Hello all. I was hoping to get some advice on building an M21A build with parts from MtnElectronics. Summary question: which driver would I need?
What I’m trying to make - I have a Klarus XT21X which I would really like to replicate the beam profile and claimed 100 lumen/600cd mode (as well as the corresponding run time for that mode). Second priority would be 3000+ lumen high/turbo (only to be run for a few seconds at a time). Third priority would be a FF mode of 1 or less lumens… but if necessary, I’ll take 15 lumens or less. Being able to switch between mode memory and no memory would be nice if I have 4 or more modes (3 modes preferred)… I prefer mode memory for 4+ modes and no mode memory for 3 and under modes. I’m happy with the reverse clicky for this build.
Components - I was planning on getting 1. Convoy M21A, 2. C8+ OP reflector, 3. XHP 70.2 N4 5000K LED on DTP MCPCB (6V 20mm), and a high amp 21700… and thermal paste.
My question is, for a single 21700 and “What I’m trying to make” points, which driver would I need? I’m hoping to get everything form one big order from MtnElectronics if possible.
*Background… I have played around with soldering wires on cheap store bought flashlights (although I need a new soldering iron, too). My soldering skills should be OK for this. I’ve also swapped pills and related components on some S2+'s I recently received so I have a little familiarity of what I need to do.
I might also add, any suggested soldering iron’s? I also find it hard to find soldering components locally for electronics. The last time I tried to track down particular flux and solder for electronics, I found one store within 50 miles that had some… none of their other branches near me. Most of the stuff around here is for plumbing.
I think I might just see if I can order all of the soldering components off of Amz Please remind me of what I’ll need, for example:
Type of solder
Type of flux (including the type for cleaning the tip)
It looks like mtn doesn’t have many options for a 6v boost driver. This is the only one I see. The firmware is guppy3drv which has a lot of mode options (see link on product page).
It’s a 17mm driver and the host you want takes a 20mm, so you’d need an adapter (I’ve never used these or your host so I’m not certain it will work).
A better soldering iron has been the best investment I’ve made for my modding. Here’s the one I bought:
QUICKO T12 Soldering Iron Station OLED Display Temperature Controller Electronic Welding Iron Tips Handle Aluminum Alloy Case Power Equipments 110V T12-K Sting (SET1) Amazon.com
I also got a cheap assortment of “T12” tips to go with it.
For solder I just use a lead-free, rosin-core, low-temp solder wire. I use an old sponge (dry) to clean the tip and try to keep it tinned. I’m no expert but I don’t generally have problems with soldering when modding flashlights. Mtn sells lead free solder that I imagine will work fine.
The one tip I always give to newbies is to make sure your solder blobs do not contact the underside of the reflector or you could cause a short and destroy the driver.
Lastly, I’m worried about whether that host can outright use a 70.2 in the reflector. I think you’ll be fine as long as you can get a centering ring/gasket that’s made for a 7mm LED and 9mm reflector. I don’t see anything on the site so I’d suggest emailing mtn amd asking Richard if he has anything that will work.
For the M21A you need a 20mm boost driver, you will have a hard time fitting the XHP70.2 into the M21A reflector so you may need a new reflector with a bigger opneing, you can use the gaskets to make it fit but its a bit meh.
For the soldering iron get a USB soldering they are just easier and more versatile. I have the Pinecil it runs of USB wall adapter or power bank using either fast charge or USB PD protocol. Check out the HS-01Soldering Iron on Aliexpress if you can wait for the shipping it has good review.
The Pinecil has the option of running Iron OS which is just firmware for soldering irons that is community made, i put it on both my TS100 and my Pinecil. So far i do not see support for the HS-01.
What ever solder you buy it should have the flux in the solder like rosin core 60/40, use the solder to clean the tip in the tip cleaner.
The first time you power up an iron with a new tip, put solder on it as soon as it get hot enough to melt it. Get a good amount all the way around the tip. No gaps! If not, the tip can oxidize and will never hold solder.
Thanks for all of the tips everyone! I think I might have to rethink my options on hosts, led, and where to purchase. I think I’ll work on modifying what I have in the mean time… as in in a couple of weeks; the next time I have a couple off days. In the meantime, to save money I’ll get a new tip for my old soldering iron (Weller WLC100 - 40W ) and some soldering supplies.
I should probably try modifying the second S2+ I have to get a little more experience (since I’m very happy with the other one). I’m also thinking of swapping out the Pokelit Nichia 219B with the led/MCPCB in my old LF E series head (seem to have the same size MPCPB) and adding a 17mm driver (I’m pretty sure that’s the size in the LF E series heads. They are both in my “don’t mind destroying if I mess up” collection.
I’m thinking on shelving this project and playing around with what I have in the meantime. I have a drill press (at another location), but I was hoping for a project that was more turn-key. Glad you were able to find that reflector!
They do have 9090 gaskets for a 9mm reflector hole.
No idea if they’d work with the dome on the HDs though. Be a lot easier to make something work with a flat 7070
I use MG chemicals 63/37 no-clean solder off amazon and the same flux, mg chemicals no-clean. Love the stuff. Expected it to be garbage, only thing I ever use now. I’ve never tried Kester though.
Ever try a die grinder? It’s a Dremel but the bits are twice the size. Ive been using that with a conical burr or stone to do this kinda stuff. Really hard to mess it up. I got a cordless ryobi one for free last year, not as much torque as my air powered ones, but it’s quieter, and way more than you need for this. It looks like a ryobi drill but spins like a dremel. Would recommend
Ah, me too! Running whatever firmware comes as stock and using my 100w dell USB-C laptop charger. Still need to make up a DeWalt battery adapter to round jack so I can run it wirelessly.
Nice enough iron, my hakko is an overall better soldering experience, but if I were starting over, I’d get the Pinecil, and find a good quality stand and wirewool/sponge combo tip cleaner.
