I dislike the plastic brackets and have purchased the HS20 headbands.
Are these made of thick rubber?
Where did you get this picture of my modded headlamp from? :-)
I looked it up, with all accessories it costs around $50+, I don’t see what’s special about it.
I find this even on some Olight headlamps that cost much more, the popular Cyansky HS6R also has no glass. At this price point it doesn’t really bother me, just don’t throw it in the pocket with your keys.
I find mode memory for all would take away what I enjoy so much about this headlamp. I understand that no headlamp will fit every user’s use. I wanted this too, until I started to use it more and found I absolutely love it as is. If you want to be certain it turns on in low level, just unscrew the tailcap and tighten to reset everything to low.
I’m a farmer and hunter, so I find it extremely useful to have turbo saved on the spotlight mode. I can set the floodlight to medium and then effortlessly switch between the two with one rotation. The UI how you want it would be messy. The Sofirn HS42 is this way and I find myself holding and clicking too much when I’m constantly switching LEDs.
Please no. Stepped levels provide reliable outputs and runtime for a night out. Smooth ramping is guess work. Maybe dual UIs, but definitely not smooth ramping instead.
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Yes, the silicone headband mounts, I find them more comfy. Probably depends on the shape of one’s forehead though. The ArmyTek plastic brackets are terribly uncomfortable for me, and yet Marco from 1Lumen mentioned it was comfy in his review.
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Same here. I wore my expensive Armytek headlamp on my head for 2-3 hours, it hurt quite a bit where it was pressing on my head. In comparison, with my cheap lamps with silicone/rubber holders, I worked many working days, with sweat under my forehead at most.
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Well, mine just snapped as well, but to be fair I attached/detached it about 100x times beforehand. Usually a headlamp like this remains in the bracket.
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After exactly 3 weeks on the table in daylight (winter!), 676 mAh could be recharged, fully charged beforehand of course.
When mine arrives, I suspect I’ll be storing it with the tailcap unscrewed then!
If you don’t need the IR feature, you could always slap some electrical tape over the sensor. Should help limit the parasitic drain.
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Firstly, have you used a DMM to make sure your unit doesn’t have higher than normal parasitic drain, and checked a different cell? I’ve checked the voltage of thousands of Sofirn cells (retailer) and found quite a few have high self discharge.
676mAh would come to 2.68mA drain over 3 weeks for a period of 12 hours a day, which is far too high from my lux meter measurements.
3 weeks = 504 hours.
Sitting by the window in daylight = 0.46mA drain x 252 hours (12 hrs a day) = 115.92mAh
At night = 0.03mA x 252 hours (12 hrs a day) = 7.56mAh
Total = 123.48mAh for 3 weeks.
If one were to sit it outside on a cloudy day the drain would be 1.04A. Total = 269.64mAh
I don’t use the Sofirn cells, I don’t trust them. I only use Samsung cells, which can recharge about 10 mAh after two months of storage, so self-discharge is irrelevant. The HS21 has an indisputable resting consumption.
It would be interesting to see what the drain is when the light sensor is taped. I did tape it after reading reports as I don’t use it anyway, but haven’t verified if it really cuts the drain significantly.
Well, 676mAh is still far too high for 3 weeks of no usage, much more than what’s possible according to my current measurements, unless it’s faulty and drawing more than normal. Without a DMM for testing there’s no way for you to conclude that it’s a blanket issue to that extreme.
676mAh would be 2.68mA draw over 12 hours per day and that would have to be directly facing the sun’s direction the whole time, plus it would need to be a sunny day for 3 weeks straight and just as bright over the 12 hours.
Even if it was 3mA drain, the sensor would have to be facing the sun’s direction for the entire 12 hours, and just as bright. Now it’s possible.
If it’s blacked out the drain would remain at 0.03mA. Tbh, covering it isn’t really needed. I sell these and have very strict testing before selling on to customers, if it was a concern I wouldn’t sell it. If you look at my above measurements, the draw isn’t much.
You could use bluetac, that would be far better than using tape and it leaving behind a sticky mess. Stick a tiny piece inside the hole. Did that to the Klarus X1 to stop the light sensor working.
That 0.46mA is if placing it right beside a window with the sensor facing the window. With standard room lighting at night the drain remains at 0.03mA, even if I aim the sensor at the light above my desk, it remains unchanged at 0.03mA.
@koef3 got almost 2 mA at one point.
Still isn’t going to see 2mA for 24 hrs a day though is it. Not really a concern.
One thing to keep in mind is not to point the IR sensor upwards facing the sky, the HS21 wouldn’t usually be stored in this orientation, so sitting horizontal is going to be the most accurate reading. For 2mA did you face it to the sky/sun?
Reported the IR Sensor issue to Barry, who then reported it to their Engineers who’re now looking at improving it.
I have a ready solution for Barry’s engineers :-) - but they know about it already: