New Sofirn SP33 V3 !!

d_t_a · 2020-06-29T10:56:55.000Z

bts:

Placed an order for the V3 only to find out it was using FET drivers. Am buying based on Zeroair review on the V2 which has regulated output , the high(approx 1200lumens) maintain flat regulation for 2hrs which is impressive. The place I bought only hv v3 in stock. :(. Anyone actually do a runtime test on High? How long do they last?

Note that the old v2 (“2500” lumens) is the one using XHP50.2 6-volt LED and regulated output.
The newer v2 (“3000” lumens) looks physically the same as the “old v2”, but now uses XHP50.2 3-volt LED and use FET (but seems to be limited a bit in the max output compared to the FET of v3).

Tom_E · 2020-07-11T02:31:03.000Z

Posted this in another SP33 V3.0 review thread:

Interesting fyi, I added 22 AWG wire bypasses on the springs (short ones in the center of the spring), and got ~ 25% boost in lumens and candela.

Measuring amps at the tail, on a charged up 40T the amps went up from 14.7A to 16.5A, but that's only seeing the bump of the bypass on the driver side because my amp measurements are with the tailcap off. I did the before/after tests with both a 40T cell and a red Dolidada 5500 26650 and saw about the same percent bump. These springs are not high performance, accept maybe for their thickness but they are not low resistance. The bypass on the tailcap spring probably made a greater difference in amps based on the lumens/throw measurements.

"nnnn-nnnn" below is "at start - at 30 secs"

Before After

Sam 40T 4390-3890, 32.5 kcd 5340-4790, 40 kcd

Dolidada 3530-3270, 27 kcd 4450-4180, 35.5 kcd

cm64 · 2020-07-11T06:13:53.000Z

Tom E:

Posted this in another SP33 V3.0 review thread:

Interesting fyi, I added 22 AWG wire bypasses on the springs (short ones in the center of the spring), and got ~ 25% boost in lumens and candela.

Measuring amps at the tail, on a charged up 40T the amps went up from 14.7A to 16.5A, but that’s only seeing the bump of the bypass on the driver side because my amp measurements are with the tailcap off. I did the before/after tests with both a 40T cell and a red Dolidada 5500 26650 and saw about the same percent bump. These springs are not high performance, accept maybe for their thickness but they are not low resistance. The bypass on the tailcap spring probably made a greater difference in amps based on the lumens/throw measurements.

“nnnn-nnnn” below is “at start - at 30 secs”

Before After

Sam 40T 4390-3890, 32.5 kcd 5340-4790, 40 kcd

Dolidada 3530-3270, 27 kcd 4450-4180, 35.5 kcd

Hey Tom E How about a couple of pics of the bypass as to what you did ? Sounds interesting.

Tom_E · 2020-07-11T11:25:13.000Z

Can't right now but standard bypasses, I've done dozens, taken/posted pics of many.

SP70:

FT03:

Q8:

cm64 · 2020-07-11T13:07:47.000Z

@Tom E
Thanks

Unheard · 2020-07-11T14:03:40.000Z

Thanks from me, too. Difference is, the SP33 spring is not soldered. But then, one cannot accidentally desolder it.

Tom_E · 2020-07-11T14:35:21.000Z

Yeah, but I've added bypasses on many unsoldered springs and always get a boost. I do cleanup the contact surfaces though, clean with isop. alcohol then applied a light coating of NO-OX-ID. Dunno for sure it makes a difference though. Was think'n of using 20 AWG, could have, but the 22 is easier to work with and hopefully should last longer with better flexibility. These are classic budget springs, unlike Hank's lights or FireFlies. Even the Haikelite's and the better Astrolux's use double spring for their high amp setups.

It's just something to look out for. They got a high performance driver in there so I knew there had to be something else suppressing the amps/output. They got a nice MCPCB, so for high amps, it's got everything except the springs.

Actually look'n at my notes, I got a nice bump on the EC01, though not as dramatic, maybe ~15%.

xevious · 2020-08-16T21:29:58.000Z

Tom E:

Can’t right now but standard bypasses, I’ve done dozens, taken/posted pics of many.

SP70:

FT03:

Q8:

Interesting. I don’t see a way to do this on the SP33v3… There is no switch in the tail cap so there’s no exposed circuit there.

Tom_E · 2020-08-16T22:03:17.000Z

I added a bypass on the Sp33V3 tail spring. You can pop out the spring - usually just a good pull gets them out - there's nothing holding it down except for a slight recess at the bottom. The you solder a wired from the top (usual) to the bottom rung of the spring, keeping the bottom rung flush on the bottom. I've done many of this type as well.

Scallywag · 2020-08-17T02:37:47.000Z

Tom E:

I added a bypass on the Sp33V3 tail spring. You can pop out the spring - usually just a good pull gets them out - there’s nothing holding it down except for a slight recess at the bottom. The you solder a wired from the top (usual) to the bottom rung of the spring, keeping the bottom rung flush on the bottom. I’ve done many of this type as well.

I assume it’s not much different from bypassing the “springs sprung into a tailcap” seen on many E-switch lights. I recently was briefly confused by it on my Boruit D10.

Another goal I’ve had with my more recent spring bypasses has been to try to fill-in the top hole of the spring, when practical. I noticed MTNE drivers, if purchased with a bypassed spring pre-installed, are done this way and I like it for the possibility of reduced contact resistance. I know if I really cared I should put a brass or copper contact pad at the top instead…

Tom_E · 2020-08-17T12:02:24.000Z

Yeah, I haven't used the buttons on springs, but I do try to fill in top hole. I'll use a small file to flatten out the top. Also for a tail spring like this, there's usually extra solder bumping out on the bottom and I'll file that out smooth, flush with the last rung, as well. Solder is easy to file down.

xevious · 2020-08-17T16:19:15.000Z

Tom E:

I added a bypass on the Sp33V3 tail spring. You can pop out the spring - usually just a good pull gets them out - there’s nothing holding it down except for a slight recess at the bottom. The you solder a wired from the top (usual) to the bottom rung of the spring, keeping the bottom rung flush on the bottom. I’ve done many of this type as well.

Interesting. So essentially this is an additional electrical pathway on the spring… and somehow this provides a little power boost. Very curious. It makes me wonder why flashlight makers don’t fashion a spring with a wire connector like this by default, so they can claim even better specs.

Unheard · 2020-08-17T17:10:10.000Z

xevious:

Interesting. So essentially this is an additional electrical pathway on the spring… and somehow this provides a little power boost. Very curious. It makes me wonder why flashlight makers don’t fashion a spring with a wire connector like this by default, so they can claim even better specs.

It’s handwork, it reduces spring travel, solder may scratch the battery terminal. Many reasons. Maybe better to use double springs, don’t know. I’ve seen a nice solution by putting some copper wool into the spring. If it was copper wool, that is.

Edit: I’ve seen a Sofirn with bypassed springs, IIRC.

Tom_E · 2020-08-17T17:31:52.000Z

It's all about resistance to maximize amps. On buck/boost or linear amp controlled drivers, usually makes no difference. Some lights are shipped with spring bypasses, some with double springs. If you unstretch the coil of a spring, you got a long wire. Steel is a very poor conductor so the electricity only flows through the super thin coating/ Beryllium copper springs are much better than the vast majority of stock springs.

There's other conditions, such as a highly compressed spring has less length to flow through, etc. I've seen bypasses make little to no difference.

FET drivers benefit the most, but of course if you swap a high performance FET driver into a light, the stock spring may not be designed to handle the high amps -- so, the bypass prevents the spring from a melt down.

jeff51 · 2020-08-17T23:10:44.000Z

Tom E:

Yeah, but I’ve added bypasses on many unsoldered springs and always get a boost.

How much extra output do you think you got out of the SP70?
Ever done an L6? I’m surprised how much more output I get from the SP70 vs the L6, considering they both use the same batteries and LED.
All the Best,
Jeff

Scallywag · 2020-08-17T23:32:57.000Z

jeff51:

Tom E:

Yeah, but I’ve added bypasses on many unsoldered springs and always get a boost.

How much extra output do you think you got out of the SP70?
Ever done an L6? I’m surprised how much more output I get from the SP70 vs the L6, considering they both use the same batteries and LED.
All the Best,
Jeff

I own both - Stock, the L6 doesn’t have a FET driver, which is where bypasses give you real gains. Additionally, it used to come with XHP70. Knowing Simon, they may come bypassed these days - he’s no stranger to bypassed springs, at least.
The SP70, despite our best efforts at communicating the importance, did not come with goo BeCu springs, nor bypasses, nor doubled springs. But it did come with a FET! (And even there, I recall DBCustom getting an increase from a better FET.)

When the amps are high enough, I even bypass BlueSwordM springs… like on my Supfire M6, 3xXHP50.2 3V build.

Tom_E · 2020-08-18T02:58:35.000Z

Yea, I bypass Blue springs as well. Just can't do a mod without a good bypass

Scallywag · 2020-08-18T03:23:14.000Z

Tom E:

Yea, I bypass Blue springs as well. Just can’t do a mod without a good bypass

They’re so easy to solder to!! They’re begging for it.

rockfanatic · 2020-09-03T06:14:57.000Z

hello, i made a short video of SP33, please welcome

xevious · 2020-09-03T14:46:01.000Z

I will be posting a review of the SP33v3 this weekend, if all goes well with my schedule. It’s a terrific flashlight, well thought out for the most part, and a true “pocket rocket.”