , you loose a lot of the output and throw though , at least with the ones I have tried.
Using a color led vs lens filter is quite a bit better for throw. I have a dedomed xp-e2 red emitter in a b158 zoomable light. It easily illuminates 200 yards with red led.
I would have to agree with you on the LED vs filter , as so far ALL the filters I have tried on lights (3 different lights) reduce the output by at least 40 to 60% as a guess , with the red reducing the output even more than the green filters it seems.
On the other hand with the small Red/Blue/Green emitter zoomie I have , the Red seems to give the best illumination at distance , even though it plays out at around 80 to 100 yards or so of decent light to see with.
Here are some shots with a big dive light I have , showing the light without filters and then with the green and red filters that came with it.
All shots taken at 125 yards from the dead tree with light on high mode.
I second this, except I don’t think the LED needs to be dedomed. Just get the red XP-E2 on a Noctigon and run it at 2.2 amps. Adjust the zoom on the light to fill your scope’s FOV. You will be happy.
Since I’m completely electronic dumb can you send me links on what I need to buy. Once I get everything I’ll get my I.T. guru son-in-law to put it together.
Is this what I need? Cree XLamp XP-E2 Color LED?
One more thing, I can’t seem to find the remote pressure switch for the B158 so I could use some help finding it also.
Thanks
!! Sure you got the decimal point in the right place? 1000?
Damn, what you got against bunnies, anyway? Are they, like, zombie bunnies or something?
You can get red/green XP-Es/XP-E2s that are drop-in happy with C8s. I got a regular white (4300K) XP-E2 pushing only 1A through it, and it’s got some nice reach, and a nice small tight hotspot. Throw in a 1.4A driver, and you’ll have a bit more reach w/o overstressing the LED too much. (You’re trading overall lumens for throwiness by using the smaller chip.)
Still not sure of the utility of monochromatic light vs white, though. If white’s okay, than a M24 (or L2) would be a great of-the-rack choice.