New Boruit B50

Hi guys. I just spotted that interesting new model Boruit B50 on Ali store. That model is 21700 and with integrated USB-C charger. Also if LED emitters are original cree that will be very good. I think it is interesting model for modding purposed. The UI is total shit at all. But will be interesting with that dual switch support to make it swapped two Anduril drivers which to control them individually. Also it is possible to remove 2 of XPG-LEDs with reds one and control them. Or I have another idea for tint mixing like in BLF LT. What do you think about that.

too much bling, too little sense, there is absolutely no need for 4 leds with tiny tir if they were different colors, then maybe, but not in current form. not to mention weight, a very important factor for a headlamp.
it would be a lot better if it was 1 main led, and 2 side leds, flood and red. in slimmer, lighter body

Thanks for advice. Also read in customer comments that it is about 140g, yes it is little heavy, but I think it is interesting host for modding.

does look like it has potential for modding. i’m looking for a 21700 headlamp.
what are the emitter temperatures? i see B50, and B35. 5000K and 3500K?

ah, gotcha. thanks :slight_smile:

[edit] i’ve been a typo monster lately. it’s B39, not B35 :person_facepalming:

found a video (Russian?) where he shows the innards of the B39 (3 LED).

he has another video on the B50

1 piece PCB with LEDs and Driver.
don’t know if i’m ready for hotplate LED swaps. :open_mouth: what voltage are these emitters?

you are welcome. i’d be tempted if these were 5000K, but @ 6500K it’s too blue for my tastes.

You could in theory swap the center emitter for a sst40 and the side ones for xpl or LH351D’s for better tint and maybe a small improvement in outout, but don’t expect huge increases since they’re being driven the same. The mcpcb has all the driver bits on it so you need a hotplate for reflowing and be extra careful not to dislodge any other smd components. The B39 would be the better one for modding with fewer emitters.

if one was going to swap them, what voltages do these emitters run at?

Xpg2 and xml are not terrible with moderate vf. Xml is about the same as a XML2. You could stick any 3535 or 5050 footprint led on the board, but you’d get similar outputs regardless of which led you put on. The difference would be something like a sst40 or xml3, or xpl2 which have lower vf than xpg2 or xml.

thanks Sirstinky. :slight_smile:

Shame about that design. The thing’s no good without a driver swap (for UI reasons). And I’m sure the MCPCB isn’t up to our standards, etc…
Gonna have to stick to the D10/D10S for now.

I think sofirn is doing what these guys seem to be doing .. that's going half way towards a better design and then crapping out before completion . It's like they 're running out of money for the project then they stall out and cheap out on important parts of the design . .. The sofirn D25 light upgrades feel like the same issue ..When the going gets tough ,, they bolt or halfass it .

I don’t think anything can compare to the D10 (in that form factor anyway) for modding. Driver swaps are a pain, but swapping the led is crazy easy, plus tir options.

I just wish the thermal adhesive on the back of the MCPCB was weaker. I had a terrible time pulling it out of my D10!
Did you have any strategies for doing so without stripping/snapping the leads? Would hitting it with a hair dryer help soften it?

Sirstinky, when you feel pain- you learning. ;))

For sure! And expensive. I’ve dropped around $50 on killed xhp70.2 for the blasted Quarantine project :weary: hopefully the weaker batteries and added resistance helps keep the led alive.

I tried heat and that didn’t work. I tried that on another preinstalled mcpcb on a pill before and had to get it uncomfortably hot with a lighter before it was easy to work loose. I ended up using blunt needle nose pliers and just twisting the mcpcb. If you can slip a flexible blade around the outside edge of the mcpcb and pry up a little, that helps work it loose. I desoldered the mcpcb leads first and tucked them out of the way best I could. I ended up damaging the insulation on the + wire so I did some 1/16” heatshrink on it. It will give up before you do!

Oof, thanks for sharing your experiences.
Heatshrink is a good idea! I’ll have to buy some to supplement my stash of modding supplies.

@ Serlite:

I’ve found these dental tools of great help for the nudging. link