New build inspired by the most inspirational member here. OL. Updated 26.3.17 post 235. One light has been completed.

This may sound like a bit of a jumble but thats the way my mind is at the moment with the latest update from Justin.
Justin has a wish for two different lights that he would love to have built for sale to the general public.
One was from memory, an XHP70 led, RMM built driver, LUM 5-90 reflector and 2S 4P battery configuration (think I have that around the right way. Richard has been trying to educate me). A Flash Light Lens lens will also be used.
This light will be my interpretation of these specs using techniques that Justin may use and my own abilities, or lack of to build this light. :slight_smile:
There is no time frame to this build and I’ll update it as needed.

The first change to the spec is I will more than likely use a battery configuration of 3S 3P. The reason for this is so that a higher current can be kept up to the led for a constant output for a longer period. The XHP70 is voltage hungry the harder it is driven
Thanks to the testing by djozz we can see here that the XHP70 needs nearly eleven volts at 10 amps. Post 576.

I’ve roped Richard in to build me a driver and so far he has been exceptionally patient with my inability to describe to him what I want. I was thinking of getting RBD to decipher my lack of correct descriptions to Richard as he is a gun at being able to do that, thanks RBD for the help in the past, but I think we have got there now. It does worry me though as I have not heard from him. Richard, in the last ten minutes. :stuck_out_tongue:

This is the type of information that Richard has been deciphering.

The battery configuration was a bit of a dilemma for awhile with lots of drawings happening to try and work out what would be best with spacing etc. I also tossed up with the idea of using a battery carrier but at this point probably wont.

The deign of the light is almost complete as can be seen below. As you can see theres lots of work still to be carried out. :person_facepalming: I’m sure most of you know what DNF stands for. Please dont ask my lovely wife. :slight_smile:

Todays update 27.6.16.

The cover was pulled of the power hacksaw, the oil can put to use and the 2’’ bar stock was cut to length.

These were faced off and turned to 50mm in diameter from 2’’ as the finish was not that good.

As the battery tube will be drilled out on the lathe held in the four jaw chuck to allow for the offset a way of marking out the three holes had to be made. This is a sleeve that will slide over the end of the battery tube to mark out the battery location holes.

The three holes were accuratlye machined in the mill. Why did I not use the mill to machine the battery holes or just mark them out? Simple, its not big enough, limited in height and travel.

The drill used to drill the holes in the jig was sharpened on the shank end to a point.

And used to centre pop the holes in the battery tube.

Normally when i build a light from scratch I build the head first then the tailcap and finally the battery tube. As the head cannot be built until I know what driver is going in the battery tubes are being machined first. My first backward built light. :slight_smile:

Update 5.7.16.

Just a little explanation on how the holes in the battery tube were marked out and positioned in the lathe.
The original jig I made was for 50mm diameter bar which two battery tubes are. When I screwed up the other two I decided to make them again from 60mm diameter bar.
How to use the same jig? Wrap the two items together with a piece of A4 paper with the jig upside down and mark the holes.

This leaves you with the end of the work piece with three holes marked out on it.

This is then placed in the four jaw chuck in the split tube made previously to prevent damage and the jaws moved around until the hole lines up with the centre. Most times when the lathe is switched on the centre pop is running out slightly so adjustments are made until the centre pop does not run out.
You can see how far offset the work piece is by looking at the jaws of the chuck. This will be repeated another eleven times to do all four battery tubes.

Heres two that were prepared earlier. I just wanted to add a bit of cooking speak in. :stuck_out_tongue:

Update 19.7.16.

Lifes been busy around the house lately so work has progressed slowly.
The four battery tubes have now all been bored so the next step was to build the negative end plates. With some input from Justin the following is the result.
Copper was chosen as the springs could be soldered to it and I just happened to have an off cut of 1 1/2’’ waiting to be used up.
A spot face was machined in three places to locate the djozz springs that will be used in the correct positions.

Not having a 10mm slot mill to machine the spot faces a1/4’’ slot mill was used to machine the depth to 30 thou and then a 10mm drill bit ground flat, was used to finish of the spot faces.

To locate the end plate in the battery tube in the correct position 1/8’’ brass rod was deemed suitable to be used as guides. These will also be soldered into the end plate’s. 3mm holes were drilled into the end plates for these locating dowels.

The nearly finished being machined end plates.

The 1/8’’ dowels themselves being machined up.

And finally for this update an end plate with the locating dowels.

Update 8.8.16.

Things have been a little slow on this light lately after I made a mistake on the engineering in the way I was going to join the battery tubes together, bolt pattern and the pin locator holes for the negative plate. This will be rectified by remaking the negative plates from a larger diameter material so the dowel PCB will be the same as the through holes to join the two battery tubes together and will be around 8mm in diameter instead of the 1/8’’ as originally planned as the cap screws, which I dont have yet, trying to find them cheaper, have a head diameter of 8mm.
Hope that all made sense.

The new plate against the old negative plate.

To drill the holes out for the through bolts and negative plate dowels I set the battery tube up clamped to a v block and tried to use my dial indicator to get two holes parallel. I was just not happy as I could not get consistent readings, though admittedly it was only by a few thousands of an inch.
Not one to normally purchase cheap tooling the purse strings at the moment only allowed me to buy the cheapest test dial indicator I could find. Its on its way from China so hopefully it will do what I want it to.

The set up.

Meanwhile back on the PC I’ve been messing around with ideas on what shape it should be. I have decided on one now to see if I can make it happen.

Updates to the build.
Post 48 and down a couple.
Post 87.
Post 98.
Post 105.
Post 117.
Post 120.
Post 128.
Post 136
Post 149
Post 184
Post 188



Curiosity = Piqued

I will be watching

I had similar thoughts reading his post and have hopes for the 4th annual contest for which your project would make an excellent entry.

Turn the batteries into a battery pack? You would need a hobby charger to charge.

having seen your other work .I know this will be special.

Cool! I’ll be watching this :sunglasses:

My interest is piqued as well and will also be looking on wondering what to do next. l’m open to any suggestions. There is this on offer for any good suggestions. :beer:
OL could no doubt hook up a charging system but unless he comes around to wield a soldering iron for me this more than likely wont happen. :frowning:
The annual light comp build RBD? You have a fair idea on what is happening there. No one knows this so best keep it a secret. RBD has inspired me to build something which he knows about that I’m really not good at doing. This could well be a massive failure but I’m sure he wont let that happen :slight_smile:
I may just subby some machining out to you lostheplot. I have your number and know where you live. :stuck_out_tongue:

I believe this light will be a doozie!
Tip: measure twice, cut once.

subbed,. I have been planning to get 3x18350 inside a tube… can’t wait for updates, good luck (not that you need any)

One of my very small collection has 3 x 18650 in this configuration and the resulting diameter is very hand-friendly.


Good tip! I usually find myself measuring once, cutting twice, just to find the darn thing is still too short :stuck_out_tongue:

Go Go Go!!! If anyone can do this it is YOU!!!
Anxious to see the end result!!

The Courui D01 has a tube holding 3 cells.
I have seen mods where two of those were used for the exact setup you want. (And it has a big reflector as well)
So this could be a starting point?


, but of tears joy and then a big .

Very kind of you and I hope it is for the contest. I am touched deeply by your doing this and it is much appreciated. I always wanted to see a nicely finished light done properly for the LUM 5-90 and the XHP70. They make a thrower that kills anything in the way, especially at 10 amps or more. I am sure Richard will make you a great driver for it.

Remember, I love Knurling and polished rings.


Thanks for the comments guys. Yes I do stuff up measurements. I dont know who let the cat out of the bag but thanks. :person_facepalming:
The light will hopefully run on nine cells so l’d need three battery tubes joined together if I was to use battery tubes from other lights which would be to expensive for my meagre budget. I think what I will do is drill three holes with a couple of mm’s between each hole in tube around 110mm long and join them together to make one tube. On the other hand one tube could be 2 cells long and the other one cell long. That would allow it to run on either 6 cells or 9 cells. Decisions decisions. :frowning:

Justin it warms my heart to see you here. :slight_smile: :beer:
Hopefully I can make this just a little different that I can incorporate the OL lathe technique (but I’d have to use my lathe :stuck_out_tongue: ) and a few other ways of doing things you are famous for into this light.

I’m sure whatever you build will come as a big surprise Steve.