Hi Guys, newbiee here, i just got my EDC18 today and after playing with it some time, I’m unable to select the turbo by any means, I double check and the battery is good its a 35E , I also checked is not in muggle mode, I also did the factory reset many times without success, also did the temp calibration, but no luck
i get a low output beam coming of the 3 leds, and I can ram up or down a little bit but no more than that.
Any idea of what is going on?
low battery?
bad connection …?
loosen head and end cap
put end cap on tightly
insert cell
now tighten head
Thanks for joining the gang, jacan!
There you go, i have removed the back cap but have not tried with the front one, everything back to normal, I cant believe how I didn’t think of that, how a loose connection could do that
Wonderfull, I how have a fully working EDC18, this is my first real (“expensive”) flashlight.
the edc18 and fw3a have this ‘known’ quirk, back cap and head torque have to be JUST RIGHT
after you get the back right, tape it, and from now on change battery by removing the head
it may be in the instruction manual by now, i don;t know
wle
The instruction to tighten the back first and then only change batteries from the front applies to the FW3A only. The EDC18 can be opened or closed from either end.
is that consistent with what he said though?
he said he removed and replaced the back cap, and that made it work
wle
Lumintop manual tells to change battery from the front, though…
I had similar issues with turbo and higher modes with some batteries (flat top). Then with the battery that previously worked fine as well.
And then poorly soldered top spring felt off,… I resolder it and now the light works fine. But sadly “premium” feel of Lumintop lights is lost with the first one I have.
I enjoy the light anyway, but most likely won’t get back to this brand anytime soon.
EDC18 has a back cap, a tube, and a head. This a conventional configuration. There are hundreds of lights from different manufacturers using the same setup. It does not matter which side you tighten first or change the battery from. All that matters is both sides are tight and the contact surfaces are clean.
In contrast, the FW3A is a lot more finicky due to its inner tube design. In theory you can change the battery from either end of an FW3A, but in reality it just seems to work better replacing it from the front.
Also, early version FW3As did not have a switch retention ring. If you changed the battery from the back, the switch guts might fall out. And if you change from the back, the inner tube might fall out.
Yep, I know origin of front battery replacement and that this restriction shouldn’t apply to lights designed similar way to EDC18. But it looks like Lumintop disagrees or doesn’t care to change that in the manual.
I wouldn’t focus on the way that battery was put into the light in case of further issues, that’s why I mentioned quality issues with the spring (in my case).