I have a skilhunt D0 defier. To change modes you twist the head loose then tighten. like the olight warrior. It only has two modes 650 and 50lm and strobe is accessible by leaving the head loose and not tightening it.
The problem I have is when I loosen and tighten the head to change modes it goes into a really low mode with very bad PWM no high or low just really low flicker.
Now if when I tighten the head I do it very very lightly it can be ok , but tighten it normally and it has this problem.
Look at the place the positive end of the battery contacts the head. Maybe take a picture if you can.
For a lot of these 2-level lights it’s just set by tightening the head so the battery contacts the first little springy wire (low) and then a little tigher it contacts the second one (high)
Look for 2 contacts there, 2 little arcs of wire or tabs or something slightly flexible — and some dirt/crud/gunk off the threads accumulated in there.
Don’t poke it, don’t wiggle it, don’t even push it with a Q-tip — maybe put a drop of alcohol on it and blow it out gently with compressed air.
If something’s already bent you don’t want to break it.
Patience.
EDIT — FIRST, though, did you clean the threads on the battery tube? Both ends?
You might want to make sure the retaining ring for the tail switch is tight. I’ve had a similar problemwith a Fenix. Sometimes the “twisty” action can cause the battery to loosen up the retaining ring. Check the retaining ring in the head too.
Without pics it’s a list as above, disassemble if possible, clean, and look for anything that looks wonky. (Technical term for tweaked). Probably a combination of small issues.
A light with that kind of behavior could get poor driver soldering… If after cleaning everything and no apparent swinggy part, still lousy function, you should open the head and check directly the driver connection…
I have an old fenix that is now stuck on turbo or strob (head tighten) when loosen the head, only turbo/turbo or turbo or SOS ah ah. low, mid, high gone, baby gone.
