I haven’t seen any, but Nichia make 519A in 6500k. You could go for the most negative bin on those. Maybe see if Hank can get them. No shortage of lights that work with 519A, and you could maybe also try dedoming - might be ~4500-4750k dedomed? (total guess based on 5700k = ~4000 and that the amount of drop goes up with CCT) Still not cool, but might be reasonable since it’ll probably be more negative than anything else close.
Thanks.
The product in the link you provided “Cree XP-L HI V3 1A White 6500K” in “16mm Copper PCB” - I’m assuming that is the LED on the PCB base already and therefore I don’t need to buy another PCB?
However - what about the driver? For example, if I just swap out the SST40 emitter for the XP-L HI emitter without swapping the driver also - how do I know that the driver that was designed to drive the SST40 will also be compatible with the XP-L HI?
Both leds are 3v leds and probably use a similar driver current.
If you post a photo of the driver, someone might be able to identify it.
Yes, “Cree XP-L HI V3 1A White 6500K” in “16mm Copper PCB” is led already soldered on PCB plate and you don’t need nothing more.
Your sst40 driver is completely compatible with xpl-hi and you don’t need to change anything. Moreover it will heat less with xpl-hi than with sst40.
Because its max turbo is around 5.7A at 100% with sst40 and full battery and with the xpl-hi I doubt that it will exceed 4A (rather 3-4A in reality) due to the higher voltage drop on xpl-hi. So it will heat less. All other modes like 1-10-35% will work without change.
Thanks for the advice.
Hopefully the XP-L I’ve emitter I’ve ordered won’t also turn out to be an SST40…
Having thought about it - is it quite common for cheaper LED’s to be high CCT and negative DUV? Some cheap LED flashlights I’d bought from the early 2000’s have a blue/violet tint to them - as does a cheap solar-powered flashlight I recently bought. I don’t know the name of any of the actual emitters in those lights - but budget LED’s from my memory always used to be cool and blue/violet rather than cool and greenish?
Not really, they tend to be positive DUV nowadays because it gives more lumens.
Those early leds were blue/violet because they usually were being overdriven, many modern LEDs will also do that if they’re about to die of overcurrent.
Are the emitters on those lights a 5mm plastic led or do they use modern style SMD leds?
As a rule old cheap flashlights are the zoomie with sometimes unique chineese leds or multi emiiter 5mm plastic indicator LED.
In the zoomie you see direct projection of led and see only direct light of led. Side light witch as a rule is greenish is just lost and zoomie produce slightly violet or blue even beam.
5mm plastic indicator leds are quite white or little blue/violet by itself and don’t have tendency to be greenish.
1 Thank
When you swap the emitter, do you have to apply thermal paste to the underside of the PCB? I don’t have any thermal paste to hand…
You don’t have to but it’s very advisable as it improves thermal transfer, sometimes dramatically. Even the cheapest thermal paste will do. Use sparingly, just the thinnest layer is enough.
I think there will be some old thermal paste under the stock plate with led witch you can reuse.
As an extreme option, you can even use toothpaste. Although it will dry out, it’s better than nothing.
Also, when installing new mcpcb, you need to grind off the burrs if there are any to ensure tight contact with the pill.
Silicone grease should work ok as a thermal paste and won’t dry out. Probably wouldn’t want it getting on silicone insulated wires though.
Does anyone know the tint of the Cree XM-L2?
Do they tend to be greenish or rosy? Or does it depend on the CCT? For example, are the 3000K bins rosy and the 6500K greenish?
Use enough minus green and any emitter can be rosy. I know, filters aren’t ideal, but remember all these LEDs we’re talking about here are filtered, albiet on the phosphor layer.
So, unfiltered, is the XM-L2 greenish in any CCT?
I don’t think I currently have any XM-L2 lights but I’m sure some can be greenish. Look up the tint bin graph for those.
https://flashlightwiki.com/Cree
You’d want a bin that’s “below” the faint dotted black line on the graph.
Let’s repeat the basics, look at the table with cree color and tint labeling of the leds where you can see that:
BUT cree xm-l2 have very significant tint shift depends on the angle of emitting light. Sight light of the led tends to be greenish or at least warmer than direct light and has different tint.
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In the reflector, especially shallow, this sight light is focused in the hotspot. So you get warmer and greener hotspot and colder spill.
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under the TIR lense or using VERY deep reflector (like original convoy S2) all the light of the led is mixing and you get beam with even tint. Repeat once again: